Problem with engine block - has anyone seen this?
#16
The early 3.6 is $4814 but none available worldwide. They would need to manufacture it first. Sort of the same situation as with the 6GT3 wheel carriers which have been unavailable for the last year. The later 997 3.6 case is $7016 with a few available in Germany...
#17
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Well, that simplifies things a bit... When I asked the parts guy, he said that it would be coming from Germany, and mumbled something about the block fitting the 996 GT3, I made the mistake of assuming and not checking.
Ray
Ray
Last edited by rbahr; 02-07-2018 at 10:26 PM.
#18
The last event last summer, I had a problem with my PP destroying itself, lots of vibration and the oil leak started as I pulled the car onto the trailer.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-gt3-forum/1024747-was-hard-shifting-now-root-cause.html
Ray
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-gt3-forum/1024747-was-hard-shifting-now-root-cause.html
Ray
Aren't there other cracks inside the clutch housing or whatever? Why don't you explore the full extent of the damage?
<<<or are there hidden cracks that are in fact being stressed by the engine stand??>>>
(just my opinion. I'm not there and I'm not the expert )
Last edited by black04; 02-07-2018 at 09:01 PM.
#19
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Hi Black04,
Actually 'doing winter maintenance' for me usually means: putting the car up on the lift, take a lot of things apart, and hope they all go back together. The car is up on the lift, and apart for the winter months, and for me maintenance is pretty extensive (and expensive). Back in my Subaru days it was generally building a new motor... This was to pull the motor / tranny and replace the clutch, that became replace the tranny bell housing since the bad clutch almost cut the original off, THAT became to tear the motor down due to the crack - I had thought it was something simple like the oil tank leaking... I WAS going to add shock pots, build some electronics to read and analyze the data, measure / fix bump, ...
That said, I do need to work on the sarcasm indicator though since there was some. I already have the tranny apart due to the damage from the PP, the motor is a whole different matter - was not planning that.
That said, when things are apart, I will be replacing all wear items, fixing the case, and having a proper inspection by smart folks. I will also have the case checked, line bored if necessary...
I have hung many 911 (and other) motors on these or similar stands with no damage - I understand that I started with some here, but I expect the motor to be mostly apart by next week, depending on my work schedule (which has nothing to do with cars...)
Ray
Actually 'doing winter maintenance' for me usually means: putting the car up on the lift, take a lot of things apart, and hope they all go back together. The car is up on the lift, and apart for the winter months, and for me maintenance is pretty extensive (and expensive). Back in my Subaru days it was generally building a new motor... This was to pull the motor / tranny and replace the clutch, that became replace the tranny bell housing since the bad clutch almost cut the original off, THAT became to tear the motor down due to the crack - I had thought it was something simple like the oil tank leaking... I WAS going to add shock pots, build some electronics to read and analyze the data, measure / fix bump, ...
That said, I do need to work on the sarcasm indicator though since there was some. I already have the tranny apart due to the damage from the PP, the motor is a whole different matter - was not planning that.
That said, when things are apart, I will be replacing all wear items, fixing the case, and having a proper inspection by smart folks. I will also have the case checked, line bored if necessary...
I have hung many 911 (and other) motors on these or similar stands with no damage - I understand that I started with some here, but I expect the motor to be mostly apart by next week, depending on my work schedule (which has nothing to do with cars...)
Ray
#20
Hey Ray, not sure what pressure plate you used but my understanding is the rivets are the weak point in those those things. When those crack or break, carnage can ensue. I’m not sure if that was your case or not. I’ve had very good luck with the Sachs Motorsports 487 heavy duty PP. It is a high clamp version of the bolted 4.0 pressure plate. No rivets there.
#21
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Hi John,
I used the 2 spring riveted PP. Wish I had known. I went and bought the fancy bolted one - which I now want to sell since I picked up a nice Tilton setup. This assembly had 3K miles on it before it failed. It destroyed the Bellhousing and cracked the block...
Ray
I used the 2 spring riveted PP. Wish I had known. I went and bought the fancy bolted one - which I now want to sell since I picked up a nice Tilton setup. This assembly had 3K miles on it before it failed. It destroyed the Bellhousing and cracked the block...
Ray
#22
Hi Black04,
Actually 'doing winter maintenance' for me usually means: putting the car up on the lift, take a lot of things apart, and hope they all go back together. The car is up on the lift, and apart for the winter months, and for me maintenance is pretty extensive (and expensive). Back in my Subaru days it was generally building a new motor... This was to pull the motor / tranny and replace the clutch, that became replace the tranny bell housing since the bad clutch almost cut the original off, THAT became to tear the motor down due to the crack - I had thought it was something simple like the oil tank leaking... I WAS going to add shock pots, build some electronics to read and analyze the data, measure / fix bump, ...
That said, I do need to work on the sarcasm indicator though since there was some. I already have the tranny apart due to the damage from the PP, the motor is a whole different matter - was not planning that.
That said, when things are apart, I will be replacing all wear items, fixing the case, and having a proper inspection by smart folks. I will also have the case checked, line bored if necessary...
I have hung many 911 (and other) motors on these or similar stands with no damage - I understand that I started with some here, but I expect the motor to be mostly apart by next week, depending on my work schedule (which has nothing to do with cars...)
Ray
Actually 'doing winter maintenance' for me usually means: putting the car up on the lift, take a lot of things apart, and hope they all go back together. The car is up on the lift, and apart for the winter months, and for me maintenance is pretty extensive (and expensive). Back in my Subaru days it was generally building a new motor... This was to pull the motor / tranny and replace the clutch, that became replace the tranny bell housing since the bad clutch almost cut the original off, THAT became to tear the motor down due to the crack - I had thought it was something simple like the oil tank leaking... I WAS going to add shock pots, build some electronics to read and analyze the data, measure / fix bump, ...
That said, I do need to work on the sarcasm indicator though since there was some. I already have the tranny apart due to the damage from the PP, the motor is a whole different matter - was not planning that.
That said, when things are apart, I will be replacing all wear items, fixing the case, and having a proper inspection by smart folks. I will also have the case checked, line bored if necessary...
I have hung many 911 (and other) motors on these or similar stands with no damage - I understand that I started with some here, but I expect the motor to be mostly apart by next week, depending on my work schedule (which has nothing to do with cars...)
Ray
So you've rebuilt your engine before? WOW!!!!!
I see now, the pressure plate damaged the transmission case or bell housing.and somehow in-directly damaging the engine case.
Hopefully no hidden damage inside the case. Good luck
Keep us posted
#23
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Hi Black04,
Actually, I have never worked on a GT3 motor, have worked on older 911's, 914's, and 944T motors. I have rebuilt my transmission once before.
Does anyone know what I can use for rod bolts - would prefer ARP, but they don't have a part # for the GT3? The OEM MS part is ~ $170 per and I need 12
Actually, I have never worked on a GT3 motor, have worked on older 911's, 914's, and 944T motors. I have rebuilt my transmission once before.
Does anyone know what I can use for rod bolts - would prefer ARP, but they don't have a part # for the GT3? The OEM MS part is ~ $170 per and I need 12
#24
Rennlist Member
Ask Greg Loles; Racing is expensive...
I'd call Don at EBS.
I'd call Don at EBS.