PCA: 996 and 986 PPI video with Raby, Navarro and Callas
#31
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#32
Former Vendor
I did that video in 2008. At that time I was using 518, and I have used it at some other points as well. The good thing about 518 is the fact that it's anerobic, not a form of RTV. If you use too much 518, it just mixes in the oil, and it never hardens like RTV. Dreibond is also an RTV, if too much is used, then it mixes in the oil as a solid, and goes where it isn't wanted.
The 518 was found to have 2 main caveats:
-It works like red loctite, good luck getting the sump plate back off.
-It will start to leak after a few years of the engine flexing.
Hyper- sensitivity is the leading cause of problems. Too many people over think things, and that causes more problems than not thinking enough. They try so hard not to screw up, that they screw up.
The 518 was found to have 2 main caveats:
-It works like red loctite, good luck getting the sump plate back off.
-It will start to leak after a few years of the engine flexing.
Hyper- sensitivity is the leading cause of problems. Too many people over think things, and that causes more problems than not thinking enough. They try so hard not to screw up, that they screw up.
#33
Rennlist Member
What about Loctite 5900? That is what I was told by my local Porsche dealer, and what they list on their parts diagram.
LOL, your right Jake in most cases I suppose. Of course there are those cases, like removing the IMS flange before locking cams, where a little extra thinking might not go a miss (no offence to anyone who's done this).
My most recent engine rebuild was my vintage British motorcycle. Very different philosophy at play there, where each surface must be lapped, gasket, and sealed in order for it to hold oil in for a limited period of time, until flex and vibration allows it to "rust proof" itself (usually a matter or a month or two of regular riding) . As long as it's leaking, you know there's still oil in there. It's when it stops you worry.
LOL, your right Jake in most cases I suppose. Of course there are those cases, like removing the IMS flange before locking cams, where a little extra thinking might not go a miss (no offence to anyone who's done this).
My most recent engine rebuild was my vintage British motorcycle. Very different philosophy at play there, where each surface must be lapped, gasket, and sealed in order for it to hold oil in for a limited period of time, until flex and vibration allows it to "rust proof" itself (usually a matter or a month or two of regular riding) . As long as it's leaking, you know there's still oil in there. It's when it stops you worry.
#34
Former Vendor
First off, I don't give a damn what the dealer says, or what any "tech" says at a dealer. I do what works for me in first hand experiences. I make mistakes, and learn from them, and I also constantly try new things. Thats called development. Listening to people is called being a follower, I don;t know how to do that.
Now, if you looked at that parts diagram in 1999, it would have listed Dreibond 1209. T
What 5900 has proven to me, is its the worst possible sealant, with the quickest drying time, and the most probability for oil contamination.
Now, if you looked at that parts diagram in 1999, it would have listed Dreibond 1209. T
What 5900 has proven to me, is its the worst possible sealant, with the quickest drying time, and the most probability for oil contamination.
#35
So in a few years I may be cursing your name as a pry off my sump plate.
#36
Rennlist Member
Careful Rolex, things have been a little touchy lately.