Leaking caliper
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Leaking caliper
Wondering if anyone else has had this problem, or know of a fix short of replacement. The outboard bleeder of my R front caliper persistently leaks brake fluid when hot. I replaced the bleeder valve and rubber washer that holds the dust cap. Torqued down as tight as reasonable, but still leaks.
I suspect the threads or the seat is worn/damaged. Anybody been able to repair this kind of defect?
I suspect the threads or the seat is worn/damaged. Anybody been able to repair this kind of defect?
#2
I have the same issue, too. I also replaced the bleeders and still have a dribble. It's not alot of fluid, just a small run down the caliper after a track day, but I'd like it to be tight.
Good luck with the fix,
TomK
Good luck with the fix,
TomK
#7
Rennlist Member
This is actually what I was trying to link. It replaces the existing hole in the caliper to provide a new seat.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/240-797
Would probaby still require a machine shop visit to tap a hole to fit the replacement parts.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/240-797
Would probaby still require a machine shop visit to tap a hole to fit the replacement parts.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
As was said, the threads are not what seals the caliper. The threads are merely there to hold the bleeder in place and require minimal tightness (forgot the torque figure) when closing.
#9
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Digging up this thread to see if there is a fix for this other than replacing the caliper. One of my fronts seeps a bit of fluid at the track. My road going car did this too so seemingly a bit of an issue on the 996. Seems overtightening the bleed nipples might be the cause of this issue over time?
#12
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
This step comes before helicoil, correct? It would be nice if I can avoid that. I’ve so far replaced both nipples in the caliper of concern ($40 for two nipples from Porsche!). The last one I replaced at the track on the weekend but I forgot to have a good look at it before packing up at the end of the day. It was hot and my brain was not working well.
#13
Rennlist Member
If your threads are fine, the machine shop should be able to clean up the seat without having to touch them. The threaded part is wider than the seat, so they should be able to get a small end mill to the seat without touching the threads. They will only mill the 45 degree seat by taking off the damage so new bleed screws can seal.
Your results may vary.
Your results may vary.
#14
Rennlist Member
My GT3 front brakes and my C2 front brakes both seep when hot out the bleeders. I have changed bleeders, looked at seats, rebuilt calipers, tried to tighten them more cold, etc. Only solution I have come up with that works is while at the track after bleeding I tighten them down a bit when hot after my first session. Don't overdo it however with tightness as you could have problems when loosening cold to bleed later.
#15
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Quite an annoying and prevelant issue seemingly. If it wasn’t for brake fluid being so corrosive I wouldn’t be concerned (as there’s no measurable loss in braking performance) but it gets slung all over the wheel and wheel well and it’s a pain to clean.