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In removing the transmission to perform an IMS replacement, one of the seven bolts to the motor was seized and a small piece of engine casting broke off when removing it. The bolt hole is now useless. I've been assured that replacing six of the seven bolts is acceptable and that there would be no ill affects because of the missing bolt. Fixing it involves removing the engine and repairing the hole. That obviously would be very costly. I'm not thrilled about my options.
I've seen this several times here on RL. In fact, a guy (Hawk) recently purchased a Mk2 Yellow Cabriolet and had it inspected. Upon inspection, the transmission was damaged as you described.
If it's a tab on the transmission that's broken, there's no need to remove the engine... The shop that broke it should own the repair - that's why you bring a car to a shop in the first place (because they're supposed to be able to fix it without breaking it). "I've been assured that replacing six of the seven bolts is acceptable and that there would be no ill affects because of the missing bolt." That's unacceptable in my book...
Unfortunately it's the hole in the engine casing that's damaged. I've asked if there is enough hole left to install a helicoil. If not, the motor has to come out to repair the hole. At this point, it's difficult to accuse the mechanic of improper work. The bolt was seized in the motor and there were other signs of corrosion. In trying to back the bolt out of the motor a small piece of the casting broke off around the bolt hole. I'm not going to rely on six out of seven bolts to hold the tranny to the motor. Somehow it will be repaired.
Without seeing the damaged area I have no idea if this will work, but I've used this product successfully in the past to repair damaged threads in an aluminum part. Works quite nicely and depending on access you might be able to do it with the engine in situ.
Unfortunately it's the hole in the engine casing that's damaged. I've asked if there is enough hole left to install a helicoil. If not, the motor has to come out to repair the hole. At this point, it's difficult to accuse the mechanic of improper work. The bolt was seized in the motor and there were other signs of corrosion. In trying to back the bolt out of the motor a small piece of the casting broke off around the bolt hole. I'm not going to rely on six out of seven bolts to hold the tranny to the motor. Somehow it will be repaired.
WoW! That blows... Yeah, I would agree that there wouldn't be much he could do or know about how/when the block would give up as opposed to the threads. It would have been better had the bolt snapped... bummer for sure! That being said, I'm sure there's a way to fix it - hopefully without dropping the motor. Good luck
This may be an valuable learning experience for other fasteners on these cars in rust-prone areas. So much trouble for lack of a little Kroil+patience. That is one problem in a shop - if the car is already taking up limited(expensive) lift space and the mechanic is '0n the clock' ,short-cutting by cranking up the setting on an air tool is an issue.One small advantage a diligent diy guy sometimes has.
The only place I use an air tool on these cars is to release the rear axle center nut.
The other issue with the engine bellhousing bolts- if you measure the depth of the threaded holes and compare with the bolts - they are all too short ! Why? And why not use studs -at least because they act as guide pins .I have never had a problem using s/s full depth threaded studs(loctite 242) and nuts(290) .Surprised it isn't more widely used.
I've seen this several times here on RL. In fact, a guy (Hawk) recently purchased a Mk2 Yellow Cabriolet and had it inspected. Upon inspection, the transmission was damaged as you described.
The bolt that seized was the second from the top. The broken piece of engine case was heliarced back and the hole was re-threaded. The engine had to be removed in order to make the repair making the replacement of the IMS an expensive proposition. While at the shop other services were done - new rubber, coolant reservoir, belt, plugs, all liquids flushed and replaced. They did a nice job cleaning everything. The engine bay looks like new. I've run the car some miles since and it feels and sounds great. Only 25,000 miles and it feels like it just came out of the showroom. It was costly but am happy with the result.
Remember this if you ever try to remove the steel bolts on the headers...... Kroil ,patience,limited force,more kroil,..... Replace with stainless steel studs+thread sealer,not bolts.
03-03-2017, 06:57 AM
Removing Transmission
