Buying a tracked vs. non-tracked GT3?
05-23-2017, 04:55 AM
#1
Buying a tracked vs. non-tracked GT3?
I am looking to join the 996 GT3 club and have been seeing two types of cars for sale:
A) Cars that were used primarily on the track, but very well maintained with the standard track-focused upgrades (ex: LWFW, coolant lines pinned, Guards LSD, upgraded rotors/pads). In general great condition exterior and interior with very frequent service intervals
B) Cars that were used primarily on the street with only an occasional DE (or none at all) and mostly stock. Maintained on a normal schedule and in great condition.
Assuming the same price and mileage which would you pick? My intent is to use the car as primarily a weekend canyon carver with an occasional HPDE every month or two. My thinking is that for the track car, you get the upgrades for free. On the other hand, I assume the higher and prolonged temps and stress that track cars experience must result in big ticket repairs (e.g., engine rebuild) sooner? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Lastly, one of the tracked cars I am looking at was involved in a collision with a tire wall that resulted in needing to replace the front bumper, fender, and radiators (no frame damage according to owner). Is that something you would be worried about or a non-issue if the repair was done well? Thanks in advance!
A) Cars that were used primarily on the track, but very well maintained with the standard track-focused upgrades (ex: LWFW, coolant lines pinned, Guards LSD, upgraded rotors/pads). In general great condition exterior and interior with very frequent service intervals
B) Cars that were used primarily on the street with only an occasional DE (or none at all) and mostly stock. Maintained on a normal schedule and in great condition.
Assuming the same price and mileage which would you pick? My intent is to use the car as primarily a weekend canyon carver with an occasional HPDE every month or two. My thinking is that for the track car, you get the upgrades for free. On the other hand, I assume the higher and prolonged temps and stress that track cars experience must result in big ticket repairs (e.g., engine rebuild) sooner? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Lastly, one of the tracked cars I am looking at was involved in a collision with a tire wall that resulted in needing to replace the front bumper, fender, and radiators (no frame damage according to owner). Is that something you would be worried about or a non-issue if the repair was done well? Thanks in advance!
05-23-2017, 10:27 AM
#2
Three Wheelin'
First, a little history. I purchased my first Porsche 7 years ago, a 997 cab. As an enthusiast I said I need to take on the track. Once I did, got hooked and I purchased a 996 GT3 one year later based on a friends advise. This was a street/ stock car that I improved and made safer for DE. First cost was for welded fittings, new hoses, water pump, etc etc, rebuild stock shocks and set up, new toe links, LSD, new high flow cat and muffler. Probably about $15-17k. Then later, brembo big brake kit and RS rear wing, another $6k. Lesson, it is expensive to modify street car for track, best to buy track prepped if you plan on doing any DE.
Therefore, my advice would be as follows;
1) if you plan on street driving and canyon driver only, get a non tracked car.
2) if you now are thinking about occasional DE car. Get a track set up car. Do your investigation. You will travel 130+ mph. Be as safe as you can. Ie fittings, brakes, hoses, coils, water pump, seats harness, etc has been installed or replaced. Cheaper if somebody has already done it, then if you try to build your own.
So choice,
1-A - the 996 GT3 is not the right car. Consider a 997 GTS.
1-B - a 6-3 in stock form is not great for aggressive driving, it requires some subtle tweaks; alignment, move brake bias rearward, limited slip replacement, etc
2-A - 9-6 is perfect
2-B - 9-6 require modifications. Getting a 12-13 year old car that can easily go 150 mph will cost $$$$ 12-15k.
LWFW - be careful, if not properly balanced, may damage engine. Better to stay with stock - not enough benefit for DE.
Catalytic converter - if using car for DE, high temps will eventually gum up the OEM CAT, need to replace after 10 DE events with a high flow CAT as gummed up CAT will create back pressure and may damage the engine. Valid for all cars.
Therefore, my advice would be as follows;
1) if you plan on street driving and canyon driver only, get a non tracked car.
2) if you now are thinking about occasional DE car. Get a track set up car. Do your investigation. You will travel 130+ mph. Be as safe as you can. Ie fittings, brakes, hoses, coils, water pump, seats harness, etc has been installed or replaced. Cheaper if somebody has already done it, then if you try to build your own.
So choice,
1-A - the 996 GT3 is not the right car. Consider a 997 GTS.
1-B - a 6-3 in stock form is not great for aggressive driving, it requires some subtle tweaks; alignment, move brake bias rearward, limited slip replacement, etc
2-A - 9-6 is perfect
2-B - 9-6 require modifications. Getting a 12-13 year old car that can easily go 150 mph will cost $$$$ 12-15k.
LWFW - be careful, if not properly balanced, may damage engine. Better to stay with stock - not enough benefit for DE.
Catalytic converter - if using car for DE, high temps will eventually gum up the OEM CAT, need to replace after 10 DE events with a high flow CAT as gummed up CAT will create back pressure and may damage the engine. Valid for all cars.
05-23-2017, 11:58 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Respect your knowledge and opinions Tgavem, but I'm not sure I agree with some of your conclusions and want to point out some different view points for the benefit of the OP (as well as anyone else who may stumble across this thread.
First, I totally agree that if the car is going to see even occasional track use, there are definitely some mods and preventative maintenance items (that are fairly pricey) that you would want to see in a car you are considering (I.e pinned pipes, etc). Likewise, if you are likely to be shelling out for mods you will want later, much cheaper to buy a car that has them already.
However, I don't agree with the sentiment that a stock car can't be fun on the street or great for "aggressive driving". Everyone is different of course, and we are talking about subjective and personal impressions and preferences, but I'm proof that these kinds of blanket statements that get thrown around this forum don't apply to everyone.
Second, a lwfw was one of my favorite mods and definitely made a difference in the responsiveness and "fun factor" for the car. And, the problems you refer to can exist if you use poor quality parts or if you have a 3.8 gt3 (where harmonic balancing issues can cause problems), but I've yet to hear of a single problem with a lwfw on a 3.6 gt3 , especially if using oem parts (I used the oem 996 gt3rs parts and love it).
Finally, I've never heard that oem cats die after ten track days! I have friends that track their cars every opportunity with stock cats (in az!) with no issues with the cats. If that were a real problem it would be well known on the forum given the amount of track time cars on this forum see. Im not saying it can't happen, I'm just saying I've seen no evidence that this kind of damage is a "given".
First, I totally agree that if the car is going to see even occasional track use, there are definitely some mods and preventative maintenance items (that are fairly pricey) that you would want to see in a car you are considering (I.e pinned pipes, etc). Likewise, if you are likely to be shelling out for mods you will want later, much cheaper to buy a car that has them already.
However, I don't agree with the sentiment that a stock car can't be fun on the street or great for "aggressive driving". Everyone is different of course, and we are talking about subjective and personal impressions and preferences, but I'm proof that these kinds of blanket statements that get thrown around this forum don't apply to everyone.
Second, a lwfw was one of my favorite mods and definitely made a difference in the responsiveness and "fun factor" for the car. And, the problems you refer to can exist if you use poor quality parts or if you have a 3.8 gt3 (where harmonic balancing issues can cause problems), but I've yet to hear of a single problem with a lwfw on a 3.6 gt3 , especially if using oem parts (I used the oem 996 gt3rs parts and love it).
Finally, I've never heard that oem cats die after ten track days! I have friends that track their cars every opportunity with stock cats (in az!) with no issues with the cats. If that were a real problem it would be well known on the forum given the amount of track time cars on this forum see. Im not saying it can't happen, I'm just saying I've seen no evidence that this kind of damage is a "given".
05-23-2017, 03:55 PM
#4
I am looking to join the 996 GT3 club and have been seeing two types of cars for sale:
A) Cars that were used primarily on the track, but very well maintained with the standard track-focused upgrades (ex: LWFW, coolant lines pinned, Guards LSD, upgraded rotors/pads). In general great condition exterior and interior with very frequent service intervals
B) Cars that were used primarily on the street with only an occasional DE (or none at all) and mostly stock. Maintained on a normal schedule and in great condition.
Assuming the same price and mileage which would you pick? My intent is to use the car as primarily a weekend canyon carver with an occasional HPDE every month or two. My thinking is that for the track car, you get the upgrades for free. On the other hand, I assume the higher and prolonged temps and stress that track cars experience must result in big ticket repairs (e.g., engine rebuild) sooner? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Lastly, one of the tracked cars I am looking at was involved in a collision with a tire wall that resulted in needing to replace the front bumper, fender, and radiators (no frame damage according to owner). Is that something you would be worried about or a non-issue if the repair was done well? Thanks in advance!
A) Cars that were used primarily on the track, but very well maintained with the standard track-focused upgrades (ex: LWFW, coolant lines pinned, Guards LSD, upgraded rotors/pads). In general great condition exterior and interior with very frequent service intervals
B) Cars that were used primarily on the street with only an occasional DE (or none at all) and mostly stock. Maintained on a normal schedule and in great condition.
Assuming the same price and mileage which would you pick? My intent is to use the car as primarily a weekend canyon carver with an occasional HPDE every month or two. My thinking is that for the track car, you get the upgrades for free. On the other hand, I assume the higher and prolonged temps and stress that track cars experience must result in big ticket repairs (e.g., engine rebuild) sooner? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Lastly, one of the tracked cars I am looking at was involved in a collision with a tire wall that resulted in needing to replace the front bumper, fender, and radiators (no frame damage according to owner). Is that something you would be worried about or a non-issue if the repair was done well? Thanks in advance!
Based on your intent to use the car as a weekend carver with "an occasional HPDE every month or two" - you need the track rat car. I wouldn’t even bother considering a street car and "upgrading" it later. Ask anyone here that does 6+ events a year and they'll preach to you about this truism. As TG mentioned, this is a fools ($) errand. [Note: going to the track every month or two is far from occasional. 12 events a year is pretty hard core. 6 events a year is close behind.] You'll quickly want the street variant to be more track oriented.
Because the 6.3 is so robust, I don't think that a ton of track days are any issue. At. All. [Keep in mind that the track heavy cars are almost certainly maintained better. Not in every instance, but I guarantee you almost everyone posting here. Preventative maintenance, normal maintenance, scheduled maintenance, fixing factory issues (i.e., upgrading the LSD), etc. They don't let odd noises linger (wheel bearings, brakes, whatever). So you will likely get a car that (although it has more "hard" miles), has a better maintenance history.] Also, if you ask around, I suspect you will only find a few instances of 6.3's needing engine rebuilds. And even then, I'm not sure they were actually needed. These are derived from racing engines. They work.
On a related note, I wouldn't be worried about any hickies on the car either, so long as they were repaired to factory specs. The price should reflect the issue. Axles break, bearings give up, tires blow, etc. IMO, track damage isn't fatal to a car. Mine got a ding and came back faster.
I struggle with the two cars in your (A) and (B) examples because they could be pretty different in terms of quality if they are otherwise equal in terms of miles and price. [That is, the street car would almost necessarily need to be in much better condition.] As to 6.2 GT3s available now, a lot of us on this forum watch the 6.3 market (directly or indirectly). The prices of cars vary from ~$55K-$85K depending on condition / quality / mods, etc. Assuming 50K miles, a “great” condition stock street 6.3 is going to be somewhere around $65-$70K. A “good” condition track rat variant 6.3 that is in that price range (same miles) is likely going to have a ton of desirable upgrades that you won’t get at a discounted price (because they can be stripped and sold), e.g., upgraded wing ($2K-$5K); seats (~$3K); suspension ($2k-$5K); wheels ($2.5K); roll bar ($1K). That’s $10-$15K+ of equipment. So, the underlying car would probably be valued at around $55K if turned back to street. A ~$15K difference for the same miles is a pretty different car. And maybe this is what your original question is getting at – would someone buy an “ugly” track-ish 6.3, or a “pretty” street 6.3 that gets converted to track duty. I’d be perfectly content with the “ugly” duckling with more track mods. [related data point, if you did get a the $65K stock/street car, it would take you another ~$15K to get all the things you need for a track car. Simple math takes the car to ~$80K.]
In terms of street driving, a track modified 6.3 is not very usable on the street. Suspension is rough, makes a lot of noises, not comfy in any way, not good for long drives, etc. A street version is a little better, but even then I wouldn’t use it as a daily driver.
Either way, good luck in your quest! I hope you find the car that fits your criteria!
-td
05-23-2017, 06:04 PM
#5
Race Car
Track car. Buy the seller not the car. A well maintained track car will save you money in the long run from a setup and modification standpoint. There are track cars out there that are never maintained but generally they aren't members of this community...yet they still exist so do your homework and buy from someone you trust and as you stated you'll get all of the good stuff for a heavily discounted price.
05-23-2017, 06:57 PM
#6
Racer
Track car. Gt3 is engineered for it. Get one already track prepped. Street use might as well buy a gtS and save money because you'll never approach what the car is designed to do
05-23-2017, 07:17 PM
#7
All great advice here,
A stock 6.3 is actually very average. A modded 6.3 is amazing.
6-12 track days per year is a lot. Get the best set up car you can.
Pinned, seats, suspension, roll bar, wheels, guards, gearbox 2nd gear?, LWFW. 997 exhaust, etc.
One of the most rewarding Porsches you can buy. It's not the fastest. But, its fast enough to hang with the more modern cars. If set up right and well driven.
A stock 6.3 is actually very average. A modded 6.3 is amazing.
6-12 track days per year is a lot. Get the best set up car you can.
Pinned, seats, suspension, roll bar, wheels, guards, gearbox 2nd gear?, LWFW. 997 exhaust, etc.
One of the most rewarding Porsches you can buy. It's not the fastest. But, its fast enough to hang with the more modern cars. If set up right and well driven.
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05-23-2017, 11:53 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Here are my $0.02 for posterity.
Based on your intent to use the car as a weekend carver with "an occasional HPDE every month or two" - you need the track rat car. I wouldn’t even bother considering a street car and "upgrading" it later. Ask anyone here that does 6+ events a year and they'll preach to you about this truism. As TG mentioned, this is a fools ($) errand. [Note: going to the track every month or two is far from occasional. 12 events a year is pretty hard core. 6 events a year is close behind.] You'll quickly want the street variant to be more track oriented.
Because the 6.3 is so robust, I don't think that a ton of track days are any issue. At. All. [Keep in mind that the track heavy cars are almost certainly maintained better. Not in every instance, but I guarantee you almost everyone posting here. Preventative maintenance, normal maintenance, scheduled maintenance, fixing factory issues (i.e., upgrading the LSD), etc. They don't let odd noises linger (wheel bearings, brakes, whatever). So you will likely get a car that (although it has more "hard" miles), has a better maintenance history.] Also, if you ask around, I suspect you will only find a few instances of 6.3's needing engine rebuilds. And even then, I'm not sure they were actually needed. These are derived from racing engines. They work.
On a related note, I wouldn't be worried about any hickies on the car either, so long as they were repaired to factory specs. The price should reflect the issue. Axles break, bearings give up, tires blow, etc. IMO, track damage isn't fatal to a car. Mine got a ding and came back faster.
I struggle with the two cars in your (A) and (B) examples because they could be pretty different in terms of quality if they are otherwise equal in terms of miles and price. [That is, the street car would almost necessarily need to be in much better condition.] As to 6.2 GT3s available now, a lot of us on this forum watch the 6.3 market (directly or indirectly). The prices of cars vary from ~$55K-$85K depending on condition / quality / mods, etc. Assuming 50K miles, a “great” condition stock street 6.3 is going to be somewhere around $65-$70K. A “good” condition track rat variant 6.3 that is in that price range (same miles) is likely going to have a ton of desirable upgrades that you won’t get at a discounted price (because they can be stripped and sold), e.g., upgraded wing ($2K-$5K); seats (~$3K); suspension ($2k-$5K); wheels ($2.5K); roll bar ($1K). That’s $10-$15K+ of equipment. So, the underlying car would probably be valued at around $55K if turned back to street. A ~$15K difference for the same miles is a pretty different car. And maybe this is what your original question is getting at – would someone buy an “ugly” track-ish 6.3, or a “pretty” street 6.3 that gets converted to track duty. I’d be perfectly content with the “ugly” duckling with more track mods. [related data point, if you did get a the $65K stock/street car, it would take you another ~$15K to get all the things you need for a track car. Simple math takes the car to ~$80K.]
In terms of street driving, a track modified 6.3 is not very usable on the street. Suspension is rough, makes a lot of noises, not comfy in any way, not good for long drives, etc. A street version is a little better, but even then I wouldn’t use it as a daily driver.
Either way, good luck in your quest! I hope you find the car that fits your criteria!
-td
Based on your intent to use the car as a weekend carver with "an occasional HPDE every month or two" - you need the track rat car. I wouldn’t even bother considering a street car and "upgrading" it later. Ask anyone here that does 6+ events a year and they'll preach to you about this truism. As TG mentioned, this is a fools ($) errand. [Note: going to the track every month or two is far from occasional. 12 events a year is pretty hard core. 6 events a year is close behind.] You'll quickly want the street variant to be more track oriented.
Because the 6.3 is so robust, I don't think that a ton of track days are any issue. At. All. [Keep in mind that the track heavy cars are almost certainly maintained better. Not in every instance, but I guarantee you almost everyone posting here. Preventative maintenance, normal maintenance, scheduled maintenance, fixing factory issues (i.e., upgrading the LSD), etc. They don't let odd noises linger (wheel bearings, brakes, whatever). So you will likely get a car that (although it has more "hard" miles), has a better maintenance history.] Also, if you ask around, I suspect you will only find a few instances of 6.3's needing engine rebuilds. And even then, I'm not sure they were actually needed. These are derived from racing engines. They work.
On a related note, I wouldn't be worried about any hickies on the car either, so long as they were repaired to factory specs. The price should reflect the issue. Axles break, bearings give up, tires blow, etc. IMO, track damage isn't fatal to a car. Mine got a ding and came back faster.
I struggle with the two cars in your (A) and (B) examples because they could be pretty different in terms of quality if they are otherwise equal in terms of miles and price. [That is, the street car would almost necessarily need to be in much better condition.] As to 6.2 GT3s available now, a lot of us on this forum watch the 6.3 market (directly or indirectly). The prices of cars vary from ~$55K-$85K depending on condition / quality / mods, etc. Assuming 50K miles, a “great” condition stock street 6.3 is going to be somewhere around $65-$70K. A “good” condition track rat variant 6.3 that is in that price range (same miles) is likely going to have a ton of desirable upgrades that you won’t get at a discounted price (because they can be stripped and sold), e.g., upgraded wing ($2K-$5K); seats (~$3K); suspension ($2k-$5K); wheels ($2.5K); roll bar ($1K). That’s $10-$15K+ of equipment. So, the underlying car would probably be valued at around $55K if turned back to street. A ~$15K difference for the same miles is a pretty different car. And maybe this is what your original question is getting at – would someone buy an “ugly” track-ish 6.3, or a “pretty” street 6.3 that gets converted to track duty. I’d be perfectly content with the “ugly” duckling with more track mods. [related data point, if you did get a the $65K stock/street car, it would take you another ~$15K to get all the things you need for a track car. Simple math takes the car to ~$80K.]
In terms of street driving, a track modified 6.3 is not very usable on the street. Suspension is rough, makes a lot of noises, not comfy in any way, not good for long drives, etc. A street version is a little better, but even then I wouldn’t use it as a daily driver.
Either way, good luck in your quest! I hope you find the car that fits your criteria!
-td
05-23-2017, 11:59 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Regarding LWFW - I stated may cause vibration and damage. Not certainty, but do your research. High quality parts and installed by a good shop, not an issue as stated above.
CAT - we have had a few failures here in Houston area. A very inexpensive swap to ensure no melt down and potential high back pressure and engine failure. Not a gamble I would take.
The key is. Educate your self. Talk to track people, shop owners etc.
find a good car that is well maintained. I would not sweat to much about some track damage if properly repaired. Then buy the car that you feel passion for.
CAT - we have had a few failures here in Houston area. A very inexpensive swap to ensure no melt down and potential high back pressure and engine failure. Not a gamble I would take.
The key is. Educate your self. Talk to track people, shop owners etc.
find a good car that is well maintained. I would not sweat to much about some track damage if properly repaired. Then buy the car that you feel passion for.
Last edited by tgavem; 05-24-2017 at 09:05 AM.
05-24-2017, 12:04 AM
#10
Three Wheelin'
As himself pointed out. Making a "pretty" street car a great DE car is expensive.
Making a great and well maintained track car a "pretty" car is less expensive. $3-4K worth of paint.
Making a great and well maintained track car a "pretty" car is less expensive. $3-4K worth of paint.
05-24-2017, 02:08 AM
#11
Drifting
Track car. Buy the seller not the car. A well maintained track car will save you money in the long run from a setup and modification standpoint. There are track cars out there that are never maintained but generally they aren't members of this community...yet they still exist so do your homework and buy from someone you trust and as you stated you'll get all of the good stuff for a heavily discounted price.
05-24-2017, 05:06 AM
#12
Thanks everyone for your advice. I really appreciate the thoughtful responses.
I'm probably being a bit ambitious when I say 6-12 DE's a year, it will be probably more like 3-4x a year given my current work schedule but it sounds like that will not change the recommendations much.
I am getting more comfortable with the idea of getting a primarily track driven car given that the feedback is unanimous that it's a non-issue. I have to say I'm a bit surprised. Coming from a regular 996 C2 where engines are seen as ticking time bombs, it's taking me some time to accept the fact that the GT3 is a completely different beast haha.
@himself - interestingly I am looking at cars in the $65k-70k range that you mentioned and I would say that with equal mileage and price, the well-modded "track rat" cars are in similar condition aesthetically to the non-tracked cars. I am guessing the reason they aren't higher is that the average AutoTrader browser is usually not a track-rat and has the preconceived notion that stock is best. Also as these cars get older, it seems like more people are looking to them for their collectability. Personally, I think it's such a waste to get a car like this just to have it sit in a garage.
@tgavem, thanks for advice and your detailed breakdown of scenarios haha. Makes sense and I will keep the advice on LWFW and cats in mind.
I'm probably being a bit ambitious when I say 6-12 DE's a year, it will be probably more like 3-4x a year given my current work schedule but it sounds like that will not change the recommendations much.
I am getting more comfortable with the idea of getting a primarily track driven car given that the feedback is unanimous that it's a non-issue. I have to say I'm a bit surprised. Coming from a regular 996 C2 where engines are seen as ticking time bombs, it's taking me some time to accept the fact that the GT3 is a completely different beast haha.
@himself - interestingly I am looking at cars in the $65k-70k range that you mentioned and I would say that with equal mileage and price, the well-modded "track rat" cars are in similar condition aesthetically to the non-tracked cars. I am guessing the reason they aren't higher is that the average AutoTrader browser is usually not a track-rat and has the preconceived notion that stock is best. Also as these cars get older, it seems like more people are looking to them for their collectability. Personally, I think it's such a waste to get a car like this just to have it sit in a garage.
@tgavem, thanks for advice and your detailed breakdown of scenarios haha. Makes sense and I will keep the advice on LWFW and cats in mind.
05-24-2017, 09:42 AM
#13
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I bought my GT3 2.5 years ago and my use case was basically identical to yours. I purchased the best set up car I could find and saved about 35 grand in the process. The car had been driven HARD, crashed into a tire wall and repaired very well with no expense spared. It had excellent maintenance history and I took that to an even higher level in my ownership. It was a gem of a car, I drove the pants off it every time I got in it and it never missed a beat (except for a gearbox rebuild which was expensive because I chose to replace every synchro with Motorsport items). Regrettably, I sold the car a couple of months ago due to some temporary life circumstances and miss it immensely. I can't wait to be back in one in the near future. The next 996 GT3 I buy, I will look for one with similar attributes.
Take the plunge, you'll be glad you did.
Take the plunge, you'll be glad you did.
05-24-2017, 07:42 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Track car. Buy the seller not the car. A well maintained track car will save you money in the long run from a setup and modification standpoint. There are track cars out there that are never maintained but generally they aren't members of this community...yet they still exist so do your homework and buy from someone you trust and as you stated you'll get all of the good stuff for a heavily discounted price.
one serious item to consider is a lot of parts onthese cars aren't up to track duty as they age, a lot of effort and expense to get the cars to that point especially if your looking at a lot of events. Don't under estimate the value in total car care!!!!! Doesn't matter which GT car.
My best friend bought 6gt3 new for his daily driver and Wife bought it for me because there were no stories it spent it's whole life in Barrington! He has plenty of Porsches but uses 914-6 GT for track duty and 912e for daily (stripper).
I refreshed everything even though he never tracked the car! . Super clean street car is not necessarily one for the track! .
cheers
05-24-2017, 08:05 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
Track car. Buy the seller not the car. A well maintained track car will save you money in the long run from a setup and modification standpoint. There are track cars out there that are never maintained but generally they aren't members of this community...yet they still exist so do your homework and buy from someone you trust and as you stated you'll get all of the good stuff for a heavily discounted price.
one serious item to consider is a lot of parts onthese cars aren't up to track duty as they age, a lot of effort and expense to get the cars to that point especially if your looking at a lot of events. Don't under estimate the value in total car care!!!!! Doesn't matter which GT car.
My best friend bought 6gt3 new for his daily driver and Wife bought it for me because there were no stories it spent it's whole life in Barrington! He has plenty of Porsches but uses 914-6 GT for track duty and 912e for daily (stripper).
I refreshed everything even though he never tracked the car! . Super clean street car is not necessarily one for the track! .
cheers