electrical problems? door window not opening with door
02-27-2017, 02:20 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
electrical problems? door window not opening with door
I had a hit and run involving the right rear wheel fender. The body shop fixed it (didn't replace it - but it looks great). My insurance covered it.
Anyway, I go pick up the car, and I notice that my windows are not rolling down. The switch doesnt even work. The guy looked at the fuse and it was blown. He replaced the fuse and windows work. Great.
Then I notice when I opened the frunk, the interior frunk light was taken off, bulb not in it, and it was not put back. I think they took it apart so when they left frunk open the light wouldnt burn out, which is fine, however they didn't put it back (which I thought was lack of attention to detail. Also in this category, the battery cover was taken off for trickle charging but not put back). So he puts the bulb in and it doesnt work. He takes some took with a light on it, sticks it in either socket and one socket burns the tool's light brighter the other socket less. Guy says both sockets are "positive" which he says is not right. So then keep the car a few more days and fix that.
I go pick up the car, and now, I see that when I open the driver's door, the window comes down (like it should) but goes back up completely before the door closes, thusly it wont let the driver door to close. I have to close the door by having the window down then close the window. So I do the reset trick (hold down till all windows go down, hold for 5 seconds, then up, hold 5 seconds). I open the door again, the window comes down a notch and goes right back up. The passenger door is fine; when it opens, the window comes down a notch but stays a little down allowing door to close before it automatically comes back up.
Long story short, the driver door window comes down as it should when door is opened, but comes right back up before door is closed thus not allowing the door to close.
TL;DR:
Everything was working perfectly before I took the car to the body shop. I get the car back with a blown fuse that didnt allow windows to work. It was replaced. Then interior frunk light didnt work, and both sockets were "positive" which they fix now light works. Now, the driver window comes down as it should when door is opened but immediately goes back up when handle let go, now allowing door to close unless window is down.
Any possibility when they screwed with the wiring for the frunk light it affect the driver window automatic thing? I already tried the reset trick.. didnt work.
So now he's taking the car to the dealer to figure out whats wrong.
Help?
Also, what if he says, X Y Z is screwed up and now needs to be replaced, it's going to cost $$$$.
Isn't he responsible for it? I took the car to him in perfect condition...
Anyway, I go pick up the car, and I notice that my windows are not rolling down. The switch doesnt even work. The guy looked at the fuse and it was blown. He replaced the fuse and windows work. Great.
Then I notice when I opened the frunk, the interior frunk light was taken off, bulb not in it, and it was not put back. I think they took it apart so when they left frunk open the light wouldnt burn out, which is fine, however they didn't put it back (which I thought was lack of attention to detail. Also in this category, the battery cover was taken off for trickle charging but not put back). So he puts the bulb in and it doesnt work. He takes some took with a light on it, sticks it in either socket and one socket burns the tool's light brighter the other socket less. Guy says both sockets are "positive" which he says is not right. So then keep the car a few more days and fix that.
I go pick up the car, and now, I see that when I open the driver's door, the window comes down (like it should) but goes back up completely before the door closes, thusly it wont let the driver door to close. I have to close the door by having the window down then close the window. So I do the reset trick (hold down till all windows go down, hold for 5 seconds, then up, hold 5 seconds). I open the door again, the window comes down a notch and goes right back up. The passenger door is fine; when it opens, the window comes down a notch but stays a little down allowing door to close before it automatically comes back up.
Long story short, the driver door window comes down as it should when door is opened, but comes right back up before door is closed thus not allowing the door to close.
TL;DR:
Everything was working perfectly before I took the car to the body shop. I get the car back with a blown fuse that didnt allow windows to work. It was replaced. Then interior frunk light didnt work, and both sockets were "positive" which they fix now light works. Now, the driver window comes down as it should when door is opened but immediately goes back up when handle let go, now allowing door to close unless window is down.
Any possibility when they screwed with the wiring for the frunk light it affect the driver window automatic thing? I already tried the reset trick.. didnt work.
So now he's taking the car to the dealer to figure out whats wrong.
Help?
Also, what if he says, X Y Z is screwed up and now needs to be replaced, it's going to cost $$$$.
Isn't he responsible for it? I took the car to him in perfect condition...
02-27-2017, 02:36 PM
#2
Racer
Sounds like the regulator needs replacing. Had the same issue and could be a fluke it happened after the repair, but doubtful they had anything to do with it. It's a common problem. Cheaper and worth checking are the microswitches but your issue points to the regulator IMHO.
02-27-2017, 02:42 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 5,800
Likes: 0
Received 1,085 Likes
on
697 Posts
You need to describe what they did to "fix" the positive power to both terminals at the trunk light. Fuse C3 covers the central alarm system, power windows and interior lights - all things that need 12V power even when the car is not running. If the fuse was blown, somehow things got hooked up wrong. How in the world did having the right rear fender repaired by a body shop result in these problems? Did they hook the trickle charger up wrong? It is possible that since the fuse was blown, one of the microswitches on the door handle got fried. The first thing I would do is disconnect the battery negative terminal, wait 15 minutes and reconnect to do a total system reset.
02-27-2017, 09:01 PM
#4
Your window problem is due to a micro switch in the door latch, or a problem with the latching mechanism. The switch itself is not available from Porsche so you have to replace the whole latch mechanism for around $140 if you shop around online. I had the same problem and replaced mine a year or so ago.
There are three switches that work the drop-down magic. One is in the interior handle. One is in the exterior handle. The third is in the latch.
If the window drops when you lift either the inner or outer handles, those switches are fine. If the window drops and then returns when you release the handle with the door open, it's the latch. That switch isn't detecting that the door is still open.
With mine, I was able to stick my finger into the receiver part of the latch and the window would drop again. I'm not sure if that indicates that it was the switch or the mechanism, but in either case, replacing the latch assembly fixed the issue.
A few people have bought micro switches online for a dollar or two and then hacked them to work in the latch rather than replacing the whole latch. I replaced the whole latch as I figure it's a 16 year old part that is essential and is used frequently. There are some good DIY write-ups available and it's not too difficult.
Could it be a coincidence that this happened while they were working on something else? It could be. Ironically, mine failed while I was replacing the passenger door micro switch.
There are three switches that work the drop-down magic. One is in the interior handle. One is in the exterior handle. The third is in the latch.
If the window drops when you lift either the inner or outer handles, those switches are fine. If the window drops and then returns when you release the handle with the door open, it's the latch. That switch isn't detecting that the door is still open.
With mine, I was able to stick my finger into the receiver part of the latch and the window would drop again. I'm not sure if that indicates that it was the switch or the mechanism, but in either case, replacing the latch assembly fixed the issue.
A few people have bought micro switches online for a dollar or two and then hacked them to work in the latch rather than replacing the whole latch. I replaced the whole latch as I figure it's a 16 year old part that is essential and is used frequently. There are some good DIY write-ups available and it's not too difficult.
Could it be a coincidence that this happened while they were working on something else? It could be. Ironically, mine failed while I was replacing the passenger door micro switch.
Last edited by wyovino; 02-27-2017 at 10:25 PM.