Another brake question
06-21-2010, 09:51 PM
#16
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I used Hawk Blues and Black on a Rx-7... the dust generated by these at the time was CAUSTIC beyond belief. If the dust mixed with rain car and wheels were stained pretty badly.
Is HT10 dust similar to this?
Is HT10 dust similar to this?
Never had a problem with HT-10s or DTC70's.
06-23-2010, 05:51 PM
#17
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I have cross referenced a few places and it turns out the Centric rotors are drilled anyways. There was some confusion for me as I initially looked into it, now there is not.
The Tire Rack cost for Centrics is above what you can buy Porsche drilled rears anyways but therein lies another question anyways.
What is the exact difference between OEM, Cup and thirdly "Motorsport" equipment and specifically rear rotors.
Are cups and motorsports the same? How do they differ from OEM?
Lastly, as we appear to be stuck with drilled rears unless you spend big $, we all know they crack vs wear out.
Pagid says this in my recent conversation with them. They are drilled to save weight. The drilled OR slotted rotors perform better gas evacuation and removing pad dust than solid. We pretty much knew this but there are some who say modern pads don't outgass. They do. Too bad we can't get an ATE priced slotted for the rear. While heavier than drilled they last longer and thats what I want: cheaper and better even if they weigh a bit more.
Regarding rear drilled rotor cracking Pagid asks why we dont just run a 19f/29r combo vs 29f/14r.
The 19/29 would give the same relative braking differential but be more rotor friendly. Perhaps the initial bite etc is less but it is an interesting question.
Any Pagid 19f/29r users out there chime in because I may be running OEM, Cup or Moptorsort rotors on the rear, whatever the heck the difference really is for the forseeable future.
I know not all of this is earth shattering knews guys but an update on the original post.
Dennis
The Tire Rack cost for Centrics is above what you can buy Porsche drilled rears anyways but therein lies another question anyways.
What is the exact difference between OEM, Cup and thirdly "Motorsport" equipment and specifically rear rotors.
Are cups and motorsports the same? How do they differ from OEM?
Lastly, as we appear to be stuck with drilled rears unless you spend big $, we all know they crack vs wear out.
Pagid says this in my recent conversation with them. They are drilled to save weight. The drilled OR slotted rotors perform better gas evacuation and removing pad dust than solid. We pretty much knew this but there are some who say modern pads don't outgass. They do. Too bad we can't get an ATE priced slotted for the rear. While heavier than drilled they last longer and thats what I want: cheaper and better even if they weigh a bit more.
Regarding rear drilled rotor cracking Pagid asks why we dont just run a 19f/29r combo vs 29f/14r.
The 19/29 would give the same relative braking differential but be more rotor friendly. Perhaps the initial bite etc is less but it is an interesting question.
Any Pagid 19f/29r users out there chime in because I may be running OEM, Cup or Moptorsort rotors on the rear, whatever the heck the difference really is for the forseeable future.
I know not all of this is earth shattering knews guys but an update on the original post.
Dennis
06-23-2010, 06:50 PM
#19
One thing I noticed when I got the 997Cup rotors (350mm- pccb replacement) was that the width of the e-brake "drum" was less than the OEM. It actually allows more air to flow internally by exposing the fins and probably makes them lighter. Looks like it only covers 1/2 the brake shoes but does not seem to affect the e-brake. Lou
