docmirror

I'm going for a new release bearing. In the interest of one-time job, what else should be done in there besides the actual clutch?

Thinking pivot ball too, but anything else?

Macster

Clutch disc. Pressure plate. Release bearing. And any of the hardware that moves the clutch disc that shows signs of any wear. That could be the pivot ball but also where the clutch arm presses against the release bearing.

Be sure the flywheel is in good condition: no signs of overheating; and the dual mass feature works to specification.

Afterwards be sure you do a brake and clutch fluid flush and bleed.

Some advise replacing the RMS but if it is not leaking I'd be tempted to leave it alone. A problem is when this is replaced the new RMS should be installed so the seal runs on a fresh area of the crank journal. The old seal will have almost certainly worn a shallow groove in the journal and if the new seal is positioned at this point it will leak.

If you replace the RMS then replacing the IMS end flange with its seal and the 3 bolts is also a good idea. Replacing the IMS end flange is a bit complicated in that the engine has to be positioned just so and something secured so when the end flange is removed nothing inside the engine moves. The preceding was just a 20,000 foot view of the process. If you are going to replace the IMS end flange you need to the correct and precise steps to ensure this is done right.

Noz1974

Doc
There is a guide tube that the release bearing runs on , replace that and the clutch fork also , I'd leave ims flange and rms if they seem ok
Check flywheel for play, it is possible to replace the pinion bearing in the centre of the flywheel , it is also possible to replace the bearing around the shaft from the gearbox into the bellhousing, depends how far you want to go!

Chris(MA)

I just did mine, assuming your IMS bearing is good (I put on LNE on mine) and doesn't need anything. I did the following while I was in there:

replaced AOS from the backside of the engine, yes it works and means not having to remove manifolds etc from the trunk lid side

I bought the updated sealed TORX type case bolts but decided not to use them. My current ones were'n't leaking and I considered the risk of swapping them outweighed any benefits, instead I added automotive sealer to the heads against the crankcase to be sure they stayed leak tight

I examined my slave cylinder flushed it on the bench to confirm it had clean fresh fluid, also greased the internal ball joint. It was in great shape

I replaced clutch friction plate, pressure plate and release bearing. I cleaned the inside of the transmission of dust and oil, the slide tube the bearing rides on was in near perfect shape, just required degreasing.
I greased the slide tube, spline, pivot points with the special Sachs sticky grease

I used medium threadlock when re-installing the new flywheel bolts and the pressure plate bolts. I also put threadlock on the main bolts from trans to engine

I replaced my RMS, mine wasn't leaking and was in perfect shape. So I could have left it