Anyone get an LN bearing done AT LN?
05-11-2017, 02:32 PM
#47
Racer
Thread Starter
05-11-2017, 02:55 PM
#48
Damn, now I need to go dig up that thread from Mr "I have a loan on a 14+ year old car and used 401k money to put a new motor in it" which made Jake stop answering the phone for awhile. That is some pure Rennlist gold there!
05-11-2017, 02:56 PM
#49
Oh, I'm still here. I was just out looking for a third job to cover all of these preventative maintenance expenditures. I was also out in the garage changing the air oil separator and coolant expansion tank. Everything was working just fine after I was done until I had the sudden urge to replace them again, just in case. I thought I saw a mouse in the garage as well.
I recently sold my very well documented 2003 C4s to another member here. In the time I owned the car had I followed this forum and DIY'ed the hell out of my car it still would have cost me in excess of $5,000 for just because stuff...It's total insanity the crap that guys go on with that "need" to be done just because your in there. Heck when your checking the oil might as well drop the alternator just because your in there. The new owner got a GREAT car that was well maintained and ran perfectly, it's up to him now if he is going to cave under the pressure of reading all the free "Advice" here on what needs to be changed in order for his new dream car to not self destruct.
Although the Audi R8 forum is kinda boring (hence my trolling around here) I must say the level of misc repair "just because" threads over there are non existent.
05-11-2017, 03:01 PM
#50
Former Vendor
Over the last 18 years Charles and I have changed roles a bit... Today he gets more pissed off, easier than I do. It used to be the opposite, as back in the day I've physically removed people from my property before.
I think its only because he deals with more people than I do. Life is easier when you are underground.
I think its only because he deals with more people than I do. Life is easier when you are underground.
05-11-2017, 06:24 PM
#51
Racer
Thread Starter
Hey, getting Charles upset takes some talent. Jake's easy to get riled up, but I don't think I've seen Charles get testy before. And I've seen him dealing with some real idiots when they come on here actually trying to slander his company/products.
Damn, now I need to go dig up that thread from Mr "I have a loan on a 14+ year old car and used 401k money to put a new motor in it" which made Jake stop answering the phone for awhile. That is some pure Rennlist gold there!
Damn, now I need to go dig up that thread from Mr "I have a loan on a 14+ year old car and used 401k money to put a new motor in it" which made Jake stop answering the phone for awhile. That is some pure Rennlist gold there!
05-11-2017, 06:48 PM
#52
This guy on the other hand... https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ings-fail.html
Damn that thread is still hilarious.
05-11-2017, 07:55 PM
#53
Pro
Join Date: Jun 2016
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Try this:
http://theimssolution.com/wp-content...-Checklist.pdf
The website has lots of other info too.
http://theimssolution.com/wp-content...-Checklist.pdf
The website has lots of other info too.
05-11-2017, 10:56 PM
#55
Racer
Thread Starter
No doubt, I have a theory on how they cause IMS failures. I'd like to tell it, but I'm busy preventively changing the coils for the third time today. Did I mentioned I'm also on my third pair of underwear? You never know when a pair is going to get soiled.
05-11-2017, 11:10 PM
#56
Rennlist Member
Will you get the damn prequal already? It will be hilarious if it passes with flying colors and this entire thread was a waste of Etherspace.
05-11-2017, 11:23 PM
#57
Racer
Thread Starter
I've been out of town all week. I'm planning on dropping the sump, inspecting, and changing the oil and sending it off for testing. The oil was just changed before I bought the car but I frankly don't trust many folks and I have no evidence the right oil was even put in the car. I'm in no hurry to get anything done. The water pump has, at most, 20,000 miles, it's not leaking and the temp gauge is rock steady pointed straight up. I will test it and change if necessary. I'm not changing the water pump. The coolant expansion tank looks like it is factory new. I'm not changing the tank. The clutch feels just fine and the take up is fine, I'm not changing the clutch, even if it will "save me money"(somehow) by changing it when the bearing is serviced. I have a garage full of tools, I'll admit that I don't have a brake fluid tester. One is scheduled for delivery tomorrow, the fluid will be tested. The appearance of the fluid is no different than stuff right out of the can..but I will change it if it fails. I'm going to pull the plugs and inspect, and yes, change if necessary, along with the coils. When I'm done with that, I'll take it for the prequal. If I drop the pan or find debris in the filter I'll order an LS1.
05-11-2017, 11:29 PM
#58
Racer
Thread Starter
Keep in mind that less than 1% of dual row bearing mk.1 996's made between 1997-2001 were affected by the IMSB issue! The mk.2 996's (2002-2004) with signle-row IMSBs are the ones that had the higher than 8% failure rate.
Check the build date for your car. It's shown as month/year (10/99 on my car) in the upper right hand corner of the sticker on the edge of your driver's side door. As a 2000 model year car it is more than likely built in the first half of 2000, which means it more than likely has the more robust dual row bearing. The gradual changeover from dual-row to single-row bearing started in mid-2000. And even quite a few 2001 cars have been reported to have dual row bearings come out of their car during swap.
Knowing what I know now, in your case I would not change anything just yet and start with buying an LN Spin On filter adapter, a magnetic drain plug and a 100 micron strainer to run your oil through during oil changes. Over the next couple of oil change cycles, send oil samples off for UOA (used oil analysis) and such and keep a watchful eye on debris in the strainer and in the oil filters you change out.
Watch for plastic bits in the oil as well, as these will most likely be coming from the chain tensioner paddles. If the oil is clean of plastic, I'd leave the chain tensioner paddles alone too. Overall, this could mean the difference between doing the more costly engine-out refresh vs. a more reasonably priced tranny-out IMSB/RMS/Clutch swap when the time comes.
When your clutch starts to show signs of needing replacement, then you will have some big decisions to make. Put in whatever flavor of replacement bearing your research points you too, or what your wallet can support.
When I had the full engine-out refresh done to my 2000 Cab last year I went with the EPS "Eternal" cylindrical bearing with the slotted hex drive oil feed and put almost 6k miles on it before selling the car. That car had an 05/00 build date and the IMSB that came out at 93k miles was dual row and in perfect condition. EPS advertises their cylinder bearing as a permanent fix and there is no evidence that I could dig up that indicates anything to the contratrary. Granted, using the $450 EPS bearing kit instead of the more expensive LN options went against the general mindset of most who frequent here, but I would still use that bearing again in a heartbeat. You will hear things like "there is no published spec sheet for the load capacity of the bearing" and "there are no published numbers of how many bearings EPS has sold" or "EPS probably doesn't sell enough bearings for us to have heard of any failures yet" and other potentially valid-sounding arguments as to why not to use the EPS bearing. Take all of that into consideration.
My theory is quite simply that most people who chosen to use the EPS bearing don't frequent Rennlist. But if their were failures, I think it's pretty likely in this day and age of easy-access information that we'd have heard about it by now.
Now.... None of this is any kind of slam against LN or their solutions. In fact, the car that replaced my 2000 Cab has an LN dual row replacement bearing in it, which was replaced under previous ownership. But that bearing also has a published 50k mile life-cycle and in the unlikely event that I should happen to still own this car when it's "time" to go through another IMSB swap, based on what I know right now I'd use the EPS Eternal bearing again without hesitation.
Check the build date for your car. It's shown as month/year (10/99 on my car) in the upper right hand corner of the sticker on the edge of your driver's side door. As a 2000 model year car it is more than likely built in the first half of 2000, which means it more than likely has the more robust dual row bearing. The gradual changeover from dual-row to single-row bearing started in mid-2000. And even quite a few 2001 cars have been reported to have dual row bearings come out of their car during swap.
Knowing what I know now, in your case I would not change anything just yet and start with buying an LN Spin On filter adapter, a magnetic drain plug and a 100 micron strainer to run your oil through during oil changes. Over the next couple of oil change cycles, send oil samples off for UOA (used oil analysis) and such and keep a watchful eye on debris in the strainer and in the oil filters you change out.
Watch for plastic bits in the oil as well, as these will most likely be coming from the chain tensioner paddles. If the oil is clean of plastic, I'd leave the chain tensioner paddles alone too. Overall, this could mean the difference between doing the more costly engine-out refresh vs. a more reasonably priced tranny-out IMSB/RMS/Clutch swap when the time comes.
When your clutch starts to show signs of needing replacement, then you will have some big decisions to make. Put in whatever flavor of replacement bearing your research points you too, or what your wallet can support.
When I had the full engine-out refresh done to my 2000 Cab last year I went with the EPS "Eternal" cylindrical bearing with the slotted hex drive oil feed and put almost 6k miles on it before selling the car. That car had an 05/00 build date and the IMSB that came out at 93k miles was dual row and in perfect condition. EPS advertises their cylinder bearing as a permanent fix and there is no evidence that I could dig up that indicates anything to the contratrary. Granted, using the $450 EPS bearing kit instead of the more expensive LN options went against the general mindset of most who frequent here, but I would still use that bearing again in a heartbeat. You will hear things like "there is no published spec sheet for the load capacity of the bearing" and "there are no published numbers of how many bearings EPS has sold" or "EPS probably doesn't sell enough bearings for us to have heard of any failures yet" and other potentially valid-sounding arguments as to why not to use the EPS bearing. Take all of that into consideration.
My theory is quite simply that most people who chosen to use the EPS bearing don't frequent Rennlist. But if their were failures, I think it's pretty likely in this day and age of easy-access information that we'd have heard about it by now.
Now.... None of this is any kind of slam against LN or their solutions. In fact, the car that replaced my 2000 Cab has an LN dual row replacement bearing in it, which was replaced under previous ownership. But that bearing also has a published 50k mile life-cycle and in the unlikely event that I should happen to still own this car when it's "time" to go through another IMSB swap, based on what I know right now I'd use the EPS Eternal bearing again without hesitation.
