Transmission carrier mount?!
#61
There are aftermaket options, see post #45 from below link.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...-mounts-3.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...-mounts-3.html
I didn't see this discussed in this thread but are there replacement bushings for the carrier? Why doesn't a sponsor vendor here make a soft poly bushing or look at something from powerflex? I’m changing my trans mounts this weekend and will see how easy it is to press out the old bushing. It would be great if Windrush would make some in the same material as the wevo mounts.
#62
Well the trans mounts on the car were both blown out. I put the 997 part on plus Wevo motor mounts.
Just for fun I took the original mount and tried to press out the bushing. It was simple. Standard 65mm opening. Done in about 10 mins. Not sure why there aren't all sorts of poly and rubber replacement mount options. It would take all of 10 mins to put new ones in as you can see the opening is cambered to help center replacement bushings.
Just for fun I took the original mount and tried to press out the bushing. It was simple. Standard 65mm opening. Done in about 10 mins. Not sure why there aren't all sorts of poly and rubber replacement mount options. It would take all of 10 mins to put new ones in as you can see the opening is cambered to help center replacement bushings.
#64
There are aftermaket options, see post #45 from below link.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...-mounts-3.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...-mounts-3.html
#65
#67
Full solids have been known to cause issues with knock sensors... There was a discussion about this a while back on either renntrack or 6speed in the turbo section.
And speaking of... I had the rubber in my mounts crack on the 996TT and I ended up replacing it with an OEM 997 piece that seemed lo last for mine, but everyone drives their cars at different degrees of "Hard". My weakness was dog bones. Went thru multiple aftermarket aluminum heim spacers.
Mike
And speaking of... I had the rubber in my mounts crack on the 996TT and I ended up replacing it with an OEM 997 piece that seemed lo last for mine, but everyone drives their cars at different degrees of "Hard". My weakness was dog bones. Went thru multiple aftermarket aluminum heim spacers.
Mike
#69
Finally got the Torque Solution transmission mount on the car a couple of days ago, to me it looks like a very nice product. The work needed to swap the mount has been covered in this thread already, but I'll just put in my information anyway and hopefully there might be a tip or two for the next person doing this.
First up, here are the original mount still on the car after the rear plastic cover has been removed under the car:
To remove the old mount, I supported the transmission with a piece of wood on a jack. This made it possible to move the transmission (and engine) slightly up and down, and I found that I needed to lift the transmission slightly up to get the old mount out. But before that, I neede to lower it a little bit to make it easier get out the bolts that goes through the bushings. It's best to get them out last, after the two nuts on the top, and the two bolts that are low and foreward.
Old mount out:
Old bushing had started to crack very slightly, but was still in good working order. Car has 20k miles, 12 years old:
Both mounts:
Bushing on the Torque Solution mount:
Torque Solution mount has the 997 part number.
These two parts was transfered over from original mount:
New mount in. I recommend putting in the two big bolts that goes through the bushings before the nuts and smaller bolts, although the two nuts can be loosely fitted first also. I needed to move the mount slightly around to get the bolts threaded on the transmission itself, so putting on the two smaller bolts first and/or thightening the nuts is not a good idea. Smaller bolts and nuts are 65Nm, big bolts are 85Nm.
Had a drive on the streets afterwards, and no difference whatsoever was noticed. No extra noise or vibration. The new bushings are much stiffer than the original ones, so it should be better on track and with no downside.
I will also commend on the excellent service I received from Mike at AWD Motorsports.
First up, here are the original mount still on the car after the rear plastic cover has been removed under the car:
To remove the old mount, I supported the transmission with a piece of wood on a jack. This made it possible to move the transmission (and engine) slightly up and down, and I found that I needed to lift the transmission slightly up to get the old mount out. But before that, I neede to lower it a little bit to make it easier get out the bolts that goes through the bushings. It's best to get them out last, after the two nuts on the top, and the two bolts that are low and foreward.
Old mount out:
Old bushing had started to crack very slightly, but was still in good working order. Car has 20k miles, 12 years old:
Both mounts:
Bushing on the Torque Solution mount:
Torque Solution mount has the 997 part number.
These two parts was transfered over from original mount:
New mount in. I recommend putting in the two big bolts that goes through the bushings before the nuts and smaller bolts, although the two nuts can be loosely fitted first also. I needed to move the mount slightly around to get the bolts threaded on the transmission itself, so putting on the two smaller bolts first and/or thightening the nuts is not a good idea. Smaller bolts and nuts are 65Nm, big bolts are 85Nm.
Had a drive on the streets afterwards, and no difference whatsoever was noticed. No extra noise or vibration. The new bushings are much stiffer than the original ones, so it should be better on track and with no downside.
I will also commend on the excellent service I received from Mike at AWD Motorsports.
Last edited by runet; 05-21-2012 at 04:56 PM. Reason: Corrected name of vendor
#70
Rennlist Member
Excellent write up, thanks!
#71
By the way, i have questions. If you have free time, would you reply?
Q1. Are two brown parts rubber? It is better to replace at the same time?
Q2. Is it possible to pull out M12x100 bolt straight? I worry about the thick pipe (hose?).
#72
1. It's some kind of rubber yes, I belive they are there as some sort of cushion/damper. I don't think they will ever wear, I could not see any kind of wear on mine and would not worry about replacing these. Maybe someone with high milage on their cars could give some more information on this.
2. Yes, but it is easier if you can lower the transmission just a little bit to clear the hoses a little easier. The hose is soft enough to be squeezed so that you can pull out the bolt anyway though.
You should use some (thin) protction between the hose and the spanner/tool you use when working on the two big bolts, I think that is more of an issue than pulling the bolt itself as your tool will be in a jam between the bolt and the hose. But these hoses are thick and strong and you can work them quite a bit.
#73
Race Car
The factory mount on my car was still OK when I had everything apart recently to have the coolant fittings welded. I filled my factory mount with silicone at that time to give a little extra support and hopefully keep it from failing down the road. So far soo good. No extra vibration from mine either.