Problem with ignition key
#1
Problem with ignition key
parked the car pulled the key out of the ignition and it came out with no resistance from the tumblers. Put it back in and turned the key to the right and I felt no resistance at all. Then turned the key right and left and pulled it, still no resistance. Car wouldn't start either.
i then rotated the steering wheel and heard the steering wheel lock, lock up and then the ignition switch worked as normal.
what caused this? Is this an electrical problem or a tumbler problem or possibly a steering wheel lock problem.
any help would be appreciated.
thx.
i then rotated the steering wheel and heard the steering wheel lock, lock up and then the ignition switch worked as normal.
what caused this? Is this an electrical problem or a tumbler problem or possibly a steering wheel lock problem.
any help would be appreciated.
thx.
#3
Racer
This is not an uncommon problem with the ignition switch - if you use the search function on here or the 996 / 986 Boxster forums you sill see many failures or partial failures.
The part that usually collapses is the electrical portion which pushes into the bottom of the mechanical part of the switch - this causes all sorts of electrical gremlins as well as the experience you have described with either no resistance to the key or some times not being able to remove the key.
The part is common to VW / Audi #4A0 905 849 B for MY 2001 (@ less than $30) and there are 2 variants depending on the cars year of manufacture. Porsche don't supply the electrical bit any more and will want to sell you the complete tumbler assembly which is much more difficult to change out. The electrical portion is either black coloured plastic or white plastic and they are not interchangeable.....
Getting to the part is a bit tricky, usually from under the steering column. upside down with 3 very small hands, or (like I did on 2 occasions) by removing the air vent and getting to the switch from the top. There are a couple of "how to" discussions about it.
The part that usually collapses is the electrical portion which pushes into the bottom of the mechanical part of the switch - this causes all sorts of electrical gremlins as well as the experience you have described with either no resistance to the key or some times not being able to remove the key.
The part is common to VW / Audi #4A0 905 849 B for MY 2001 (@ less than $30) and there are 2 variants depending on the cars year of manufacture. Porsche don't supply the electrical bit any more and will want to sell you the complete tumbler assembly which is much more difficult to change out. The electrical portion is either black coloured plastic or white plastic and they are not interchangeable.....
Getting to the part is a bit tricky, usually from under the steering column. upside down with 3 very small hands, or (like I did on 2 occasions) by removing the air vent and getting to the switch from the top. There are a couple of "how to" discussions about it.
#4
Rennlist Member
I just had a similar scenario and got a new electrical portion as well as a complete one from Porsche to keep on hand:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...-ignition.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...-ignition.html
#6
Rennlist Member
This is not an uncommon problem with the ignition switch - if you use the search function on here or the 996 / 986 Boxster forums you sill see many failures or partial failures.
The part that usually collapses is the electrical portion which pushes into the bottom of the mechanical part of the switch - this causes all sorts of electrical gremlins as well as the experience you have described with either no resistance to the key or some times not being able to remove the key.
The part is common to VW / Audi #4A0 905 849 B for MY 2001 (@ less than $30) and there are 2 variants depending on the cars year of manufacture. Porsche don't supply the electrical bit any more and will want to sell you the complete tumbler assembly which is much more difficult to change out. The electrical portion is either black coloured plastic or white plastic and they are not interchangeable.....
Getting to the part is a bit tricky, usually from under the steering column. upside down with 3 very small hands, or (like I did on 2 occasions) by removing the air vent and getting to the switch from the top. There are a couple of "how to" discussions about it.
The part that usually collapses is the electrical portion which pushes into the bottom of the mechanical part of the switch - this causes all sorts of electrical gremlins as well as the experience you have described with either no resistance to the key or some times not being able to remove the key.
The part is common to VW / Audi #4A0 905 849 B for MY 2001 (@ less than $30) and there are 2 variants depending on the cars year of manufacture. Porsche don't supply the electrical bit any more and will want to sell you the complete tumbler assembly which is much more difficult to change out. The electrical portion is either black coloured plastic or white plastic and they are not interchangeable.....
Getting to the part is a bit tricky, usually from under the steering column. upside down with 3 very small hands, or (like I did on 2 occasions) by removing the air vent and getting to the switch from the top. There are a couple of "how to" discussions about it.
Thank you.
I wish more posts were this useful.
Cheers
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#8
I thought it worth mentioning that my car (153K miles & counting) is still on its original ignition switch. It's been my observation over the years that the biggest killer of these switches is having a big bunch of keys hanging off them. I only have my house & garage key on my keyring & I'm sure that has resulted in the extreme longevity of the switch.