Torque Wrench Recommendations
03-14-2017, 05:44 PM
#31
Race Director
03-14-2017, 05:50 PM
#32
I have 3 Craftsman click style wrenches. Decent beater wrenches. Been using them for about 4 years and only one failed. For more precise work I use a Snap on digital 5-100 ft.lb wrench. Excellent tool but rather pricey at almost $500.
https://store.snapon.com/Standard-Mo...e-P644452.aspx
https://store.snapon.com/Standard-Mo...e-P644452.aspx
03-15-2017, 12:54 AM
#34
I picked up a Kobalt at Lowes a few weeks ago for $70 for cranking my lug nuts at the track. Better than the Home Depot model and the Autozone model for a few bucks less.
03-15-2017, 10:45 AM
#35
Race Director
03-15-2017, 11:29 AM
#36
Once I decided I was going to spend ~$100 on a torque wrench used 5 times a year vs. $300-500 on a super cool digital, .0000001% accurate torque wrench used by F1 racing teams, I narrowed my search to tools available within a few miles of my house that I could touch and feel.
On the Autozone model, the one they sell was the same one they rent. So I took the rental home and tried it out. The plastic handle and adjustment ***** were split and broken, and the ****/gnurl used to hold on the socket was broken. That led me question the long-term durability of their model for $20 more than the Kobalt. The Home Depot model didn't have the detailed/finite adjustments that the Kobalt had and it had more plastic on it than the Kobalt which seemed to be a problem with the Autozone model....plus it was $15 more.
All that led me to determine the Kobalt was a better product for the money for the things that were important to me. And guess what, I haven't stripped a lug or been passed by one of my tires at a track event since I bought it so it must be working....right?
On the Autozone model, the one they sell was the same one they rent. So I took the rental home and tried it out. The plastic handle and adjustment ***** were split and broken, and the ****/gnurl used to hold on the socket was broken. That led me question the long-term durability of their model for $20 more than the Kobalt. The Home Depot model didn't have the detailed/finite adjustments that the Kobalt had and it had more plastic on it than the Kobalt which seemed to be a problem with the Autozone model....plus it was $15 more.
All that led me to determine the Kobalt was a better product for the money for the things that were important to me. And guess what, I haven't stripped a lug or been passed by one of my tires at a track event since I bought it so it must be working....right?
03-15-2017, 11:32 AM
#37
Race Director
so the appearance of plastic on an item and damage on a tool that autozone lends to every jabroni on the street leads you to believe your choice was better? Interesting.
And since you haven't lost a wheel or stripped a lug (which have the ability to handle probably 75% more torque than recommended), you feel its accurate?
That tells me all I need to know.
And since you haven't lost a wheel or stripped a lug (which have the ability to handle probably 75% more torque than recommended), you feel its accurate?
That tells me all I need to know.
03-15-2017, 11:40 AM
#38
so the appearance of plastic on an item and damage on a tool that autozone lends to every jabroni on the street leads you to believe your choice was better? Interesting.
And since you haven't lost a wheel or stripped a lug (which have the ability to handle probably 75% more torque than recommended), you feel its accurate?
That tells me all I need to know.
And since you haven't lost a wheel or stripped a lug (which have the ability to handle probably 75% more torque than recommended), you feel its accurate?
That tells me all I need to know.
03-15-2017, 11:42 AM
#39
Quad, I'm not sure what the problem is. Someone asked a question about what torque wrenches people were using. I provided the option that I chose to join in the discussion because I hadn't seen the model I chose discussed yet. You questioned my opinion so I gave you my logic in why I decided what I did. If you would've provided your comprehensive checklist on how every Porsche owner should choose their torque wrench on pg. 1, we all could've save 3 pages worth of posts and discussion.
You have 11,000+ posts on this board and I'm new to the Porsche world and have 9, now 10 posts. Maybe this isn't the place for me. Can you tell me if you are a poster on 6speedonline as well? I'd like to join a good group discussion about 996's and learn and contribute as much as I can, but avoid your condescending posts. Good day and enjoy the view from your ivory tower.
You have 11,000+ posts on this board and I'm new to the Porsche world and have 9, now 10 posts. Maybe this isn't the place for me. Can you tell me if you are a poster on 6speedonline as well? I'd like to join a good group discussion about 996's and learn and contribute as much as I can, but avoid your condescending posts. Good day and enjoy the view from your ivory tower.
03-15-2017, 11:42 AM
#40
Race Director
I said they work fine in most cases and, in the case of torque wrenches, performed as well or better than other more expensive options. Then again, i'm not sure you'd know what end of a torque wrench to use, so it might be moot
03-15-2017, 12:49 PM
#42
Race Director
If you're using the non-ratchet end, I'm assuming you're using it as a club. In this case, avoiding models with plastic might be advisable depending on how often and to what extent you club people. I'd hate to have something break off mid-clubbing, so I use my all-metal, 1/2" drive torque wrench.
03-15-2017, 02:55 PM
#43
Most of the time, HF (and any other low/mid quality tool) are actually fine. I have my "good" torque wrenches certified and all the HF ones that I've tested against them are pretty accurate. I've also tested (all of) them against a digital torque reader and the Proto/CDI/Craftsman/Kobalt/HF/whatever all read pretty close - especially in the primary working zone for the torque wrench (of course extremes have more margin of error, regardless of brand). You can use a simple hanging weight test to confirm as well. IIRC, even snap-on has something like 5% error in their readings.
IMO, for most projects people are using HF for (e.g. wheels) you don't need any appreciable improvement in the level of precision that might come with a very expensive tool. For extremely high tolerance connections (aka expensive parts), I would probably double check the torque anyway. As with most repairs, user error is going to be the most likely cause of problems with any tool, regardless of where it's made.
As to the original question: in terms of torque wrenches, I prefer the click-type with handle adjustment. Some of these have a pull down locking mechanism to keep you at your chosen torque, which I find helpful for doing a lot of the same type of connection, but I hate when I have to change it all the time. I don't like the thumb-wheel variants. Be sure you have a wrench that has the right range for what you're doing. For wheels, something with a top range of like 150 works. For axle nuts, you need ~600 ft lb one. If you get to that, I would try to borrow one as they're pricey. I find I have a tendency to (more easily) over-torque with my longer torque wrenches for some reason. Also pay attention to the head. If you have a bunch of 3/8" sockets, be sure you get the right wrench (or at least a step-up adapter for 3/8->1/2), which you can get at HF for almost nothing! ha! For most higher torque applications, you'll probably want 1/2" sockets and/or impact sockets anyway.
Lastly, for the incremental price difference between HF and a Kobalt/Craftsman, I'd probably go with the Kobalt/Craftsman because they have a better rotating/locking mechanism and the fit/finish is better. But, I'd definitely have a backup HF though. Hell, you can test it yourself once you do!
-td
IMO, for most projects people are using HF for (e.g. wheels) you don't need any appreciable improvement in the level of precision that might come with a very expensive tool. For extremely high tolerance connections (aka expensive parts), I would probably double check the torque anyway. As with most repairs, user error is going to be the most likely cause of problems with any tool, regardless of where it's made.
As to the original question: in terms of torque wrenches, I prefer the click-type with handle adjustment. Some of these have a pull down locking mechanism to keep you at your chosen torque, which I find helpful for doing a lot of the same type of connection, but I hate when I have to change it all the time. I don't like the thumb-wheel variants. Be sure you have a wrench that has the right range for what you're doing. For wheels, something with a top range of like 150 works. For axle nuts, you need ~600 ft lb one. If you get to that, I would try to borrow one as they're pricey. I find I have a tendency to (more easily) over-torque with my longer torque wrenches for some reason. Also pay attention to the head. If you have a bunch of 3/8" sockets, be sure you get the right wrench (or at least a step-up adapter for 3/8->1/2), which you can get at HF for almost nothing! ha! For most higher torque applications, you'll probably want 1/2" sockets and/or impact sockets anyway.
Lastly, for the incremental price difference between HF and a Kobalt/Craftsman, I'd probably go with the Kobalt/Craftsman because they have a better rotating/locking mechanism and the fit/finish is better. But, I'd definitely have a backup HF though. Hell, you can test it yourself once you do!
-td
03-15-2017, 05:42 PM
#44
Three Wheelin'
Most of the time, HF (and any other low/mid quality tool) are actually fine. I have my "good" torque wrenches certified and all the HF ones that I've tested against them are pretty accurate. I've also tested (all of) them against a digital torque reader and the Proto/CDI/Craftsman/Kobalt/HF/whatever all read pretty close - especially in the primary working zone for the torque wrench (of course extremes have more margin of error, regardless of brand). You can use a simple hanging weight test to confirm as well. IIRC, even snap-on has something like 5% error in their readings.
IMO, for most projects people are using HF for (e.g. wheels) you don't need any appreciable improvement in the level of precision that might come with a very expensive tool. For extremely high tolerance connections (aka expensive parts), I would probably double check the torque anyway. As with most repairs, user error is going to be the most likely cause of problems with any tool, regardless of where it's made.
As to the original question: in terms of torque wrenches, I prefer the click-type with handle adjustment. Some of these have a pull down locking mechanism to keep you at your chosen torque, which I find helpful for doing a lot of the same type of connection, but I hate when I have to change it all the time. I don't like the thumb-wheel variants. Be sure you have a wrench that has the right range for what you're doing. For wheels, something with a top range of like 150 works. For axle nuts, you need ~600 ft lb one. If you get to that, I would try to borrow one as they're pricey. I find I have a tendency to (more easily) over-torque with my longer torque wrenches for some reason. Also pay attention to the head. If you have a bunch of 3/8" sockets, be sure you get the right wrench (or at least a step-up adapter for 3/8->1/2), which you can get at HF for almost nothing! ha! For most higher torque applications, you'll probably want 1/2" sockets and/or impact sockets anyway.
Lastly, for the incremental price difference between HF and a Kobalt/Craftsman, I'd probably go with the Kobalt/Craftsman because they have a better rotating/locking mechanism and the fit/finish is better. But, I'd definitely have a backup HF though. Hell, you can test it yourself once you do!
-td
IMO, for most projects people are using HF for (e.g. wheels) you don't need any appreciable improvement in the level of precision that might come with a very expensive tool. For extremely high tolerance connections (aka expensive parts), I would probably double check the torque anyway. As with most repairs, user error is going to be the most likely cause of problems with any tool, regardless of where it's made.
As to the original question: in terms of torque wrenches, I prefer the click-type with handle adjustment. Some of these have a pull down locking mechanism to keep you at your chosen torque, which I find helpful for doing a lot of the same type of connection, but I hate when I have to change it all the time. I don't like the thumb-wheel variants. Be sure you have a wrench that has the right range for what you're doing. For wheels, something with a top range of like 150 works. For axle nuts, you need ~600 ft lb one. If you get to that, I would try to borrow one as they're pricey. I find I have a tendency to (more easily) over-torque with my longer torque wrenches for some reason. Also pay attention to the head. If you have a bunch of 3/8" sockets, be sure you get the right wrench (or at least a step-up adapter for 3/8->1/2), which you can get at HF for almost nothing! ha! For most higher torque applications, you'll probably want 1/2" sockets and/or impact sockets anyway.
Lastly, for the incremental price difference between HF and a Kobalt/Craftsman, I'd probably go with the Kobalt/Craftsman because they have a better rotating/locking mechanism and the fit/finish is better. But, I'd definitely have a backup HF though. Hell, you can test it yourself once you do!
-td
well stated
