Need to reduce, adjust rear camber on GT3
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Need to reduce, adjust rear camber on GT3
I have searched but need a straight answer. My 6GT3 is currently at -1.4 F and -2.3 R camber. (Toe is already taken care of due to aftermarket adj. toe arms.) I will be increasing the front camber via shims.
Went to get some rear camber taken out due to new rubber (315s BFG Rival) and was shocked that stock min rear camber is -2.3!! No stock adjustment to reduce! So my question is, do I need to buy the adj. "dogdones" or rear upper control arms in order to reduce camber? Ideally I would like about -1.8 to preserve tires as this car will be 80% street, 20% track.
Last, if that is the case, which do you guys recommend? (RSS, Tarrett, GMG, USP, Agency Power)
Thank you.
Went to get some rear camber taken out due to new rubber (315s BFG Rival) and was shocked that stock min rear camber is -2.3!! No stock adjustment to reduce! So my question is, do I need to buy the adj. "dogdones" or rear upper control arms in order to reduce camber? Ideally I would like about -1.8 to preserve tires as this car will be 80% street, 20% track.
Last, if that is the case, which do you guys recommend? (RSS, Tarrett, GMG, USP, Agency Power)
Thank you.
#2
Nordschleife Master
Who told you the stock minimum is -2.3? Whoever it was, was feeding you a line. I moved to -1.5 in the rear when I went with 315 sizes no problem at all.
#3
Race Car
Without a lot of setup work from a race shop the upper dog bones should be installed at stock length to eliminate rubber in those components NOT for camber adjustment. If you use them at non-stock length for camber adjustment you have to check /set the bump curve of the suspension as it is very easy to alter when messing with the triangulated arms at the top vs. the single arm at the bottom.
#4
Nordschleife Master
upper dog bones should be installed at stock length to eliminate rubber in those components NOT for camber adjustment. If you use them at non-stock length for camber adjustment you have to check /set the bump curve of the suspension as it is very easy to alter when messing with the triangulated arms at the top vs. the single arm at the bottom.
Not sure what the draw to adj dog bones is. Maybe b/c they look cool? Me, I went the route of PMNA and installed the monoball UCA's. The PMNA units are fixed length. You should be adjusting camber from the LCA's (shims and eccentric are available to you)
#6
Advanced
Thread Starter
Man you guys rock! Prompt replies! I guess I didn't question shop bc they are considered one of the best in the area. I didn't think Porsche would spec -2.3 as min.
I don't believe I am that lowered, haven't measured but can still get a finger between rear tire and fender.
I was planning on -2.4 F and -1.7 R. Given the way the car will be driven I may even back it down a bit.
Dell, you run -1.5 R and what in the front? ( I also have 245s in front)
I don't believe I am that lowered, haven't measured but can still get a finger between rear tire and fender.
I was planning on -2.4 F and -1.7 R. Given the way the car will be driven I may even back it down a bit.
Dell, you run -1.5 R and what in the front? ( I also have 245s in front)
#7
Nordschleife Master
At my most sublime times I ran -3.5 in the front on 235's or 245's and between -1.5 to -2.0 in rear usually settling in the ballpark of -1.8. But that was when I really hustled the car around.
Now, with my paltry driving, I run in the ballpark of -1.5in F or so as most of the turns on my way to coffee are on camber
Now, with my paltry driving, I run in the ballpark of -1.5in F or so as most of the turns on my way to coffee are on camber