DaveCarrera4

We do have an economical 2" all electric kit. Along with the rennlist discount; perfect for those wanting to keep the wing functionality on a budget. Plus no more worries of failure. You can read about the dozen plus modes of the hydraulic system failure at our website. On our Facebook page you can follow development of a new Carrera GT eRam kit as well.

Kevinmacd

So you are disregarding the Porsche engineers and safety warning! I for one am not in position to argue with Porsche! Care to cite your references on downforce?

"02996ttx50

yes! you should add that lol. it sounds as if you have identified the cause of the failure.

i have in the last 7 years refilled the rams on this particular car and re-bled the system successfully on two separate occasions, both immediately after noticing "uneven"
spoiler deployment. if treated as an occasional "maintenance repair"? then assuming no other component parts have failed? i see no reason not to believe they will continue to operate as they should indefinitely. bear in mind, that porsche has a "step by step" procedure ( and available white paper ) for replenishing the missing hydraulic fluid. though attempting it, is not for the faint of heart. at least for the "first time". it can be a daunting process, equalizing "both" sides.

but if successful? you'll have a fully functional spoiler again, for the price of a few cc's of pentosin and an hour or two of messing with it. i also have a "step by step" how to, if you need. GL, if you do try it.

Hosewater2

Yes I have been studying your posts on 6SO, pure Stop Leak or 50/50 mix with power steering fluid? Going to try and refill it over the holiday. Uneven deployment doesn't really do it justice, it's way off.

"02996ttx50

porsche used ch11s so thats good "enough" many opted for a "thicker" blend using lucas stop leak and pent 50/50. but not necessary.

would you like me to fwd the instruction sheet as a guide? if followed precisely? you'll get er done

"02996ttx50

here it is for ref: again GL!

1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position

2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.

3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid

4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud

5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed

6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening

7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.

8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off

9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining

10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids

11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full

12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts

13. Torque the banjo bolts snug

14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires

15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)

16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts

17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud

18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light

Hosewater2

Thanks! How do you keep from losing fluid and letting any air in when hooking the lines back up to the pump after filling?

"02996ttx50

to the best of my ability to answer this for you? see step #12(?). you'll have a better sense of it all once you begin. again GL and ( not for nuthin'? ) Happy T-Day

Kevin

A little caution.. It is my opinion that (high concentration levels or ratio of) stop leak or thicker than stock CHF11/202 viscosity >> will cause the orings to swell. This "can" cause enough drag/resistance to break the Electric Pump nylon servo lift BLOCK. If this block breaks your system is out of service. FYI, I will have a solution for that hopefully by Christmas..

All components will then be serviceable inexpensively.

Hosewater2

Is that the 3D printed piece I saw elsewhere?

KM1959

Let me let you in on a little secret, most of those "warnings" are there because of lawyers, not engineers. I am an engineer who sometimes has to perform the unenviable task of writing user manuals. Don't believe everything you read.

DaveCarrera4

Those same *cough* lawyers made the damn programmers change the cluster warning to stay on brightly lit up in red and continue to ding for the 997 turbo, if the wing fails to extend. They also made the damn engineers design a bigger wing to add even more downforce! How dare they throw their weight around in Zuffenhausen.

happy thanksgiving from the wing whisperer... =)

KM1959

That light was from the service managers who knew they could boost profits by fixing the spoiler failures. If you annoy them they will come.

Have any other daredevils driven over 75 MPH with their spoiler down and blew themselves off the road? I guess that's redundant as that wouldn't be here to tell us about it. My car must be the unicorn as it feels rock solid at those speeds. I Can't drive any faster around here as the traffic flow and limits won't allow it. For you guys that can drive 90+ I'm sure it's more of an issue.

champignon

Please don't confuse us with the facts.

I am actually more concerned about owners driving around with the spoiler in the fixed up position at low speeds, e.g. between 0-25 mph, which can have disastrous consequences.

Don't let this be you:

rufrob

Such a timely issue. My left ram was leaking. After trying my best for several hours following the instructions with limited success I gave up and took it to my mechanic. I got the left one to work but it was twice as high as the right so I tried bleeding the right and only got it half as high as the left. Btw the right side has never been opened or bleed to my knowledge. The oil in it was yellowish brown with lots of black particles. He put the head of the ram into a bench vice. Pulled up on it/extended it. Stuck a small enough Allen key inside pushing down a valve inside the ram. That allowed the 5ml in easily. With rams attached stood the pump vertical opened the banjo bolt at the pump and filled it. Voila. Rams that extend high and even.
Hope this helps others.
I think paying $1000 for a rear spoiler is too much. Has anyone here tried the DuraFlex GT2?