CEL came back...Finally got around to getting a Durametric
#47
Rennlist Member
Update: I'm just about ready to start taking stuff apart, as I've got the car on jack stands and I've got about 25.25 " from floor to bottom of engine (oil sump plate)... Is this enough? I think I've read 24" but I don't know where those measurements were taken to/from. A few more:
1) Better/Easier to remove Engine/Tranny as one unit? Or separate first? I'm thinking drop first then separate, but I'm open to suggestions...
2) Any recommendations on the chains themselves? I don't need anything super high performance, but if there is an updated/upgraded part within a reasonable cost range I would go with that.
3) ^Same^ for the chain-tensioner pads.
1) Better/Easier to remove Engine/Tranny as one unit? Or separate first? I'm thinking drop first then separate, but I'm open to suggestions...
2) Any recommendations on the chains themselves? I don't need anything super high performance, but if there is an updated/upgraded part within a reasonable cost range I would go with that.
3) ^Same^ for the chain-tensioner pads.
Your don't have much choice on the parts.. the long chain comes in a endless link that requires to split the case to install, and a master link type that can be installed without removing the heads. The pads are just replacement OEM.. no upgrades available that I know of.
#48
Rennlist Member
Looks like several of us were answering the same questions at the same time...lol I could have saved mine instead of being redundant..No one had answered Dporto when I started my post but got interrupted before I finished then I posted last..
Lots of friendly helpful people here !!!
Lots of friendly helpful people here !!!
#49
Drifting
I could not find it on Pelican:http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ENGCAM_pg1.htm
If you are looking for the Raby developed Master-Link Chain ,suggest you try RND Euro Parts. Part # is 996 105 177 53 , only $52. Here:
http://store.rndeuroparts.com/catalo...a/Catalog.aspx
Free shipping+no tx for most.
Their street address has a reassuring ring to it:
57 Raby Drive
Cleveland, GA 30528
Coincidence ?
If you are looking for the Raby developed Master-Link Chain ,suggest you try RND Euro Parts. Part # is 996 105 177 53 , only $52. Here:
http://store.rndeuroparts.com/catalo...a/Catalog.aspx
Free shipping+no tx for most.
Their street address has a reassuring ring to it:
57 Raby Drive
Cleveland, GA 30528
Coincidence ?
#50
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
RnD...Jake's mantra - no surprise there. I looked on the LNE website and didn't see the cam chains. I'll check RND. And Thanks! for all the responses.
#52
Rennlist Member
I could not find it on Pelican:http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ENGCAM_pg1.htm
If you are looking for the Raby developed Master-Link Chain ,suggest you try RND Euro Parts. Part # is 996 105 177 53 , only $52. Here:
http://store.rndeuroparts.com/catalo...a/Catalog.aspx
Free shipping+no tx for most.
Their street address has a reassuring ring to it:
57 Raby Drive
Cleveland, GA 30528
Coincidence ?
If you are looking for the Raby developed Master-Link Chain ,suggest you try RND Euro Parts. Part # is 996 105 177 53 , only $52. Here:
http://store.rndeuroparts.com/catalo...a/Catalog.aspx
Free shipping+no tx for most.
Their street address has a reassuring ring to it:
57 Raby Drive
Cleveland, GA 30528
Coincidence ?
#53
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I could not find it on Pelican:http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ENGCAM_pg1.htm
If you are looking for the Raby developed Master-Link Chain ,suggest you try RND Euro Parts. Part # is 996 105 177 53 , only $52. Here:
http://store.rndeuroparts.com/catalo...a/Catalog.aspx
Free shipping+no tx for most.
Their street address has a reassuring ring to it:
57 Raby Drive
Cleveland, GA 30528
Coincidence ?
If you are looking for the Raby developed Master-Link Chain ,suggest you try RND Euro Parts. Part # is 996 105 177 53 , only $52. Here:
http://store.rndeuroparts.com/catalo...a/Catalog.aspx
Free shipping+no tx for most.
Their street address has a reassuring ring to it:
57 Raby Drive
Cleveland, GA 30528
Coincidence ?
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=103-10
#54
Drifting
If you are replacing only the cam-to-cam chain I don't understand the logic.
You have to remove both cams and then the cam-to-cam chain to replace the pads on the Actuator. So what then would be the point of a Master Link in the cam to cam chain ? AFIK the Master link is only in the IMS to Ex sprocket chain. Hence my link. Chain w/o Master link are easy/cheap to find.
You have to remove both cams and then the cam-to-cam chain to replace the pads on the Actuator. So what then would be the point of a Master Link in the cam to cam chain ? AFIK the Master link is only in the IMS to Ex sprocket chain. Hence my link. Chain w/o Master link are easy/cheap to find.
#55
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I never said anything about a master link, so I don't know the logic either...I was never planning on replacing all the chains, i just figured if i was doing the cam chain pads, it might make sense to do the chains too.
#58
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok, so my understanding is that the cam chains will be accessible by removing the cam covers. To get to the other chains, doesn't it entail removing the heads etc.? I'd much rather that this didn't become a full engine refresh, if I can help it. I'd like to get this done in a month of nights/weekends etc. - six weeks on the outside. While I'll certainly open to address issues as I run into them, I'm not approaching this as a huge project. Removing the heads and/or separating the case halves qualifies as "a huge project" in my book. Had this problem surfaced last fall, I might have taken it on over the winter... Opposing view points/recommendations welcome.
#60
Race Director
Ok, so my understanding is that the cam chains will be accessible by removing the cam covers. To get to the other chains, doesn't it entail removing the heads etc.? I'd much rather that this didn't become a full engine refresh, if I can help it. I'd like to get this done in a month of nights/weekends etc. - six weeks on the outside. While I'll certainly open to address issues as I run into them, I'm not approaching this as a huge project. Removing the heads and/or separating the case halves qualifies as "a huge project" in my book. Had this problem surfaced last fall, I might have taken it on over the winter... Opposing view points/recommendations welcome.
The error code points to the VarioCam solenoid/actuator. Just working the solenoid using a Durametric only tells you at that time the solenoid is working.
When my Boxster manifested a bad solenoid/actuator I "fixed" this by turning off the engine and then upon restart just a few moments later the symptoms were gone and remained gone for a 30 mile drive back home. I'm pretty sure had I "tested" the solenoid with a Durametric it would have worked just fine.
If you believe the chains need to be replaced then you are faced with removing the engine from the car. The camshaft covers come off to get at the small chain that runs from the exhaust cam to the intake cam and upon/or against which the VarioCam actuator works to vary the intake cam timing.
To replace the cam chains that run from the IMS to the exhaust cam -- one at the front of the engine and one at the rear -- I'm not sure what is required to be disassembled and removed.
The same goes for the chain that runs from the crankshaft to the iMS.
While I don't think cases have to be split it is a major repair.
If you replace the chains you should consider replacing the chain guides/rails and the chain hydraulic tensioners too. If the chains are worn enough to justify replacement the sprockets have to be considered worn and in need of replacement too. From my motorcycle days one never just replaced a worn out chain wtihout also replacing the sprockets.