Sarki

Anybody who regularly wrenches have a recommendation on a decent lower/mid level cost torque wrench. Looking to add a few useful tools so I can perform some common repairs to the 996 as well as the other cars in the garage.
Probably need to add a both a smaller and larger torque wrench.
If you have specific brands and models that would be greatly appreciated.

charlieaf92

You can borrow them for free from autozone. But outside of that my experience has been only with craftsman torque wrenches. I'd definitely recommend a 'click' style vs the bendy shaft style (I stripped a hole out reinstalling a turbo on my FD with one of those). My first craftsman click wrench broke during the first major project (IMS solution install) the ratchet head started slipping intermittently. Of course they swapped it out quick and easy. The second one I've only used a couple times and it's been great. Keep an eye on the sears website as they're on sale for 30-40% off pretty regularly.

texcwa

I have gone through several in my years and to date the one I like the best is the TEKTON 24335. It will not torque left handed threads (unless you disassemble and reverse) but how often do you need to. Great quality and even better customer service.

Ahsai

The one I use most is the snapon 5-75ftlb flex head. A few degrees makes a big difference in tight space. It's not cheap but it will last multiple life times.

Just keep an eye on ebay for a new one, usually 30% cheaper than buying it directly from snapon.

You will also need an inlb and a split beam 250 ftlb for suspension stuff. Those can be precision instrument.

Slakker

+1 on Tekton. I have a 3/8" and 2 - 1/2" from Amazon and I couldn't be happier with them for the price. I didn't expect to when I bought them, but I use crap out of these things.

dkraige

I own 2 Craftsman torque wrenches; a 1/2" drive Digitork unit for most applications, and a 3/8" drive Microtork for lower-torque applications. I can say I MUCH prefer the Digitork. The Digitork has numerical displays in little windows, both ft-lb and N-m, are completely idiot-proof, and don't require batteries. The locking mechanism is also really easy to use and never slips; you pull out the **** on the end of the handle, turn it to set, and then release it and it automatically locks.




The Microtork has more of a micrometer-style gauge where you have to add the value on the shaft to the ticks around the rotating grip. It's not so bad in in-lb since the clicks are in increments of in-lb, but for N-m the clicks are of course an uneven increment so it's a pain in the neck to do the math and figure out where you need to be. The locking mechanism is also more finicky since there is a separate locking collar from the rotating handle, and it comes unlocked easily, which lets the handle spin and loses your torque setting.




Both do super-repeatable torques, and I've had both of them for >10 years with no issues; the Digitork is just a lot easier to use.

RngTrtl

im with dk. I really love the digitorque by craftsman. easy to use, easy to read, and never let me down.

Slakker

I might have to check out a digitork.

extanker

according to your specs ....sears craftsman

spruden

Precision Instruments is the gold standard of US made torque wrenches. They make them for snap on (or used to).

If you want the best and don't want to pay for a recognizable brand name, buy a precision instruments. You can find them on amazon and through other online retailers for roughly the same price as a typical US non-professional brand (craftsman, etc...).

KoB

If you're trolling eBay for a used torque wrench, you might also keep an eye out for a CDI torque wrench. CDI is a Snap-on brand ... not well known, so sometimes they sell pretty cheaply. I have a 1/2" Craftsman digital torque wrench that I use for wheels and a 1/2" CDI that I use for most other purposes.

sfv_rider

Probably no one here needs a regularly recurring NIST level calibration and logging, but an occasional recalibration is a good thing.

And +1 on the Precision Instruments recommendation.

OKB

just so you get a 1/2" and a 3/8" and get at least craftsman - up , you should be fine

5CHN3LL

Make sure whichever one you purchase for torquing wheel lugs has a set screw or other way of locking the wrench at a specific value. It's really irritating to finish torquing a wheel only to discover that you managed to dial the wrench back 20 lb-ft and you have to start over...

rellim

+1
they do in the jet engine department