Rick_K

Good Morning,
I left my car outside (2003 Targa C2) and it got pretty cold. I started my P car and the starter motor didn't disengage for a split second making a noise like the engine was driving the motor. When I got to work I turned of the engine and then started again to find the problem had gone but I'm thinking it was due to the fact the car was real cold. I'm looking for thoughts from you guys to head off a problem before its a real problem....Thoughts?

DBJoe996

Could be the starter bendix hung up on the flywheel for a split second because it was cold and didn't move back quick enough. There is some grease on the starter shaft that the bendix rides on. Move to a warmer climate!

Rick_K

Its rare that the car sits outside overnight......You're saying lube the shaft....LOL......Just wondering if maybe the starter motor needed shimming a slight bid.....is that acceptable practice? The starter itself maybe tired 60K miles and it sounds like it could be a little slow....I would have to listen to another car to make a for sure statement.....Thanks

DBJoe996

No shimming. What I was saying was the grease lube on the shaft may have been so cold that it hung up the bendix for a second. At 60K miles, and a noticeable slow start, not a bad idea to consider a new Bosch starter. You can get one off Amazon.

Rick_K

Thank You

5CHN3LL

Once you replace the starter, you will realize just how bad your starter had gotten.

Macster

Surprisingly more ignition switches than starters act up with these cars.

Could be the ignition switch was slow to move back to the on/run position.

If the starter pinion gear is in fact dragging on the shaft and causing the overrun clutch to well overrun the symptom should appear again.

And it might not.

I had this behavior with my Boxster a while back but the noise went away on its own and has been gone now for a while. Don't know how long it has been gone other than I know it didn't appear this winter so maybe the winter before?

Ahsai

Either lube it if you don't care about the labor or replace it with a new Bosch one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EPSYG8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492819650&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&vehicle=2002-2-10-55--7-6-7-3122-31-1-1-534--18-0&dpPl=1&dpID=41lMnYFRuRL&ref=plSrch

Hurdigurdiman

if your starter motor is behind the alternator as it is on the 996, be very careful removing the alternator. There are small evap lines around there which will break in a heart beat causing you lots of untold DIY work..

ltusler

And if you replace it, get a real Bosch part. I tried o supposed rebuilt from rock auto. It did not work. They did take it back though.

Rick_K

Thank You all

Symptoms happened again this weekend so a new starter is on order.

dan_189

Guys sorry to resurrect an old thread, i'm planning on replacing my starter with a new Bosch unit soon.

One question: do the two M10 bolts holding the starter in place require any blue loctite for extra strength or is the standard torque (below) enough?

The factory manual makes no reference to using locktite but it does in other places so i'm assuming its not required but I did want to check.

DBJoe996

I've replaced the starter motor several times. No loctite needed or used. Standard torque is enough (good luck getting a torque wrench in there, or even getting an accurate torque with so many extensions and swivels needed to tighten the M10 bolts). With so much stuff removed to replace the starter, make sure on backing out of the job you check and double check the vacuum lines and connections, particularly the resonance flap vacuum line. You don't want to have to "go back in" to run down a vacuum leak or intake system leak.

dan_189

Thanks Joe,

​​​​​Got this done on a fellow Australian forum members '99 on the weekend. We used one really long extension and were able to get the torque wrench on but we did have the alternator removed to replace the starter cable so that helped.

We actually did break some lines because they were so brittle, replaced them and it was fixed... Or so we thought. The throttle cable was slightly jammed causing a high idle which we thought was the vacuum lines! Pulled it all apart put it all back together only to discover it was the cable on the TB! All ended well so no problems
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dan_189

Gents, what's the best way to remove the lower starter bolt without removing the alternator?

I'm fairly comfortable with the R&R procedure but when we did this on the weekend we had the alternator removed which provided clear access to the lower starter bolt. I'm not too keen on removing the alternator if I don't have to.

What ways have people gotten to the second bolt?
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