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The 997TT rear discs are a direct bolt on for the 996 GT3 rears, when going from ceramic to steel discs.
997 352 406 02 right rear
997 352 405 02 left rear
Sebro has a slotted version which are really nice. # 909384C (right rear) and # 909383C (left rear)
Thanks for the rotor advice...mine go in next week. I did sell the 993 to a chap in Orange County. It is being maintained by Hergesheimer Motorsports, a great shop. The once worked on the 993 when I was in the OC on a regular basis.
Re. WSIR, you'll be in Dan's camp, great choice. I'll have my trailer nearby to the west of the "House of Charmin", aka, the Turn 1 crapper. I am running in the Time Trial group, how about you? This will be my first time at the track with the GT3..same weight as the 993, but 100 more HP...I will be chilling. Got to learn the car.
Indeed they were. Had the manifolds over at the master welder's shop, my local mechanic went with them. The manifolds and pipes had been soaking in the parts cleaner...but were dry when they performed the "acid test". The welder barely waved his torch over one of the pipes...he decided to pull on it.....out it came with minimal effort. The old glue was in powder form. Was it the parts cleaner? Or, were these pipes on there way to a failure? Thankfully, we'll never know.
I will have the pipes welded using the pipes from the BBI kit, and have the elbows pinned.
Thanks for the rotor advice...mine go in next week. I did sell the 993 to a chap in Orange County. It is being maintained by Hergesheimer Motorsports, a great shop. The once worked on the 993 when I was in the OC on a regular basis.
Re. WSIR, you'll be in Dan's camp, great choice. I'll have my trailer nearby to the west of the "House of Charmin", aka, the Turn 1 crapper. I am running in the Time Trial group, how about you? This will be my first time at the track with the GT3..same weight as the 993, but 100 more HP...I will be chilling. Got to learn the car.
Coming from a 993 I found it didn't take long to acclimate to the GT3. It will fit like a glove.
The 996 GT3 is a great car for the track, another GT3 will be there too.
We met a couple of times in the past, I have the silver 996TT and will be running in M3 class. I figure the same class for you too. Right?
Great that the POC got rid of the almost 60 alphabet soup car classifications, TT is down to 14 classes (non-GT). Now there will be real competition, instead of winning your car class with being the only one in it (aka 1st Place Participation Trophy).
With the open passing now in TT1, I am going to suggest at the drivers meeting that anyone running 1:35 -1:36 or under, grid on the left (faster cars) and 1:37 and over on the right (slower cars) when we go to the practice session. Also, the lead car makes sure that all cars are on the track before dropping the hammer, since the first lap is run under "yellow" anyway. With 26 drivers registered as of today, it will ease the congestion.
Last time I had to navigate through a whole slew of BSR's and newbies for around 15 minutes, even after pulling off the track for space.
With the open passing now in TT1, I am going to suggest at the drivers meeting that anyone running 1:35 -1:36 or under, grid on the left (faster cars) and 1:37 and over on the right (slower cars) when we go to the practice session. Also, the lead car makes sure that all cars are on the track before dropping the hammer, since the first lap is run under "yellow" anyway. With 26 drivers registered as of today, it will ease the congestion.
Last time I had to navigate through a whole slew of BSR's and newbies for around 15 minutes, even after pulling off the track for space.
Back in the day, the first session established the "pecking order", could start left side/right side as you have suggested. Then on the next practice session, you grid according to your time the previous session...this goes on throughout the weekend. For what you pay for the event, you should expect this sort of order...
Not sure if I read you are doing motor and tranny mounts but this was a big help for my GT3 particularly when shifting from 2 to 3rd and downshifting thru same. Semi solid engine mts and Tarret trans mt and you are golden!
the slippery slope begins ..enjoy the ride. You will have fun in the 6gt3
Not sure if I read you are doing motor and tranny mounts but this was a big help for my GT3 particularly when shifting from 2 to 3rd and downshifting thru same. Semi solid engine mts and Tarret trans mt and you are golden!
the slippery slope begins ..enjoy the ride. You will have fun in the 6gt3
Yes, the car I bought turned out to have a cracked trans mount, so the shop replaced those (with Cantrell 60A sport mounts) and put in new hydraulic motor mounts.
I went back and forth a little on the hydraulic vs semi-solid, 60A vs 85A etc, but in the end, since the car will probably be mostly street driven at least for a while, I went with the shop's recommendations.
They can always be changed later on as I accelerate down the slippery slope.
So, my car is ready for a shipper to pick it up. Coolant lines pinned, Guard LSD, aforementioned mounts, hoses, seals, water pump, plugs, coils, throw-out bearing, rear main seal, coolant expansion tank, front fender liners, an oil leak fixed.
It turned out the car has a fairly new OEM clutch with p/n through 997.2 GT3. The clutch does not have springs - what is the significance of that? The DMF and pressure plate in the car were also in very good shape and so we decided to leave them alone.
And the other items the car came with - Cargraphics exhaust, EVOMSit tune, Pagid brake pads, roll cage, short shifter, metal pedal covers - should make it a fun experience.
Today I'm down a bit because I realized that when I register this thing, I'm going to get socked with 6% tax on what I paid for it. Rather a large expense I kind of neglected to consider.
Yes, the car I bought turned out to have a cracked trans mount, so the shop replaced those (with Cantrell 60A sport mounts) and put in new hydraulic motor mounts.
I went back and forth a little on the hydraulic vs semi-solid, 60A vs 85A etc, but in the end, since the car will probably be mostly street driven at least for a while, I went with the shop's recommendations.
They can always be changed later on as I accelerate down the slippery slope.
So, my car is ready for a shipper to pick it up. Coolant lines pinned, Guard LSD, aforementioned mounts, hoses, seals, water pump, plugs, coils, throw-out bearing, rear main seal, coolant expansion tank, front fender liners, an oil leak fixed.
It turned out the car has a fairly new OEM clutch with p/n through 997.2 GT3. The clutch does not have springs - what is the significance of that? The DMF and pressure plate in the car were also in very good shape and so we decided to leave them alone.
And the other items the car came with - Cargraphics exhaust, EVOMSit tune, Pagid brake pads, roll cage, short shifter, metal pedal covers - should make it a fun experience.
Today I'm down a bit because I realized that when I register this thing, I'm going to get socked with 6% tax on what I paid for it. Rather a large expense I kind of neglected to consider.
She's a beaut, you'll love it. My 15% tax on purchase should make you feel better
the DMF makes heel and toe a little slow, a LWFW is a nice improvement...just saying ;-)
Yes, I've been told that and was strongly considering it. If the DMF was rather worn I probably would have gone LWFW. But the DMF turned out to have been recently replaced.
The shop felt that with LWFW and solid or semi-solid mounts that the comfort/noise level would be getting up there for a street car.
I actually think I'd be fine with it, but there's no harm in starting stock and working up to those things. Plus it saved a little $ on the ever expanding budget.
01-26-2018, 12:38 PM
