OEM GT3 Front Camber Plate Monoball Replacement?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OEM GT3 Front Camber Plate Monoball Replacement?
So I've done a search and can't seem to find the answer. While replacing the wheel bearings I noticed one of my camber plate bearings is really stiff and doesn't rotate causing the spring to wind up and release when the wheel is turned.
Does anyone know if the upper monoball is replaceable? If so, does anyone have a part number or instructions on how to do it? I have flooded the affected bearing with Krytox to no avail.
Thanks!
Does anyone know if the upper monoball is replaceable? If so, does anyone have a part number or instructions on how to do it? I have flooded the affected bearing with Krytox to no avail.
Thanks!
#2
Pro
I see nothing specified in the cup, cup-s, grand-am, gt3-r, or rsr parts catalog for a replacement bearing for the fronts. The back was 9R1.331.779.00, and they were also used in the front for the earlier design hats. All of the rears and fronts with that bearing number were retained by a ring. See Ray's experience here: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...l#post11085591
I believe the disc, on the bottom, with the 4 'holes', is what retains the bearing. It is hard to tell from photos but it looks like those holes fit a special tool used to unthread the ring from the body of the mount. If the holes don't look deep enough for a tool to grab, maybe those are 4 trimmed off/countersunk bolts? Even if you could get to the insides, I'm not sure how you would press the bearing out without issues. It doesn't seem like there is enough of the race showing from the top to get a surface to push against. If you get it apart, please keep snap a few photos, it would be interesting to see what is going on.
I believe the disc, on the bottom, with the 4 'holes', is what retains the bearing. It is hard to tell from photos but it looks like those holes fit a special tool used to unthread the ring from the body of the mount. If the holes don't look deep enough for a tool to grab, maybe those are 4 trimmed off/countersunk bolts? Even if you could get to the insides, I'm not sure how you would press the bearing out without issues. It doesn't seem like there is enough of the race showing from the top to get a surface to push against. If you get it apart, please keep snap a few photos, it would be interesting to see what is going on.
#3
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
They are replaceable - search on my name, I wrote it up with part numbers. That said they are supposed to be still, in fact if they were loose, you would have a problem.
Some folks sell a kit that are 2 thrust washers with a thin roller bearing that is installed at the top of the shock - this is what you are looking for. I also wrote up the part #'s for the 2.25" springs
Ray
Some folks sell a kit that are 2 thrust washers with a thin roller bearing that is installed at the top of the shock - this is what you are looking for. I also wrote up the part #'s for the 2.25" springs
Ray
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
This is great information. I looked at Ray's post and found the part numbers that he posted. The driver side bearing is tight but has good movement. The passenger side bearing is very stiff and will not move side to side or rotate well. I might try to spray it with Krytox while moving it to free it up when I go back in to do the lower control arms. At that point it'll be easy to remove the shock and the strut mount and I'll see if I can safely get it apart to take some pictures.
Thanks to both of y'all!
Thanks to both of y'all!