Replace Coils; Need Longer Bolts (996 & 997 GT3)
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Replace Coils; Need Longer Bolts (996 & 997 GT3)
Just a heads up, no biggie.
If you replace the coil packs, the current PN is 997 602 104 02. It's beefier.
As you can see on the picture, you will need longer bolts (old on left, new on right)
Old bolt PN 900 067 089 01 (M6 x 25)
New bolt PN 900 385 025 01 (M6 x 40)
Bolt torque: 10 nm or 90 in lb
Oh, and the bolts go in the other way, picture is simply to show the bold and the boss.
If you replace the coil packs, the current PN is 997 602 104 02. It's beefier.
As you can see on the picture, you will need longer bolts (old on left, new on right)
Old bolt PN 900 067 089 01 (M6 x 25)
New bolt PN 900 385 025 01 (M6 x 40)
Bolt torque: 10 nm or 90 in lb
Oh, and the bolts go in the other way, picture is simply to show the bold and the boss.
#5
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Yeah, I know what you mean.
We have emissions test here, and since my plates (which I still maintain) are due in January, I had to get the test done. ECU showed a 'not ready', which means that the car hasn't been driven enough since the battery was reconnected (or whatever), so I 'had' to go out and drive the car to get some miles in.
My car has a cage and no interior, so not really a street car, but I had so much fun fighting, uhm, I mean driving, the car that I almost want to make it street-legal again so that I can drive it more. Car spends all its time on the lift between events, so it's a real shame to not be able to drive it more. Oh well.
We have emissions test here, and since my plates (which I still maintain) are due in January, I had to get the test done. ECU showed a 'not ready', which means that the car hasn't been driven enough since the battery was reconnected (or whatever), so I 'had' to go out and drive the car to get some miles in.
My car has a cage and no interior, so not really a street car, but I had so much fun fighting, uhm, I mean driving, the car that I almost want to make it street-legal again so that I can drive it more. Car spends all its time on the lift between events, so it's a real shame to not be able to drive it more. Oh well.
#6
Instructor
I can only imagine the look on the cop's face that pulls you over and looks inside that thing.
We always want what we haven't got, eh? You just need to by another one
We always want what we haven't got, eh? You just need to by another one
#7
How many miles did you have to drive before ECU read sensors. My ride around 60 miles after the first 3o miles didn't do it. Christallon YOU CAN FEEL THE DIFFERENCE?? If true I'll be changing mine
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#8
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Drove it for about an hour but it still wasn't ready (catalyst and O2 sensors). No check engine light or anything however. Car passed fine 2 years ago.
We have a thing here where they'll give you a conditional pass for a 'not ready', not a fail. So I can renew my plate for now, but will need a full pass if/when I sell the car.
We have a thing here where they'll give you a conditional pass for a 'not ready', not a fail. So I can renew my plate for now, but will need a full pass if/when I sell the car.
#9
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Wasn't going to give the cops any opportunity; I was fighting so much just to keep it on the road that speeding wasn't an option. Plus, I was so happy to just drive the thing on the street for a bit (it had been a few years) that, even under the speed limit, it was sensory overload.
#10
I think you have 30 days. Go out and run it around town, second gear & 3rd gear holding around 3500 rpm. Stop & Go - Back on highway- back through town. Go back to place immediately - they can check readiness without going through inspection. It was a task- I was worried about getting stopped as well. Jez
#11
#12
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter