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Falcon, Since there is no leak at the RMS and given the maximum miles on the engine, you may want to ponder the question of replacing it. Personally, all considered, I'd leave it alone. Smarter people than me may disagree, so if you're not in a rush, maybe allow time for some further opinions, if you haven't already pulled the old one. Keep up the great work & good luck with the remainder of the project.
Awesome write up and pics. I am sure a lot of people will be referencing this in the future. I stumbled upon the thread and had to read it. Nice score for $10K
Thanks! It has been a good project and I have learned a lot. I sorta hate that I didn't take more notes as I was doing the work. At that time, I was just taking reference pictures to document what I took off, and where it went, and what it looked liked, so that I knew how it all went back together.
If I find the right car, and I have the opportunity to do it again, I will be ahead of the curve and will be able to document and possibly video each step of the process.
Falcon, Since there is no leak at the RMS and given the maximum miles on the engine, you may want to ponder the question of replacing it. Personally, all considered, I'd leave it alone. Smarter people than me may disagree, so if you're not in a rush, maybe allow time for some further opinions, if you haven't already pulled the old one. Keep up the great work & good luck with the remainder of the project.
Not to skip too much ahead, but have already replaced the RMS. I actually bought a tool off of EBay that was fabricated to easily install it to the 13mm depth. My thinking was this...IF the engine had 70k miles on it, then it would be a no brainer to replace it. I couldn't tell if it had been leaking since the dismantler had steam cleaned it before shipping. Even if it only had 35,000 miles, it was a simple decision, since it reset the clock on that part of the engine and hopefully wouldn't have to worry about it for another 75-100k miles. Also, I knew for sure that I had a redesigned RMS in there.
It wasn't a hard project to do, and I will know if it was successful, when I get the car buttoned back up and see if I have a leak. Pictures and write-up to come later.
Time to tackle the water pump. Easy project and detailed in Wayne's book very well.
Next item to be replaced, the water pump. Easy...easy...easy.
After removing the obvious bolts, comes scraping off the gasket. Keep track of where the bolts go. Some are longer than others. Also, the gasket extends under areas that are not removed. You need to cut or snip the water pump part out.
I had a little bit of corrosion inside. I figure it sat for a couple of years, with coolant in there...just sitting. No rust colored stuff in coolant, when I pulled the pump off. Also, check the impeller for missing chunks that could clog passage ways.
The new gasket is larger and has gasket material that needs to be cut off. I placed the larger gasket on the water pump, and scribed the area that needed to be removed. I did this with tin snips.
Next, place the water pump back on the engine and replace bolts and torque to spec.
Next, I wanted to address the power steering pump, on the replacement engine. I noticed that there was a lot of black "gunk" on top and on the front of the engine. It looks like it was leaking from the seal where the pulley is located.
That's a shame. It should be possible to do a compression check an on engine outside of the car by just directly hooking a battery to the starter. Probably a good idea in general before installing a used motor.
Sorry for just dropping the post, like I did. I hate it when I come across threads that don’t have a conclusion. My apologies, and thanks for checking back.
The bottom line is......the project was a huge success!
I was able to get all the accessories pit back on, swapped out the power steering pump, new AOS, new coolant reservoir, new plugs and raised the transmission/engine back into place. All the connectors, hoses, and mounts were easy to get back in and nobody was more surprised when she fired right up, than I was. I kept expecting a CEL or a horrible noise. Nope.
I sold the car for A LOT more than I had in it, and flipped that money into a couple more projects that I am currently working on. One of them is a ‘99 996, with a TIp, that had an engine failure. I attended Jake Raby’s engine Rebuilding Class, and am working on that. I just finished rebuilding a Tiptronic on a 2003 Boxster, and currently I am resurrecting a ‘97 Boxster that I bought for $700. The $700 Boxster is now running, passed Smog, registered and drives beautifully.
$700?? The lobster claws are worth more than that, well played!
Yep, that is what really sealed the deal. There were 4 different makes of fires on the car, in 3 different sizes. Drove like crap.
The Lobster Claws are 18 inch wheels, which are too big for a ‘97 Boxster. Gonna sell em i think. Anybody have any idea who makes 18 » lobster claws, from Italy?
04-13-2017, 07:17 PM
