Engine R&R Time
04-08-2018, 09:46 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Engine R&R Time
A few questions:
1. What is the average shop time (hours) to drop and reinstall the engine & trans?
2. Is it possible to do this without a lift?
I did this with a 1990's C4 in my garage on 24" jack stands. I needed 30", but didn't know that until the engine was down and I couldn't roll it out.
That was my first big project. I had that engine down in about 8 to 10 hours. I'm sure the GT3 will be more work, but I'm trying to determine if I should even consider this or just punt and pay the shop time.
1. What is the average shop time (hours) to drop and reinstall the engine & trans?
2. Is it possible to do this without a lift?
I did this with a 1990's C4 in my garage on 24" jack stands. I needed 30", but didn't know that until the engine was down and I couldn't roll it out.
That was my first big project. I had that engine down in about 8 to 10 hours. I'm sure the GT3 will be more work, but I'm trying to determine if I should even consider this or just punt and pay the shop time.
04-08-2018, 09:49 AM
#2
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Most engine RR shop quotes will be 20 hours. Actual time is less, based on experience, set-up, and tools.
04-08-2018, 10:00 AM
#3
mezger motor comes out relativley easy. mine is a turbo version heavily modded but i drop it in less than 5 hrs. it can be done without a lift you will need to crib the car to about 36" to clear the car. just about everything stays installed on the engine. easier to drop the trans /motor as a combo . harbor freight has a 1000 lb hyd table that works nicely for this. used mine all the time.
you can leave bthe a/c compressor attached to the lines (if you have a/c) and lay it outside the rear bumper. no need to discharge it. disconnect the p/s lines bag them and keep them elevated to prevent leakage. coolant is the worst part. even after draining the coolant reservoir and draining from the plugs under the engine when you remove the 2 main hoses to the engine coolant splashes everywhere. cant be avoided. if you have the swaben coolant purge kit you may be able to draw enough of a vacuum to drain most of the coolant
common handtools are all thats needed. 13,14,15,16,18,19 mm wrenches and sockets both deepm and shallow well some allen wrenches and assorted screwdrivers do most of the work.
you can leave bthe a/c compressor attached to the lines (if you have a/c) and lay it outside the rear bumper. no need to discharge it. disconnect the p/s lines bag them and keep them elevated to prevent leakage. coolant is the worst part. even after draining the coolant reservoir and draining from the plugs under the engine when you remove the 2 main hoses to the engine coolant splashes everywhere. cant be avoided. if you have the swaben coolant purge kit you may be able to draw enough of a vacuum to drain most of the coolant
common handtools are all thats needed. 13,14,15,16,18,19 mm wrenches and sockets both deepm and shallow well some allen wrenches and assorted screwdrivers do most of the work.
04-08-2018, 10:08 AM
#4
Race Car
8-10 hours each way is prob what you are going to be quoted by a shop.
Ive done it before without a lift in my own garage and as long as you have patience and an understanding of what you are doing it’s teally not that hard. First go around I think I had it down on just over 7 hours. I bet I could get it down to 5-6 hours if I had to do it again.
As you mention it’s all about the right tools. I borrowed a motorcycle jack to support the motor. I also made the same mistake you did and didn’t have y’all enough jack stands so while the motor was on the ground I couldn’t roll it out from under the car. A couple of taller jack stands and two really strong friends later and the rear of the car was sitting higher and I could get the motor out.
Theres nothing you won’t be able to do on the car after you go through this process, I take pride in the fact that I know this thing inside and out
For what it’s worth I did tranny only removal not too long ago and I think it would have been easier to just do both engine and tranny again in that situation on the floor with jack stands.
Thankfully i I know have access to a lift moving forward!
Ive done it before without a lift in my own garage and as long as you have patience and an understanding of what you are doing it’s teally not that hard. First go around I think I had it down on just over 7 hours. I bet I could get it down to 5-6 hours if I had to do it again.
As you mention it’s all about the right tools. I borrowed a motorcycle jack to support the motor. I also made the same mistake you did and didn’t have y’all enough jack stands so while the motor was on the ground I couldn’t roll it out from under the car. A couple of taller jack stands and two really strong friends later and the rear of the car was sitting higher and I could get the motor out.
Theres nothing you won’t be able to do on the car after you go through this process, I take pride in the fact that I know this thing inside and out
For what it’s worth I did tranny only removal not too long ago and I think it would have been easier to just do both engine and tranny again in that situation on the floor with jack stands.
Thankfully i I know have access to a lift moving forward!
04-08-2018, 11:45 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks!!!
This sounds encouraging. I was figuring that DIY would be better as you become more intimate with the car and you save a lot of shop time.
The hydraulic lift table sounds like a winner. Will it hold both engine and transmission?
At 128K miles it needs the rest of the pipes welded, clutch, LSD, and a host of other associated maintenance to freshen it up.
Last time I did this on the 964 I made my own transmission and engine cradles out of wood. Put hydraulic jacks under each and prayed that it would not tip! Scary! But each had their own set of wheels, so after I dropped them as a unit, I unbolted engine and trans on the floor and rolled them apart. Easy to realign, too.
This sounds encouraging. I was figuring that DIY would be better as you become more intimate with the car and you save a lot of shop time.
The hydraulic lift table sounds like a winner. Will it hold both engine and transmission?
At 128K miles it needs the rest of the pipes welded, clutch, LSD, and a host of other associated maintenance to freshen it up.
Last time I did this on the 964 I made my own transmission and engine cradles out of wood. Put hydraulic jacks under each and prayed that it would not tip! Scary! But each had their own set of wheels, so after I dropped them as a unit, I unbolted engine and trans on the floor and rolled them apart. Easy to realign, too.
04-08-2018, 12:37 PM
#6
table easily holds both. i use atv straps at the front of the motor and some wood on the table to steady the engine. heres a random video on engine removal to give you an idea . look for a 20% coupon from h/f when you buy the table
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04-08-2018, 11:40 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Marv
The amount of torque that must be on those floor bolts of that Maxjax is scary!
If even one side fails...
If even one side fails...
04-09-2018, 02:54 PM
#13
+1 on the MaxJax. Easy to work on the car. Floor bolts on this are no different than any other 2-post lift. Re-torque every year or so. I think they are only like 120 ft-lbs. Pays for itself in under a year if you are handy.
-td
-td
04-09-2018, 03:29 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I like the idea of a removable lift as my garage is way, way too stuffed as it is. I may seriously consider this after a major clean-out.
04-09-2018, 03:50 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
Regular drop in concrete anchors, we poured 3 real footings so the lift can be used in 2 bays. Totally portable !
