m3driver

I don't think you are even close...he said the car acts up when the code is present and acts normal when he clears the code....this is an electronic issue

Ahsai

What electronic issue you have in mind? One that only manifests itself at idle? Op said "The car gets a wild hair in the tail pipe, I will get a CEL 0302 about 5 to 10 times a day but it only happens when im on a dead stop"

Macster

could that happened randomly like 1 day and not for another week or month?

Yes. Unfortunately some problems are intermittent.

Might add I put up with a P0430 from my Boxster for a few years, the only code the car ever produced during that time. Didn't change the fact a converter was bad -- and intermittently bad (loose in its housing). For months the error would not appear then it would. I found a change in gasoline -- switching from a discount brand to using Shell V-Power -- cut down on the frequency of the appearance of the CEL/error but didn't keep it at bay entirely.The knocking from the converter when cold and the buzzing from it when hot finally got to me and I replaced both exhaust manifolds. CEL remained dark. Error gone. Noises gone.

I do that every morning I let it idle until the RPM drops

The absence of any issues from a cold start and idle does not take a lifter (or two) off the list of possible explanations but it does drop the possibility down a place or two. Maybe.

the only code ive had is P0320 for the past 2 yrs

P0320 or P0302? Big difference. P0320: Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit. P0302: Cylinder 2 misfire detected.

Are you checking for any pending error codes?


I used seafoam in the tank

I have no experience with Seafoam. I have experience with Techron and if something that one can add to the gas tank can help Techron is the stuff to use.

Yes I use Mobil 1 euro 0w40 only

That is a good oil in spite of its bad press. My Boxster collected most of its 309K+ miles running that stuff. If it was bad oil I'd know it. But I did and do change the oil every 5K miles.

im guilty of that I was running the oild for 10k then chaging it. that's what the dealership told me.

10K miles is pushing it unless you spend a lot of time on the freeway. I've driven 5K miles over a week's time with fresh oil and then draining the oil afterwards and noting the oil still had some amber color to it. I might not have any hesitation in driving the car maybe another 5K miles -- on the highway -- but since my usage doesn't involve 10K mile road trips I change the oil every 5K miles.

Ok ill make a note and get it at the store for this weekend.

Just so you know. This is what I'm talking about:

http://www.swepcolube.com/products/s...e-oil-improver

My Porsche tech buddies tell me this helps quiet engines that are used infrequently but can help with reluctant VarioCam Plus high/low lift hardware, although I grant you that as a cause has not been determined. Doesn't cost much to try it. Shake the bottles good before you dump their contents in the oil filler tube.

chamilun

maybe Raby is reading this and will offer some thoughts

targa996

Petersa9

I had a crazy misfire problem my Indy spent a month trying to fix. After almost a full tear down, leak down, new spark plugs/tubes/coils and some other things they replaced the solenoid gasket for $10 and th misfires are gone. Been good ever since. But my misfires began at cylinder 1, not in the middle on cylinder 5.

Varianti

Looks like mechanically you are fine. Like Ashai wrote next thing I would do replace injector. After that valves and springs but that's expensive.

What about the possibility of a bad ECU? You reported loss of heating in seat and other irregularities. This could be an indication of a bad ECU and/or bad cables. and misfire is just one of the symptoms.

RngTrtl

Also, please stop the red text!

CarlOrton

In addition to the battery, you might consider checking the various ground connections. A week or partial ground will cause all sorts of gremlins to appear. Sorry, I don't have a clue where to start, but just speculating to start with the engine ground(s).

Additionally, does P0302 appear in coincidence with any recent weather changes like a front coming through that dramatically changes the humidity? I've had MANY cases over 45 years where a VERY thin film of corrosion forms between the battery post and cable. Looks great, acts great (usually) but when a change in weather, it insulates the path *just* enough to raise havoc with your systems. Try cleaning the battery posts/cables.

Macster

An injector might be the problem but it doesn't "sound" like an injector problem. However, my recommendation of the use of Techron is a tacit admission there might be an injector involved.

Before I removed the camshaft cover and the cams to replace one or more lifters I'd be sure to eliminate the injector as a source of the problem. I'm not a fan of swapping them around. The less handling aging injectors get the better. I'd be tempted to just replace the suspected injector.

I mean absent some high confidence diagnosis as to what's going on one is facing throwing parts at the behavior.

Bash Hat

Do the other issues (seat heater etc) also happen at the exact same time only when the car is at idle? If so would that points to electrical, battery not putting out enough juice? Possibly a bad alternator not charging properly until you spin it up to 2K rpms or more. Sounds more electrical than mechanical to me.

Medevack1

Ok since the beginning of this post the car has been running fine no codes but again I'm sure is a matter of time before it happens again. As far as the injector it was replaced with a new one last year. And this problem has been you g on for 2+. I made a video I need to k ow how to upload it.

Thank you again for all the help.

Imo000

What's a solenoid gasket?

Is it near the muffler bearing?

Dpazos

I would look towards some type of electrical fault or grounding problem. Check your ground points carefully. I have seem intermitent gremlins like this be something as simple as a corroded wire/terminal on a grounding point. It's time consuming, but you have to be methodical and thorough.

Medevack1