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Leaking caliper

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Old 10-23-2012, 03:59 PM
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Ken89911T
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Default Leaking caliper

Wondering if anyone else has had this problem, or know of a fix short of replacement. The outboard bleeder of my R front caliper persistently leaks brake fluid when hot. I replaced the bleeder valve and rubber washer that holds the dust cap. Torqued down as tight as reasonable, but still leaks.

I suspect the threads or the seat is worn/damaged. Anybody been able to repair this kind of defect?
Old 10-24-2012, 11:59 AM
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ace996
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I have the same issue, too. I also replaced the bleeders and still have a dribble. It's not alot of fluid, just a small run down the caliper after a track day, but I'd like it to be tight.
Good luck with the fix,
TomK
Old 10-24-2012, 12:10 PM
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Burger
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Call a machine shop and see if they can refinish the seat.
Old 10-24-2012, 12:29 PM
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rubber_ducky
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the threads might be damaged.
Old 10-24-2012, 02:39 PM
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Burger
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The threads are not what seals the caliper.

Old 10-24-2012, 02:49 PM
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Burger
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Had to delete the second link, it was for stripped out thread repair kits.
Old 10-24-2012, 02:53 PM
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Burger
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This is actually what I was trying to link. It replaces the existing hole in the caliper to provide a new seat.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/240-797

Would probaby still require a machine shop visit to tap a hole to fit the replacement parts.

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Old 10-24-2012, 04:03 PM
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LVDell
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As was said, the threads are not what seals the caliper. The threads are merely there to hold the bleeder in place and require minimal tightness (forgot the torque figure) when closing.
Old 02-18-2019, 07:15 AM
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spiller
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Digging up this thread to see if there is a fix for this other than replacing the caliper. One of my fronts seeps a bit of fluid at the track. My road going car did this too so seemingly a bit of an issue on the 996. Seems overtightening the bleed nipples might be the cause of this issue over time?
Old 02-20-2019, 08:13 AM
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Gofishracing
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Replace them to start- might as well go with the Speed Bleeders 10S
Old 02-20-2019, 09:52 AM
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Burger
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You can take them to a machine shop, have the seat taper milled, use a new bleed screw, done.
Old 02-21-2019, 07:32 AM
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spiller
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Originally Posted by Burger
You can take them to a machine shop, have the seat taper milled, use a new bleed screw, done.
This step comes before helicoil, correct? It would be nice if I can avoid that. I’ve so far replaced both nipples in the caliper of concern ($40 for two nipples from Porsche!). The last one I replaced at the track on the weekend but I forgot to have a good look at it before packing up at the end of the day. It was hot and my brain was not working well.
Old 02-21-2019, 09:05 AM
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Burger
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If your threads are fine, the machine shop should be able to clean up the seat without having to touch them. The threaded part is wider than the seat, so they should be able to get a small end mill to the seat without touching the threads. They will only mill the 45 degree seat by taking off the damage so new bleed screws can seal.

Your results may vary.
Old 02-21-2019, 02:14 PM
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Nickshu
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My GT3 front brakes and my C2 front brakes both seep when hot out the bleeders. I have changed bleeders, looked at seats, rebuilt calipers, tried to tighten them more cold, etc. Only solution I have come up with that works is while at the track after bleeding I tighten them down a bit when hot after my first session. Don't overdo it however with tightness as you could have problems when loosening cold to bleed later.
Old 02-22-2019, 01:07 AM
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spiller
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Quite an annoying and prevelant issue seemingly. If it wasn’t for brake fluid being so corrosive I wouldn’t be concerned (as there’s no measurable loss in braking performance) but it gets slung all over the wheel and wheel well and it’s a pain to clean.


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