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Old 05-24-2017, 02:40 AM
  #31  
johnireland
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Originally Posted by Vincent T.
Thank you I really appreciate your advice. If I'm going to have to spend that much more money on replacement parts, why not just buy a 997? I've seen some in the 30k range with low mileage. Did your PPI gave you the thumbs up when you purchase your 996?
Any car that is more than 10 years old and that doesn't have a full service history is going to cost you the same amount of money to have full confidence in. Plus if you get into a 997S it gets even more expensive.
Old 05-24-2017, 07:38 AM
  #32  
Giorginetto
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Originally Posted by shawn_nj
Per the owners manual the Tip is about half a second slower 0-60. In real life I am sure the shifting accuracy makes up for some.


These number are useless in my opinion. Porsche always gives very conservative figures to the 911 , the 996 tipo has been measured to do 0-62km/hr at 5sec/4.8sec in numerous occasions but then again thats is a function of varius parameters. I am pretty certain my car with less than half tank of fule and me in it does 0-62 in 5 sec assuming the digitial speedometer is accurate this is .....
Old 05-24-2017, 09:07 AM
  #33  
shawn_nj
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Originally Posted by Vincent T.
Thank you I really appreciate your advice. If I'm going to have to spend that much more money on replacement parts, why not just buy a 997? I've seen some in the 30k range with low mileage. Did your PPI gave you the thumbs up when you purchase your 996?
I am sure you have read tha there is no such thing as a cheap 911... Technically I did not have to do any of this maintenance, I could have just drove it as is. But we all know what happens when the IMS goes. Or the damage an overheat will do. Unless you find a car that has had a full dealer maintenance done, plan on dropping significant money to get it back to spec condition. Especially if you are not a diy guy. (I am not) My ppi identified most of the small issues. Those small leak and seal problems were under $700 to fix. I knew going into this that I was going to do the IMS immediatley after purchase. As well as the full 60k miles service (plugs coils, brakes, ect). A 997 with 50k mileage will still needjust about everything that i replaced as well to get tp the point where its trust worthy to daily drive. And be significantly more money upfront. And unless you go 09+ they still have an IMS bearing. My car was 19grand, body is perfect, with 55k miles. Put in another 5,500 I am still under 25k for a very clean 320hp 911. My gfs lame toyota was almost 22k off the lot....lol

Either hold out for someone on here to sell there full maintenance history car at a premium (and still plan on spending some coin), or plan to drop a good amount post sale. There is nothing that makes sense here financially its all about smiles per mile...lol

Last edited by shawn_nj; 05-24-2017 at 09:22 AM.
Old 05-24-2017, 09:19 AM
  #34  
shawn_nj
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Originally Posted by Giorginetto
These number are useless in my opinion. Porsche always gives very conservative figures to the 911 , the 996 tipo has been measured to do 0-62km/hr at 5sec/4.8sec in numerous occasions but then again thats is a function of varius parameters. I am pretty certain my car with less than half tank of fule and me in it does 0-62 in 5 sec assuming the digitial speedometer is accurate this is .....
I completely agree those numbers do not tell the whole story. But they are the published number for what its worth. I spent alot of time driving a twin turbo rx7 that was spec to 0-60 in 4.9 and my 996 seat of pants meter feels every bit as quick as the rx7 did.
Old 05-26-2017, 08:10 PM
  #35  
Vincent T.
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I test drove a 2001 C2 with 41k miles with a Tiptronic for the first time. All I can say is WOW! It shifts fast and was fun to drive! I didn't have to move the stick to manual mode and all I did was move the buttons on the steering wheel and it shifts, very nicely at that. While the engine seems solid, the body had a few dings and scratches. The interior had a few wear here and there. Underneath the car was dry nothing leaking. The asking price is 18k and I'm still contemplating. What I am really looking for is a 2002 C2 because of the 3.6L. I took a few photos of the options and code it has. Can anyone tell me what these code means?
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Old 05-26-2017, 08:45 PM
  #36  
squawbum
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Originally Posted by Vincent T.
Did you replace the RMS, IMS and AOS when you took the trans apart?
I didn't because that was all done around 30k miles ago. I did inspect the area and there was an LN IMSB in there as well as an updated RMS. Was totally clean behind the flex plate. Didn't do AOS either because it is fine and tests at 5 inches of h2o, although I didn't find that out until after I put the tranny back in. I actually thought I might have to do the AOS but after testing it I'm relieved that I don't have to.

After the rebuild the tip is like new. Unbelievably smooth transmission and I love being able to use the shift buttons at anytime,whether in D or M mode. When I use the buttons in D mode it will automatically switch to M mode and then back if you don't touch the buttons for a period of time.

I always drive in D mode and use the buttons when I want to override the computer. One thing I don't like is that you can't use the actual shifter **** to shift gears. Can only use the steering wheel buttons to shift.
Old 05-27-2017, 12:11 AM
  #37  
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To add to the previous comparisons between Tip an Manual

The tip gearbox is around 100lbs heavier then the manual. You feel this during driving; the car is less agile. Hence also the slower 0-60 accelerations on paper. Might be the Tip shifts makes up for this partly in real life.

I think the gear ratio's in the Tip are developed for fuel economy instead of performance. Having in mind the Tip still consumes more.

About the gear ratios; with the manual I tend to cruise always around 3000-3500rpm where more torque is available. With the tip in Auto it is always around 2000-2500. So with the manual I accelerating right away without the split second of lag for the downshift or manual downshift of the Tip.

Accelerating from standstill you feel the Tip loses a lot of power in the low revs before the torque converter locks up. At the end the Tip has definitely less hp at the wheels.

The exhaust sound of a Tip is somewhat different compared to manual cars.
Old 05-27-2017, 03:58 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Silk
To add to the previous comparisons between Tip an Manual

The tip gearbox is around 100lbs heavier then the manual. You feel this during driving; the car is less agile. Hence also the slower 0-60 accelerations on paper. Might be the Tip shifts makes up for this partly in real life.

I think the gear ratio's in the Tip are developed for fuel economy instead of performance. Having in mind the Tip still consumes more.

About the gear ratios; with the manual I tend to cruise always around 3000-3500rpm where more torque is available. With the tip in Auto it is always around 2000-2500. So with the manual I accelerating right away without the split second of lag for the downshift or manual downshift of the Tip.

Accelerating from standstill you feel the Tip loses a lot of power in the low revs before the torque converter locks up. At the end the Tip has definitely less hp at the wheels.

The exhaust sound of a Tip is somewhat different compared to manual cars.
So when you're cruising on the freeway, you leave it on 4th gear to get 3500rpm?
Old 05-27-2017, 07:00 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Vincent713
So when you're cruising on the freeway, you leave it on 4th gear to get 3500rpm?
Depends, on the freeway you do not need to accelerate that fast to overtake. Did 25.000 miles in my Tip over the last 1.5 yrs without any regret. But now after 500miles driving the manual gearbox it is the first thing that was directly crystal clear for me. The gear ratios of the manual are more tailored to the engine then those of the Tip.

Tip is perfect for cruising. Manual for real connecting with your car. My personal
opinion after driving both.
Old 05-27-2017, 07:27 AM
  #40  
shawn_nj
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Originally Posted by Silk
Tip is perfect for cruising. Manual for real connecting with your car. My personal
opinion after driving both.
Having driven both and owning a Tip, I completely agree with you. Tip is a great option for those who cannot live with a clutch on the daily. Gets you about 85% of the driving experience. But there is nothing like a proper manual.
Old 05-27-2017, 07:44 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Vincent T.
I test drove a 2001 C2 with 41k miles with a Tiptronic for the first time. All I can say is WOW! It shifts fast and was fun to drive! I didn't have to move the stick to manual mode and all I did was move the buttons on the steering wheel and it shifts, very nicely at that. While the engine seems solid, the body had a few dings and scratches. The interior had a few wear here and there. Underneath the car was dry nothing leaking. The asking price is 18k and I'm still contemplating. What I am really looking for is a 2002 C2 because of the 3.6L. I took a few photos of the options and code it has. Can anyone tell me what these code means?
Put your VIN in the option decoder here and it will give you more info on the car.

Wp0aa299716520414
Old 05-27-2017, 01:49 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by shawn_nj
Put your VIN in the option decoder here and it will give you more info on the car.

Wp0aa299716520414
When I go to enter the VIN, the description said it was a 911 coupe 6 speed manual but the car was a Tiptronic...?
Old 05-27-2017, 02:01 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Vincent713
I didn't get the VIN on the car. If you look at the photos of post, those buttons I think are for the stereo? It did have a cd changer in the front trunk. Do you think it's a good deal for $18k at only 41,000 miles?
That is your vin, I got it from your option sticker picture.

Wp0aa299716520414

Its a call you are going to have to make, how much service history doc does it have? How much does carfax show? Did it have any long periods where it sat
with milage not increasing in carfax?

I held out for a 02+. If you decide to go for it, make sure you have a PPI by someone who knows these cars just incase there is something major you are missing. Make sure original engine...lol Its a big gamble regardless, if there is something major hiding with the motor that shows up in a few months you are looking at $10-20k. Make sure you are comfortable with that and have the cash that it will not put you in ruin.
Old 05-27-2017, 02:10 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by shawn_nj
That is your vin, I got it from your option sticker picture.

Wp0aa299716520414

Its a call you are going to have to make, how much service history doc does it have? How much does carfax show? Did it have any long periods where it sat
with milage not increasing in carfax?

I held out for a 02+. If you decide to go for it, make sure you have a PPI by someone who knows these cars just incase there is something major you are missing. Make sure original engine...lol
Thanks for the advice. Yeah I just now realized the decoder was the car I was looking at lol. The weird thing is the decoder said it was a 6 speed manual when in fact it has a Tiptronic...? Carfax shows lots of services including all the major ones from a Porsche dealer. No records of replacement or repairs, didn't find any IMS sitckers but underneath was dry and no leaks. I notice the AC blew cold air but the air was weak and not blowing out a lot like the 99' I tested. I think I'm going to pass on this one, I really like the 02' with the 3.6L. It has a nice pull and fast!
Old 05-27-2017, 02:20 PM
  #45  
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Mine is the same, I always run in 2 and 3rd around town. If I was to go right side on the stick she always lugs herself around. Try keeping her between 2500 and 3500 rpm. There much happier, when highway cruising let the right stick take over, stop and go traffic 2nd gear for me. Hope this helps


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