msteiner805

Hi All,
Hoping to get some help with this problem before I start replacing parts.

I recently swapped out my original 1999 transmission (6 speed manual) with a low mileage one from a 2001 996. The transmissions looked identical when I compared them while they were both out of the car. The original trans was trashed (3rd + 4th would grind and not engage). Hence the swap.

In doing this job, I did not swap out my clutch slave cylinder. I kept the one attached to the car & the 1999 trans, as I was hoping to not have to bleed the clutch again. I installed a new clutch fork, release bearing, clutch, pressure plate. All this was from a kit (Sachs + Pelican Parts).

Right wow, I have the car on jacks, and, the wheels are not touching the ground.

Here is what I'm experiencing:

-with the clutch in, car in neutral, no brake applied, everything is fine (solid idle), wheels aren't spinning.
-with the clutch in, put the car in gear, no brake applied, idle is good, wheels start spinning (LOL why???)
-with the clutch out, car in gear, no brake applied, idle is good, wheels are spinning (LOL why again???)

Here's where something is wrong:
-with the clutch pedal all the way in, car in gear, brake applied, idle gets too low and car stalls...

So, what did I screw up LOL?

Thanks,
Mike

Kalashnikov

-with the clutch in, car in neutral, no brake applied, everything is fine (solid idle), wheels aren't spinning.Normal
-with the clutch in, put the car in gear, no brake applied, idle is good, wheels start spinning (LOL why???)Looks like clutch is slightly engaged even with pedal depressed
-with the clutch out, car in gear, no brake applied, idle is good, wheels are spinning (LOL why again???)Normal. Car in is gear, with no resistance wheels will spin when car is idling and OFF the ground.
-with the clutch pedal all the way in, car in gear, brake applied, idle gets too low and car stalls...Because it looks like your clutch is engaging even when pedal is depressed, you pressing on the brakes stalls the engine

Ahsai

Yup, agree with Kalash. The question is why though. You sure the dics and clutch fork were put on correctly and also the fork pivot is in good condition? Other than that, it could be air in the clutch system also.

Fig 6 and Fig 13 here http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

msteiner805

Yeah, pretty sure I did it right, checked the clutch disc was pointing the right way... fork pivot is new. Pretty much all new parts. Made sure all the parts were compatible.

Thanks for the photos. I used the updated clutch fork and fork pivot per the instructions from Pelican... no plastic piece.

So bleeding the clutch would be a good first step here?

How would air get in there if I didn't open it up...?

msteiner805

Edit: Do not test a slave cylinder like this. I made this mistake without knowing any better...

So maybe I found my problem...

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1...S1sUERHOVRQOWM

Ahsai

Are you serious?? lol

5CHN3LL

Sh*t, I just realized why my brake fluid is slowly draining even though the braking system is spotless.

808Bill

So you replaced a good trans it sounds/looks like...

Dan951Man

For the record, you are NEVER supposed to touch the clutch pedal with the slave removed. This will destroy a brand new slave as well as yours. You just showed me a video of you murdering parts.
The slave is fully extended when you remove it. You are forcing the piston past its endstop and dislodging the springlock. You "may" be able to pull the boot off and reassemble it, with mixed results.
To me it sounds like the disk is sticking on the splines, or the pilot bearing is F'd(unlikely)
You can also reach in the slave hole with your finger, you should be able to wiggle the fork in and out a little bit.

msteiner805

Potentially. I have the other trans removed and in the process of taking it apart. We will see what it shows, but, it had some pretty bad symptoms that didn't seem related to the clutch at the time. But yeah, could've have been good all along. We'll see.

msteiner805

Huh... ok, I think that makes sense. So I broke it by doing this? It may have been good all along? Crap... at least the next guy will now know what not to do.

The theory I was going on was that it should hold fluid no matter what and if it was leaking, this test (murdering LOL) would show that. Thanks for letting me know this test was a dumb idea. I have a new slave on order.

"To me it sounds like the disk is sticking on the splines". This is interesting - as in it would make sense. I applied spline grease, but maybe not enough? I'm prepared to take the trans out again - what would I look for here as getting the trans in was a real pain and I'd prefer to avoid that in-n-out...

Thanks,
Mike

fpb111

You most likely had air in the system before you popped the slave.

msteiner805

Thanks everyone for your comments and help.

Over the last 2 evenings, I pulled out the trans (again LOL), checked the clutch disc and pressure plate. All looked good. The spline on the transmission was smooth, I checked the clutch disc for fit on the spline and it rode smoothly. Checked the pivot pieces ... all looked good. There was no issue between the trans and the engine.

I re-assembled everything carefully and bled the slave cylinder that came with the used transmission (since I murdered the other one LOL). I immediately noticed the clutch pedal resistance as different.

Started the car, all good - no moving wheels with the clutch engaged. Took a drive and shifted through gears... and... incredibly smooth. I had only driven the car 150 miles or so when I picked it up and the difference now is night and day. Its also nice to be able to use 3rd and 4th!

So, after spending an extra 8 hours or so this weekend doing this, here are my take aways:
- bleed the clutch fluid with every clutch job
- DO NOT ENGAGE THE CLUTCH WITH THE SLAVE CYLINDER DETACHED.

Again, thanks everyone!

Regards,
Mike

Ahsai

Glad you got it sorted.