jj1

To be a little more specific, you should maximize your front track. Push the top hats all the way outboard and add camber with shims. At a point this will significantly change caster so make sure you have adjustable thrust arms or thrust bushings to dial it in. Solid top hats and CAs help.
I'm running 245s on a 10" wheel on a my 996 c2. That helps.
Good adjustable shocks and tuning the diff can certainly help dial in the characteristics of the car.

Kaizu

This guy John has a too crazy killer setup in is 996!!

However, wanted to point out that it seems among the pro Porsche teams that spend 5K a corner for their shocks alone, the term "remote canister" is nowadays seen almost as disadvantage, same thing when you talk with chassis engineers who fine-tune the suspension with sensor data alone. The very best ones would not have lines from remote canisters because it's not accurate anymore

Having that said, I am eagerly waiting for new-to-me remote canister shocks from a rebuild. Actually, have been waiting that for X monts...

Spyerx

1. Monoball everything with a proper alignment
2. Replace (depending on miles) lower control arms
3. Ohlins TTX dampers, 2 way is fine.
4. Replace wheel bearings
5. Service axles
6. Guard diff
7. Weld coolant lines
8. Replace misc rubber on the motor while out for welding
9. Inspect radiators/check for seepage
10. Race brake pads and rotors
11. Brake system flush w/ racing fluid
12. Proper oil and tranny fluids
13. Tires of your choice
14. Proper safety equipment
15. Drive the hell out of it

A well setup and driven GT3 is an extremely capable car.

BTW most of what is in the 997 GT3 section applies to the 996. They are very similar cars suspension, chassis, motor, trans.

onelove

The RSS Tarmac complete kits offer a nice solution to completely monorail everything. Add solid engine and trans mounts, guard diff and do an overall service and your bound to have a great start. I too just sold the GT4 we purchased as it wasn't special enough to justify selling the GT3 for, I've since planned a host of updates to my GT3 (already has the mods mentioned) to keep her in tip top shape so I can enjoy her for many years to come.

KOAN

I made the same decision...to keep the GT3 instead of getting a GT4...based on friends' experiences with both. You can probably get away with 600#800# springs if you want to drive the car on the street. Anything more than that can get harsh.
Motion Control, JRZ, Ohlins all make great shocks. I'd look for something used and get them result if you want to save a few $$$.

FFaust

^^^ So, 2 sets of JRZ Race (red) coming to market soon (if I can get off my fat a$$ and post them).

2-way $3250 no springs (2.5 seasons since rebuild by Tim Olsen)
3-way $4800 including stiff springs a la Pwdrhound, well not quite (1 season since... uh new, I think)

Both with quick disconnects.

993GT

+1, shock body-mount canisters are where it at now..

I'm very happy with my Ohlins R&T coilovers and monoballed' suspension, it is very competent...
I run very aggressive(towards 0 rear toe) toe settings but will probably go a bit more conservative next year for high speed stability/confidence, works on technical tracks...

kurtkrum

I'd like to know more about your setup. I've not run toe out on the front of my car yet and want to try this. What spring rate are you running and what is the rear toe you're running?

powdrhound

^^ That's exactly the set up I run except I don't use toe out in the front, instead a small amount of toe in (1' per side) as I run 275 front tires and turn in is not an issue. Rear toe I run 17' per side. This is a fast set up that allows you to charge the corners and trail brake heavily without the car becoming loose. I use 1400F/1500R springs...

spiller

I am not sure of the spring rates (they were fitted along with a high quality aftermarket damper by one of the previous owners). I will check the toe settings from last time it was aligned and post in here. Running OEM tyre sizes and turn in is not an issue in the slightest. The car is very pointy but the rear is also easily controllable.

spiller

Finally had the chance to look at my car's current set up today whilst cleaning the wheel wells.
​​​​
I have what looks like the early non damper adjustable CUP dampers with Eibach springs (not H&R which usually comes with the CUP). I couldn't locate a part number on the front springs unfortunately but the rear is 170-60-0190 meaning 190 N/mm (1084 lb/inch) and the tender is 50 N/mm (285 lb/inch).

The sway bars are one setting from softest on the FRONT and REAR

Wheel alignment settings are as follows...

FRONT:
Camber: -3.8
Toe: 0.5 out on both sides

REAR:
Camber: -2.9
Toe: 2.5 in on both sides

Everything is monoballed and I have motorsport toe links with locking plates. Cup LSD also.

Corner weights (kg) with 95 kg driver RHD vehicle:

FL: 266.5
FR: 286.5
RL: 435
RR: 450

Tyres are a Yokohama A050 in OEM sizes. The A050 are about 20% better than NT01 in my subjective opinion. I don't profess to be an expert on GT3 dynamics but from my experience with this car on track, there is absolutely no understeer. The rear tends to oversteer however it is predicable and easily controllable under throttle and when trail braking.
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CanyonBlaster

I run 800# & 950# springs, would like more when I track but this set up is fine for spirited street use, not too harsh. BTW, I also run Moton 3 ways, and a ton of other chassis mods.

CanyonBlaster

John your mods list reads like a novel! haha.

BTW gang, all good tips from John here, and, he can drive the wheels off his rocket fast RUF car!

tgavem

Many good suggestions. Have you played with the sway bar settings?
That can have a high and immediate effect on understeer

Couple of additional points:
Talk with a good mechanic, one that has worked with racing before, set it up.
Drive it, let the mechanic know how it feels, make adjustments. For me, a base setting worked well for awhile, then I increased speed and style of driving. Changed a few times over 1.5 years.
Record what you are doing and only change 1 or max 2 things per change in set up.
Try wider front tires (record tire pressure), set sway bar and a base alignment, then next time start playing with more camber, toe out front, then adjust rear camber and toe, etc

I have 600/800 spring rate F/R, rebuilt shocks to match, run AD08 235/40-18 & 285/30-18 on street and R888 245/40-18 and 315/30/18 for track. I have tried NT01 and I dont like them. Soft sidewall and makes the car bouncy and and unstable and sometimes have to wait on tires through transitions. So get a tire you like for your car and driving style. With some many variables, be patient.........

MJSpeed

On the last 996 GT3 we did for one of our clients, we replaced all LCA's, thrust arm bushings, toe and bump steer components. We replaced motor and gearbox mounts, along with axles and adjusted the sway bars. We then installed Manthey Racing's 996 GT3RS Clubsport Suspension kit. The kit is a 3-way adjustable clubsport kit which supersedes the 2-way adjustable one they used to offer. The kit comes set-up from Manthey and is a plug and play item.

I've driven plenty of 6GT3 (owned one for awhile), this is one of if not the best dual purpose handling 6GT3 if ever driven. By dual purpose I mean track and street driving which to me is key, and frankly the toughest set-up to dial in just right simply because it's a two-way compromise. Nevertheless, IMO this set-up with the Manthey Racing Clubsport kit is perfect.