SuspensionTuning a Gt 3
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Charleston, West Virginia
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SuspensionTuning a Gt 3
Hi,
I see alot of posts about camber adjustment and suspension tuning in GT 3's. Is the stock GT 3 you get not well tuned ? I live in Charleston WV and do not have a place to take a car like this other than the dealer I bought it from. Would they be able to do this sort of work or should you need to find a specialized shop for that ?
Thanks Alot
Rick
I see alot of posts about camber adjustment and suspension tuning in GT 3's. Is the stock GT 3 you get not well tuned ? I live in Charleston WV and do not have a place to take a car like this other than the dealer I bought it from. Would they be able to do this sort of work or should you need to find a specialized shop for that ?
Thanks Alot
Rick
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#4
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I know this subject has been beaten to death but I remember reading here about a setup that is very good.
can anyone point me to that post. I going to a DE soon and the car needs another alignment and ride
hight adjustment.
can anyone point me to that post. I going to a DE soon and the car needs another alignment and ride
hight adjustment.
#5
The alignment you will need will depend upon your individual needs and use of the car. Look at your current tire wear pattern and mfg, get an alignment reading of your current settings, look at the alignment options used on the board and decide which is the best compromise for your use and tire wear.
In my case I was wearing out the outside edge of my MPS2's, decided upon the Roland Kussumaul settings and have been pleased with tire wear since. Have over 7K miles and 6 track days with better than 60%/40% front/rear tread depth.
The wealth of knowledge on this board really helped me to make an educated decision.
BTW, thanks all!
In my case I was wearing out the outside edge of my MPS2's, decided upon the Roland Kussumaul settings and have been pleased with tire wear since. Have over 7K miles and 6 track days with better than 60%/40% front/rear tread depth.
The wealth of knowledge on this board really helped me to make an educated decision.
BTW, thanks all!
#6
Burning Brakes
I happen to have the infamous "Roland Kussumaul" settings... This is what I use. Here you go!
GT3 settings
Front axle:
Camber: -2.5º
Max camber difference, left/right: 5'
Toe total: +5'
Toe difference at 20° lock: -1°20' +/- 30'
Caster: 8° +/- 30'
Max caster difference, left/right: 30'
Front height: 115mm
Swaybar – 1 from hard
Rear axle:
Toe total: 35’ +/- 2'
Max toe difference, left/right: 5'
Camber: -2.3° +/- 5'
Max camber difference, left/right: 10'
Rear height: 128mm
Swaybar – 1 from hard
GT3 settings
Front axle:
Camber: -2.5º
Max camber difference, left/right: 5'
Toe total: +5'
Toe difference at 20° lock: -1°20' +/- 30'
Caster: 8° +/- 30'
Max caster difference, left/right: 30'
Front height: 115mm
Swaybar – 1 from hard
Rear axle:
Toe total: 35’ +/- 2'
Max toe difference, left/right: 5'
Camber: -2.3° +/- 5'
Max camber difference, left/right: 10'
Rear height: 128mm
Swaybar – 1 from hard
#7
Burning Brakes
I also had this attached to the file. Dunno who Johnson is, but the settings look about the same...
JOHNSONS ALIGNMENT SETTING 19/2/04
FRONT
Camber -2.5º -2.5º
Caster +9.2 +9
Toe in total 1/16”
Fender Height 25 1/4”
REAR
Camber -.2.4º -2.4º
Toe in total 3/32
Fender Height 25”
JOHNSONS ALIGNMENT SETTING 19/2/04
FRONT
Camber -2.5º -2.5º
Caster +9.2 +9
Toe in total 1/16”
Fender Height 25 1/4”
REAR
Camber -.2.4º -2.4º
Toe in total 3/32
Fender Height 25”
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#11
You ask a simple question, but it is very complicated.
How much track vs. How much street?
First, the car is set up for the street not the track. So, 80%+ street driving - I would not change a thing. Just make sure the alignment is correct.
If you run 50/50% then you might want to compromise on set up. If you run 90% track and 10% street (me), you might want to go to an agressive track setting (not RK settings). Ride height can be adjusted lower - but everything must be in balance. Change the adjustment on one thing and if you don't counteract that change correctly you can have problems. Corner balanced, complete realignment, changes to springs, shocks, ride height, sway bar settings must all be considered together. Then, test and experiment. A driver that tends to early apex vs. late will have a different feeling driving the same car.
The settings you get on this board are a good place to start, but don't think you are done! BTW, if you don't have full monoball suspension you will have to realign your car at least three times per year if you track frequently. Just the way it is. Read some Carrol Smith books!!!
How much track vs. How much street?
First, the car is set up for the street not the track. So, 80%+ street driving - I would not change a thing. Just make sure the alignment is correct.
If you run 50/50% then you might want to compromise on set up. If you run 90% track and 10% street (me), you might want to go to an agressive track setting (not RK settings). Ride height can be adjusted lower - but everything must be in balance. Change the adjustment on one thing and if you don't counteract that change correctly you can have problems. Corner balanced, complete realignment, changes to springs, shocks, ride height, sway bar settings must all be considered together. Then, test and experiment. A driver that tends to early apex vs. late will have a different feeling driving the same car.
The settings you get on this board are a good place to start, but don't think you are done! BTW, if you don't have full monoball suspension you will have to realign your car at least three times per year if you track frequently. Just the way it is. Read some Carrol Smith books!!!
#13
Rennlist Member
I've seen those images, but can one really slide under the car to make those measurements?
(I have changed by oil without jacking the car up, so there is more that can be reached than one might guess.)
(I have changed by oil without jacking the car up, so there is more that can be reached than one might guess.)
#14
No, but you can reach under the car and measure with a locking tape measure. Relock the tape at different lengths until you get an accurate reading. Ideally you need the car sitting on a flat surface, jiggle the front and rear of the car up and down a few times to settle the suspension, include some ballast for the driver and fill the fuel tank to some chosen point.
#15
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by cosmos
Stick with Stock, or RS ride height 115mm front 128mm rear
I think my sway in the front is one hole from stiffest(1 hole left to go), the rear is the same. 1 hole left...
Thanks