cfjan

Hi all,

I know it is probably a long shot, but figured that I'd give it a try here.

I recently purchased a set of used but refreshed JRZ RS for my 996 GT3. I am wondering other than the springs, if I need to get new top hats as well, or I can re-use mine.

This is the damper that I am talking about:

http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...6sk-detail.htm

I believe my car already had monoball top hats on the back that was put in by the previous owner of the car. And front we already have monoball from factory. So I'd prefer not to buy new ones if I don't have to.

Thanks!

85Gold

You should be fine as long as they don't have excessive wear. Enjoy to new ride.

Peter

cfjan

That's what I was counting on, but the shop already ordered the top hats from JRZ. Oh well.. I guess I can try to sell my old ones once they come off. I am sure they are still in good condition, there was never noise, etc.

Yeah, looking forward to what an aftermarket suspension feels like. Been driving on the stock spring / damper for 5 years. This will be paired with 600/800 springs. Didn't go higher because I only run NT-01.

85Gold

You will drop time like mad. They transform the car. You would need the rears aftermarket ones anyway. The fronts would have been OK. But Tarett makes the best aftermarket. I have MCS 2 way with 550/750 springs.

Peter

996FLT6

U gonna love the jrz rs. I have it on my WWD type R. Mike

cfjan

Will keep you guys posted! I am not saying I was pushing the limit of the stock suspension already, but since the shocks were blown (it was kind of scary at the track with the driver side rear shock blown), and I was able to get a good deal on a refreshed set of the JRZ, so I decided to go for that.

powdrhound

I've been running JRZs for a number of years. You'll love them. With that said, 600/800 is going to be supper squishy even with NT01s if you push the car at all. I have run the JRZs with 600/800, 700/800, 1100/1200, and now 1400/1500 on JRZ Pros in combination with NT01s or V710s. The 1400/1500 set up is by far the best performing while 1100/1200 was a fantastic dual purpose set up that was very street friendly when the shock compression was set pretty soft. Shockingly, ride was comparable if not better to a stock 997 with PASM. 1400/1500 is still Ok on the street as long as your roads are decent. Just my $0.02... Good luck...

cfjan

Wow, that's a lot of spring rate!! :O

At first I was asking the shop to get me 700/900, but was told to back it down a little bit, since I only run NT-01 (a step below the like of R6 / V710 / etc.).

996FLT6

Maybe u should go with higher spring rate and easily adjust for street? Mike

cfjan

I don't really care about the street comfort.. I already told the shop that.. But they feel that 700/900 is too much and recommends 600/800.

I think the thinking is that you need to have enough tires to run stiffer setup? If the spring overpowers the tires (the grip generated is not enough to compress the springs), then that might not be ideal?

powdrhound

It took my race shop a lot of convincing for me to go to higher rates mainly due to what one reads on the forums where 600/800 or 700/900 "Rennlist" rates are the norm. I just wish I'd done it a long time ago. I see 1.3Gs in corners and up to 1.1G under braking with NT01s. On the V710s I see in excess of 1.4Gs. It's very easy to overpower soft springs and even with NT01 I was overpowering 1100/1200 rates. My car weighs 3230# without driver. You have to remember, Cups are running about 1450# rates and they are 300-400# lighter than our cars. Interestingly, my shop actually told me 1700/1800 would be an ideal all track spring rate based on the weight of my car. I settled on 1400/1500 as a compromise for a car I still drive on the street from time to time. Driving the car on the track hard, I definitely have to agree that going slightly stiffer than what I have now would be ideal but at the expense of street use. The interesting part is how shocked everyone is when they ride in my car and I tell them what rates I'm running. They can't believe how well the car rides with those rates. I have a brand new set of Eibach ERS 1100/1200 springs that I had on my JRZs for one weekend before swapping them out for my current springs. They have about 200 miles on them. You are welcome to try them if you'd like...

cfjan

Does your car have full welded in cage?

powdrhound

No, I have a factory Tequipment roll bar. My interior is basically stock GT2 with with Euro GT3 seats and harnesses.

utkinpol

My PMs are off, i still did not renew my subscription. As of rates, 1400/1500 will not be drivable in Boston. My 600/700 are fine, stiff, but drivable, but my wife hates it and does not want us to use this car for outings, ever, after i drove her on rt9 and made her teeth rattle.
To have 700 or 800 in rear is probably not very critical. Stiffer springs will reduce suspension travel length so if you are after cup car like setup then 1400/1500 will be good as you will be able to drop car really low but, well, it will not be drivable over our MA roads after that. I went low and high and left my car with a 'standard' half inch of empty space in between of fender edge and top of the tire in front and inch in rear, from the road to fender it is 25.5 inch and 26 inch in rear.

I do not remember what wheels you run on, if you use same 9/12 inch rims like on my car ask shop to put extra shims in front and may be you will be able to fit 275 rubber in front, if you like wide rubber. It is nice to run on 275/335, gives a lot of grip.

Btw this #200 split between front and rear rates came from 993 cars, it is not clear at all why it gets inherited for 996/997 cars. If i am not mistaken TPC setups cars with 900 springs front and rear, same.

cfjan

Thanks for the feedback. I did tried to PM you but it said that your mailbox is full.

The Spec 996 class runs the standard package with 700/900 springs, but I don't know where that came from either.