New thinking on old topic? GT3 Clutch Replace
#1
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It's not slipping yet, but the pedal travels almost all the way out before the clutch makes a weak grab. Does that sound like it's about done?
-2004 car with 28K miles on it.
-Car will see enough around-town/ stop-go action that the LWFW may not be a good option.
-10-15 track days/year likely for next few years.
What would be my best option for clutch and should I not dismiss the LWFW?
Any other work I should consider at the same time?
I've looked back through the old posts, but opinions are all over the place. I thought I'd ask the guys who've been driving these cars for a long time now!
-2004 car with 28K miles on it.
-Car will see enough around-town/ stop-go action that the LWFW may not be a good option.
-10-15 track days/year likely for next few years.
What would be my best option for clutch and should I not dismiss the LWFW?
Any other work I should consider at the same time?
I've looked back through the old posts, but opinions are all over the place. I thought I'd ask the guys who've been driving these cars for a long time now!
#2
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goto suncoast or carnewal.com, both board sponsors
get their lwfw, it's 6gt3RS version. it's pretty street friendly, not racing LWFW
get their lwfw, it's 6gt3RS version. it's pretty street friendly, not racing LWFW
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If it's the 6 puck type clutch plate forget using that on the street. It's an on/off switch. U can't go easy on clutch it's bam off u go of u do otherwise god awful noise and occasional stalling(like alot). Mike
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#8
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We are talking about 2 different things here: the clutch and the flywheel. There are the stock, RS and Cup. I have the rs flywheel and the cup clutch. good combo, still works on the street and great at the track. Although I don't drive on the street...ever.
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So the Cup clutch is not the puck type?
I'd imagine that a lighter flywheel is still manageable, while the puck type clutch would be difficult for smooth engagement.. so the most aggressive (but still streetable) combo would be Cup flywheel and non-puck style clutch..
I'd imagine that a lighter flywheel is still manageable, while the puck type clutch would be difficult for smooth engagement.. so the most aggressive (but still streetable) combo would be Cup flywheel and non-puck style clutch..
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you cant use the cup flywheel, it's a different size and you'll need to change to pulley and something else I can't remember. I tried to do it but was told not to. Use the RS LWFW and the RS pulley
#13
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Are these the correct part numbers for the 6 CUP clutch system?
Flywheel 964.102.239.81
Ring Gear 964.114.143.31
Bolts 928.102.151.01
Grooved Ball Bearing 931.102.111.00
Clutch Disk 996.116.013.91
Pressure Plate 996.116.027.75
PP Screws 900.067.103.02
Flywheel 964.102.239.81
Ring Gear 964.114.143.31
Bolts 928.102.151.01
Grooved Ball Bearing 931.102.111.00
Clutch Disk 996.116.013.91
Pressure Plate 996.116.027.75
PP Screws 900.067.103.02
#14
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Got it.. thanks.. !
There's some aftermarket pulley that's even lighter.. if one wants to go even further.. !
This will be a "while in there" type of thing for me.. when I need a clutch replacement..
There's some aftermarket pulley that's even lighter.. if one wants to go even further.. !
This will be a "while in there" type of thing for me.. when I need a clutch replacement..
#15
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unless you tow your car everywhere, do not use super lwfw. you will stall it or burn it.
even with factory RS stuff, my 07 08 10 RS, when i try to back into a very tight clutch, i either stall of i burn the clutch, not just me, quite a few ppl stall it. so i just drive head in first now.
watch how cup cars buck on hot pit. it's very hard to taxi
even with factory RS stuff, my 07 08 10 RS, when i try to back into a very tight clutch, i either stall of i burn the clutch, not just me, quite a few ppl stall it. so i just drive head in first now.
watch how cup cars buck on hot pit. it's very hard to taxi