key fob battery
#16
Rennlist Member
Just chiming in to tell you that sometimes the key fob electronic circuit boards can be fixed.
It's not much either since we charge $55.
Also, a full battery will always push the signal further and stronger.
When you change batteries in the remotes there are no negative repercussion to be mindful of.
So before you go thinking about getting new fobs, or having your repaired putting a new battery is the best thing to try.
It's not much either since we charge $55.
Also, a full battery will always push the signal further and stronger.
When you change batteries in the remotes there are no negative repercussion to be mindful of.
So before you go thinking about getting new fobs, or having your repaired putting a new battery is the best thing to try.
#18
Rennlist Member
DBJoe996 went at least two years without key fobs, according to this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...placement.html
#19
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
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Just for the record, key fob stopped communicating with the car....hmmmmm...about five/six years ago. I tried a new battery but it still doesn't work. The battery has been dead in the key fob about 3 years now. Never got around to replacing it because the circuit board is bad. So I just lock/unlock the car with the key, and I know the RFID pill in the key is passive (doesn't require any power). No problems at all. And my valet key works the same way. I'm not worried about the fragile metal tab in the lock mechanism....very gentle with the lock/unlock procedure. Millions of older cars work the same way....key for locking/unlocking manually on the door.
Figure it just is what it is. And if I would stop drinking coffee in the morning at my age, I might undertake what has been suggested on other threads, resoldering the circuit board power connectors. I just can't stop the hands from shaking until about 12 or 1 PM, and then it is beer time so not going to mess around with that either. Then we move into wine and Jeoprady/house hunter shows until bed. LOL
Figure it just is what it is. And if I would stop drinking coffee in the morning at my age, I might undertake what has been suggested on other threads, resoldering the circuit board power connectors. I just can't stop the hands from shaking until about 12 or 1 PM, and then it is beer time so not going to mess around with that either. Then we move into wine and Jeoprady/house hunter shows until bed. LOL
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blacksquid (02-14-2020)
#20
Former Vendor
1-the circuit board and buttons which are coded to the Immobilizer to only open/close enable/disable your alarm system - this part works with the battery
2-the transponder, which is also coded to the Immobilizer and it is the one that allows you to start the car - this one doesn't need power to operate.
That's why DBJoe996 key still let's him use his car after all these years.
#21
Rennlist Member
The Key Head has 2 parts:
1-the circuit board and buttons which are coded to the Immobilizer to only open/close enable/disable your alarm system - this part works with the battery
2-the transponder, which is also coded to the Immobilizer and it is the one that allows you to start the car - this one doesn't need power to operate.
That's why DBJoe996 key still let's him use his car after all these years.
1-the circuit board and buttons which are coded to the Immobilizer to only open/close enable/disable your alarm system - this part works with the battery
2-the transponder, which is also coded to the Immobilizer and it is the one that allows you to start the car - this one doesn't need power to operate.
That's why DBJoe996 key still let's him use his car after all these years.
#22
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 5,803
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Alarm works fine. Just lock it up with the key and go. I have tested it so I know it works the way it is supposed to. Leave up frunk lid, lock car and get a beep for an open zone. Leave up center console, lock car and get a beep for an open zone. Roll down window, lock car and toss in a towel. That sets off the infrared sensors and the alarm goes off.
#23
Rennlist Member
#24
Rennlist Member
because this happens too often.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-car-asap.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ocked-out.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-car-asap.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ocked-out.html
#26
Instructor
Just for the record, key fob stopped communicating with the car....hmmmmm...about five/six years ago. I tried a new battery but it still doesn't work. The battery has been dead in the key fob about 3 years now. Never got around to replacing it because the circuit board is bad. So I just lock/unlock the car with the key, and I know the RFID pill in the key is passive (doesn't require any power). No problems at all. And my valet key works the same way. I'm not worried about the fragile metal tab in the lock mechanism....very gentle with the lock/unlock procedure. Millions of older cars work the same way....key for locking/unlocking manually on the door.
Figure it just is what it is. And if I would stop drinking coffee in the morning at my age, I might undertake what has been suggested on other threads, resoldering the circuit board power connectors. I just can't stop the hands from shaking until about 12 or 1 PM, and then it is beer time so not going to mess around with that either. Then we move into wine and Jeoprady/house hunter shows until bed. LOL
Figure it just is what it is. And if I would stop drinking coffee in the morning at my age, I might undertake what has been suggested on other threads, resoldering the circuit board power connectors. I just can't stop the hands from shaking until about 12 or 1 PM, and then it is beer time so not going to mess around with that either. Then we move into wine and Jeoprady/house hunter shows until bed. LOL
Only took about three minutes to replace the buttons. Then I warmed a few of the solder connections, especially those around the battery holder and installed a new Energizer CR2032 and all has been okay since. I'm very careful not to mistreat or drop the key and I only use light pressure to open the doors and frunk, the latter very infrequently.
#27
Rennlist Member
Not nessarily a big proponent of the fobs. More it is one of the “features” of the car so I try to keep it/them working.
I have successfully reflowed the solder on one and replaced one switch on another. I had one where the blister in the case cracked and held the switch down causing premature battery failure. I bought a used key on eBay and jut replaced my cracked cover. There are rebuilding kits on eBay that have the switches.
I also have an antique Porsche GPS in the 2004tt that while pretty clunky works fine. You just have to keep the tubes fresh.
New 2015 map CDs are available.
Edit
you snooze you lose
Fast beat me to it.
Rsbro
go on eBay and buy a couple of used keys and tak the sealing rings out for yours.
I have successfully reflowed the solder on one and replaced one switch on another. I had one where the blister in the case cracked and held the switch down causing premature battery failure. I bought a used key on eBay and jut replaced my cracked cover. There are rebuilding kits on eBay that have the switches.
I also have an antique Porsche GPS in the 2004tt that while pretty clunky works fine. You just have to keep the tubes fresh.
New 2015 map CDs are available.
Edit
you snooze you lose
Fast beat me to it.
Rsbro
go on eBay and buy a couple of used keys and tak the sealing rings out for yours.
#28
Racer
I have to be brain dead or dexterity challenged. I opened one of the fobs for my 99 Carrera, replaced the battery, and now I cannot get the two halves of the case back together. There is always one edge that won't pop into place...and I don't want to force it. Is there a trick that I am not aware of? Everything appears to line up, but it just won't close. Glad I only did one key. At least I can use the other to manually lock/unlock the car.
UPDATE: The verdict is dexterity-challenged. I finally figured out that the circuit board was not lining up with the two little tabs that hold it in place, so I figured out how to get the damn thing back together. It's been a long day.
UPDATE: The verdict is dexterity-challenged. I finally figured out that the circuit board was not lining up with the two little tabs that hold it in place, so I figured out how to get the damn thing back together. It's been a long day.
Last edited by Einsteiger; 02-23-2018 at 08:21 PM. Reason: found a solution - incredibly so
#30
Racer
The irony is that even with a new battery, this fob still does not work. Trying the other one next.