Tiptronic Question 2002
#31
Rennlist Member
Any car that is more than 10 years old and that doesn't have a full service history is going to cost you the same amount of money to have full confidence in. Plus if you get into a 997S it gets even more expensive.
#32
Racer
These number are useless in my opinion. Porsche always gives very conservative figures to the 911 , the 996 tipo has been measured to do 0-62km/hr at 5sec/4.8sec in numerous occasions but then again thats is a function of varius parameters. I am pretty certain my car with less than half tank of fule and me in it does 0-62 in 5 sec assuming the digitial speedometer is accurate this is .....
#33
Either hold out for someone on here to sell there full maintenance history car at a premium (and still plan on spending some coin), or plan to drop a good amount post sale. There is nothing that makes sense here financially its all about smiles per mile...lol
Last edited by shawn_nj; 05-24-2017 at 09:22 AM.
#34
These number are useless in my opinion. Porsche always gives very conservative figures to the 911 , the 996 tipo has been measured to do 0-62km/hr at 5sec/4.8sec in numerous occasions but then again thats is a function of varius parameters. I am pretty certain my car with less than half tank of fule and me in it does 0-62 in 5 sec assuming the digitial speedometer is accurate this is .....
#35
I test drove a 2001 C2 with 41k miles with a Tiptronic for the first time. All I can say is WOW! It shifts fast and was fun to drive! I didn't have to move the stick to manual mode and all I did was move the buttons on the steering wheel and it shifts, very nicely at that. While the engine seems solid, the body had a few dings and scratches. The interior had a few wear here and there. Underneath the car was dry nothing leaking. The asking price is 18k and I'm still contemplating. What I am really looking for is a 2002 C2 because of the 3.6L. I took a few photos of the options and code it has. Can anyone tell me what these code means?
#36
Instructor
I didn't because that was all done around 30k miles ago. I did inspect the area and there was an LN IMSB in there as well as an updated RMS. Was totally clean behind the flex plate. Didn't do AOS either because it is fine and tests at 5 inches of h2o, although I didn't find that out until after I put the tranny back in. I actually thought I might have to do the AOS but after testing it I'm relieved that I don't have to.
After the rebuild the tip is like new. Unbelievably smooth transmission and I love being able to use the shift buttons at anytime,whether in D or M mode. When I use the buttons in D mode it will automatically switch to M mode and then back if you don't touch the buttons for a period of time.
I always drive in D mode and use the buttons when I want to override the computer. One thing I don't like is that you can't use the actual shifter **** to shift gears. Can only use the steering wheel buttons to shift.
After the rebuild the tip is like new. Unbelievably smooth transmission and I love being able to use the shift buttons at anytime,whether in D or M mode. When I use the buttons in D mode it will automatically switch to M mode and then back if you don't touch the buttons for a period of time.
I always drive in D mode and use the buttons when I want to override the computer. One thing I don't like is that you can't use the actual shifter **** to shift gears. Can only use the steering wheel buttons to shift.
#37
To add to the previous comparisons between Tip an Manual
The tip gearbox is around 100lbs heavier then the manual. You feel this during driving; the car is less agile. Hence also the slower 0-60 accelerations on paper. Might be the Tip shifts makes up for this partly in real life.
I think the gear ratio's in the Tip are developed for fuel economy instead of performance. Having in mind the Tip still consumes more.
About the gear ratios; with the manual I tend to cruise always around 3000-3500rpm where more torque is available. With the tip in Auto it is always around 2000-2500. So with the manual I accelerating right away without the split second of lag for the downshift or manual downshift of the Tip.
Accelerating from standstill you feel the Tip loses a lot of power in the low revs before the torque converter locks up. At the end the Tip has definitely less hp at the wheels.
The exhaust sound of a Tip is somewhat different compared to manual cars.
The tip gearbox is around 100lbs heavier then the manual. You feel this during driving; the car is less agile. Hence also the slower 0-60 accelerations on paper. Might be the Tip shifts makes up for this partly in real life.
I think the gear ratio's in the Tip are developed for fuel economy instead of performance. Having in mind the Tip still consumes more.
About the gear ratios; with the manual I tend to cruise always around 3000-3500rpm where more torque is available. With the tip in Auto it is always around 2000-2500. So with the manual I accelerating right away without the split second of lag for the downshift or manual downshift of the Tip.
Accelerating from standstill you feel the Tip loses a lot of power in the low revs before the torque converter locks up. At the end the Tip has definitely less hp at the wheels.
The exhaust sound of a Tip is somewhat different compared to manual cars.
#38
To add to the previous comparisons between Tip an Manual
The tip gearbox is around 100lbs heavier then the manual. You feel this during driving; the car is less agile. Hence also the slower 0-60 accelerations on paper. Might be the Tip shifts makes up for this partly in real life.
I think the gear ratio's in the Tip are developed for fuel economy instead of performance. Having in mind the Tip still consumes more.
About the gear ratios; with the manual I tend to cruise always around 3000-3500rpm where more torque is available. With the tip in Auto it is always around 2000-2500. So with the manual I accelerating right away without the split second of lag for the downshift or manual downshift of the Tip.
Accelerating from standstill you feel the Tip loses a lot of power in the low revs before the torque converter locks up. At the end the Tip has definitely less hp at the wheels.
The exhaust sound of a Tip is somewhat different compared to manual cars.
The tip gearbox is around 100lbs heavier then the manual. You feel this during driving; the car is less agile. Hence also the slower 0-60 accelerations on paper. Might be the Tip shifts makes up for this partly in real life.
I think the gear ratio's in the Tip are developed for fuel economy instead of performance. Having in mind the Tip still consumes more.
About the gear ratios; with the manual I tend to cruise always around 3000-3500rpm where more torque is available. With the tip in Auto it is always around 2000-2500. So with the manual I accelerating right away without the split second of lag for the downshift or manual downshift of the Tip.
Accelerating from standstill you feel the Tip loses a lot of power in the low revs before the torque converter locks up. At the end the Tip has definitely less hp at the wheels.
The exhaust sound of a Tip is somewhat different compared to manual cars.
#39
Tip is perfect for cruising. Manual for real connecting with your car. My personal
opinion after driving both.
#40
Having driven both and owning a Tip, I completely agree with you. Tip is a great option for those who cannot live with a clutch on the daily. Gets you about 85% of the driving experience. But there is nothing like a proper manual.
#41
I test drove a 2001 C2 with 41k miles with a Tiptronic for the first time. All I can say is WOW! It shifts fast and was fun to drive! I didn't have to move the stick to manual mode and all I did was move the buttons on the steering wheel and it shifts, very nicely at that. While the engine seems solid, the body had a few dings and scratches. The interior had a few wear here and there. Underneath the car was dry nothing leaking. The asking price is 18k and I'm still contemplating. What I am really looking for is a 2002 C2 because of the 3.6L. I took a few photos of the options and code it has. Can anyone tell me what these code means?
Wp0aa299716520414
#42
#43
Wp0aa299716520414
Its a call you are going to have to make, how much service history doc does it have? How much does carfax show? Did it have any long periods where it sat
with milage not increasing in carfax?
I held out for a 02+. If you decide to go for it, make sure you have a PPI by someone who knows these cars just incase there is something major you are missing. Make sure original engine...lol Its a big gamble regardless, if there is something major hiding with the motor that shows up in a few months you are looking at $10-20k. Make sure you are comfortable with that and have the cash that it will not put you in ruin.
#44
That is your vin, I got it from your option sticker picture.
Wp0aa299716520414
Its a call you are going to have to make, how much service history doc does it have? How much does carfax show? Did it have any long periods where it sat
with milage not increasing in carfax?
I held out for a 02+. If you decide to go for it, make sure you have a PPI by someone who knows these cars just incase there is something major you are missing. Make sure original engine...lol
Wp0aa299716520414
Its a call you are going to have to make, how much service history doc does it have? How much does carfax show? Did it have any long periods where it sat
with milage not increasing in carfax?
I held out for a 02+. If you decide to go for it, make sure you have a PPI by someone who knows these cars just incase there is something major you are missing. Make sure original engine...lol
#45
Mine is the same, I always run in 2 and 3rd around town. If I was to go right side on the stick she always lugs herself around. Try keeping her between 2500 and 3500 rpm. There much happier, when highway cruising let the right stick take over, stop and go traffic 2nd gear for me. Hope this helps