Temperature management on 996 Mk.1
#31
Instructor
Went to the lower temp thermostat, third radiator and replaced the water pump, no problem with high temps. The last couple of days it has been 90 plus extreme humidity no issues. Worth the money.
#32
Drifting
I think we might all have just been lulled to sleep by modern cars that have fake temperature gauges that sit exactly in the middle all the time. The coolant temperature changes quite a bit, but manufacturers have gotten tired of complaints like this, so they just make their gauge sit exactly in the middle unless the engine is extremely cold or hot. On a car with a more "real" gauge, it's totally normal for the needle to wander up and down a bit with driving conditions. It is not indicative of a problem. If your radiators are clean and the gauge stays away from the extreme ends of the scale, there's nothing to worry about.
#33
Pro
Very interesting thread, but I have a quick question. I'm still newer to the car, perhaps I haven't researched enough, but how I can tell if the radiator fans are coming on while driving? It seems on other cars I can hear them, but have never heard the fans on the 996 (Mk.2). Thanks.
#34
Rennlist Member
My 1999 club racing 996.1 (SP996) overheated last year at NJMP (ambient temp 95 F). Cleaned the crap from the front of the radiators, fixed a bad L temp sensor, then installed a third radiator, new water pump and low temp thermostat. Using distilled water and water wetter. Also added the GT3 bumper with factory ducting to each radiator and put in a simple switch to manually activate both front fans. At full race speeds last weekend (WGI) the car ran a steady 190-195 degrees, though ambient temperatures were pretty cool - maybe 75 F. I run the fans manually when under yellow, staging or in the pits and it stays around 180 F. Next winter I hope to fabricate some baffles to improve flow through the side radiators. Here's the manual radiator fan control hack:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...tment-fan.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...tment-fan.html
#35
Rennlist Member
I think we might all have just been lulled to sleep by modern cars that have fake temperature gauges that sit exactly in the middle all the time. The coolant temperature changes quite a bit, but manufacturers have gotten tired of complaints like this, so they just make their gauge sit exactly in the middle unless the engine is extremely cold or hot. On a car with a more "real" gauge, it's totally normal for the needle to wander up and down a bit with driving conditions. It is not indicative of a problem. If your radiators are clean and the gauge stays away from the extreme ends of the scale, there's nothing to worry about.
#36
Start with the simple things first and work down the list:
- clean out your radiators
- check your fans with a durametric it possible
- coolant flush
- make sure there are no pockets of air in the system
Do you have an aftermarket bumper or do you have the correct air dams/guides for the bumper you have? If you dont that can cause heat issues.
- clean out your radiators
- check your fans with a durametric it possible
- coolant flush
- make sure there are no pockets of air in the system
Do you have an aftermarket bumper or do you have the correct air dams/guides for the bumper you have? If you dont that can cause heat issues.
1) I have flushed the system twice, once because I a leaky hose and second when the t-stat was installed.
2) Radiators have been brushed cleaned and blown with compressed air.
3) I assume my indy-shop checked for pockets.
4) Car is all factory, no after market bumpers
5) I really don't want to ghetto rig the car with the "fan mod" and a switch.
Question:
Will the fans engage with the A/C on, even with bad resistors?
Other solution:
https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...150757633.html
#37
For what its worth, my 99 will have the needle go from between the 8 and 0 of "180" (194 on my obd reader, 92c on the dash display) and go to where the needle is between the 0 and unmarked line (seems to be 220F according to my obd reader, 112c on the dash display). In low to mid 90's I have not been able to get the temp above the unmarked line. It is a bit disconcerting how much the 996 seems to rely on its fans to maintain its cool. I proactively replaced the fan relays and have cleaned the rads, replaced WP, and OEM thermostat, and updated the cap to the 04 rev. Running the Porsche coolant at 50/50.
#38
Rennlist Member
For what its worth, my 99 will have the needle go from between the 8 and 0 of "180" (194 on my obd reader, 92c on the dash display) and go to where the needle is between the 0 and unmarked line (seems to be 220F according to my obd reader, 112c on the dash display). In low to mid 90's I have not been able to get the temp above the unmarked line. It is a bit disconcerting how much the 996 seems to rely on its fans to maintain its cool. I proactively replaced the fan relays and have cleaned the rads, replaced WP, and OEM thermostat, and updated the cap to the 04 rev. Running the Porsche coolant at 50/50.
112C (233F) is pretty warm for Coolant if you ask me. Mine has only gotten to 107C. Not sure what cooling system pressure is needed to keep water from boiling at these temps.
#39
Race Director
The previous owner had the center radiator installed along with all of the aero/aero II parts. I de-gunked the radiators prior to this trip, but no other cooling system maintenance other than verifying coolant levels haven't changed and no visible fluid hanky-panky (oil in the coolant/coolant out the tailpipe kind of hanky-panky).
I did not datalog this trip, but I have a decent idea of how my gauge tracks acutalish data. The temp was nominal, right in the sweet spot of warmed up but not hot (again, by my decidedly imprecise calibration), even when we were driving at low speeds (35MPH) in 90-100 degree F ambient temps with the AC on after some higher-speed pulls. I was pleasantly surprised that NOBODY puked up any coolant, but most of the cars present live in the desert full-time and were probably better prepared than my decidedly half-a$$ed efforts.
But at least I put the spare in the frunk, right? *sigh*
I did not datalog this trip, but I have a decent idea of how my gauge tracks acutalish data. The temp was nominal, right in the sweet spot of warmed up but not hot (again, by my decidedly imprecise calibration), even when we were driving at low speeds (35MPH) in 90-100 degree F ambient temps with the AC on after some higher-speed pulls. I was pleasantly surprised that NOBODY puked up any coolant, but most of the cars present live in the desert full-time and were probably better prepared than my decidedly half-a$$ed efforts.
But at least I put the spare in the frunk, right? *sigh*
#40
For what its worth, my 99 will have the needle go from between the 8 and 0 of "180" (194 on my obd reader, 92c on the dash display) and go to where the needle is between the 0 and unmarked line (seems to be 220F according to my obd reader, 112c on the dash display). In low to mid 90's I have not been able to get the temp above the unmarked line. It is a bit disconcerting how much the 996 seems to rely on its fans to maintain its cool. I proactively replaced the fan relays and have cleaned the rads, replaced WP, and OEM thermostat, and updated the cap to the 04 rev. Running the Porsche coolant at 50/50.
On the highway, with a 169 t-stat the temperature stays at the 180 line regardless of how hard I drive it. In city traffic, I can baby it and watch the temperature climb rapidly.
Again, I am pointing fingers at the fans and thier engagement point.
Has anyone tried CSF aluminum radiators? At roughly $1,000 I am ify about it.
Thank you all for taking the time to post real life experiences with the heat issues.
#41
Rennlist Member
So these cars run hot by design. My sisters 135i BMW did the same thing. Plenty of forum posts on that car too if I recall.
#42
Rennlist Member
Certainly a factor. The cooling fans in my car don't even come on until the temp goes to 97C. That's the low-speed fans. The high speed fans come on at 102C (215.6F), while the thermostat is fully open at 210F. So if you think about it, the car won't even be at full cooling mode until 215F and above.
So these cars run hot by design. My sisters 135i BMW did the same thing. Plenty of forum posts on that car too if I recall.
So these cars run hot by design. My sisters 135i BMW did the same thing. Plenty of forum posts on that car too if I recall.
#43
Racer
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I did all this with the exception of a new water-pump and a 160 thermostat.
On the highway, with a 169 t-stat the temperature stays at the 180 line regardless of how hard I drive it. In city traffic, I can baby it and watch the temperature climb rapidly.
Again, I am pointing fingers at the fans and thier engagement point.
Has anyone tried CSF aluminum radiators? At roughly $1,000 I am ify about it.
Thank you all for taking the time to post real life experiences with the heat issues.
On the highway, with a 169 t-stat the temperature stays at the 180 line regardless of how hard I drive it. In city traffic, I can baby it and watch the temperature climb rapidly.
Again, I am pointing fingers at the fans and thier engagement point.
Has anyone tried CSF aluminum radiators? At roughly $1,000 I am ify about it.
Thank you all for taking the time to post real life experiences with the heat issues.
I observed the high fan kicked in at 107C, not 102C.
My car is currently having the fan-check + install of new waterpump and LTT. Got a call that the left fan did not kick in at low speed (it did do this at 107C at high speed) so this might explain why I was seeing it go all the way up to 107C).
#44
Racer
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Remember the 996 measures and regulates cooling water temperature when entering the engine while typical is that this is done when exiting the engine. So your Mini might run cooler then your Porsche...
#45
Rennlist Member
So once you are sure the waterpump is OK, radiators are cleaned and the fans are running as they should the next suspect are the radiators themselves. I have seen other reports that only when changing them the cooling capacity was back to where it should be. When changing them it makes sense if you are willing to spend the extra $$ to go for the CSF radiators.
I observed the high fan kicked in at 107C, not 102C.
My car is currently having the fan-check + install of new waterpump and LTT. Got a call that the left fan did not kick in at low speed (it did do this at 107C at high speed) so this might explain why I was seeing it go all the way up to 107C).
I observed the high fan kicked in at 107C, not 102C.
My car is currently having the fan-check + install of new waterpump and LTT. Got a call that the left fan did not kick in at low speed (it did do this at 107C at high speed) so this might explain why I was seeing it go all the way up to 107C).