Who is the (2nd) immediate suspect?
#1
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Who is the (2nd) immediate suspect?
Hello guys.
2002 C2 with 40k, and I had “clunks” when going over road bumps.
Since I’m familiar with the issue from my previous cars (Boxsters) I went ahead and replaced the lower control arms (part 17 in the diagram) with brand new Meyle parts.
So although the clunk noise is less noticeable, it is still there on the passenger side.
So after replacing part 17, which part can be the cause of the noise?
Thanks in advance.
Meir.
2002 C2 with 40k, and I had “clunks” when going over road bumps.
Since I’m familiar with the issue from my previous cars (Boxsters) I went ahead and replaced the lower control arms (part 17 in the diagram) with brand new Meyle parts.
So although the clunk noise is less noticeable, it is still there on the passenger side.
So after replacing part 17, which part can be the cause of the noise?
Thanks in advance.
Meir.
#4
My 996 had a very subtle rattle / clunk over small bumps that I could feel through the steering wheel, but could not hear (I don't think anyway, your mind plays tricks on you when you're paranoid about car problems =D ). My indy cleared everything as all good ... until it dawned on me it was barely noticeable until the car was warm after spirited driving.
If this applies to you, the inner tie rods may be the culprit.
Basically, the high heat from the rads cooks the inner tie rod boots, and then they dry out and rattle. I ended up replacing the inner tie rods, outer tie rods, control arms and wishbones all at once, but the inner rods had slight movement in the rubber when fondled.
If this applies to you, the inner tie rods may be the culprit.
Basically, the high heat from the rads cooks the inner tie rod boots, and then they dry out and rattle. I ended up replacing the inner tie rods, outer tie rods, control arms and wishbones all at once, but the inner rods had slight movement in the rubber when fondled.
#5
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#6
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That was supposed to be another thread, but since you brought it up, I did the control arms and the mounts in the same day.
Now I have more vibration in the cabin then before the job
.
Edit: just engine mounts not trans.
Now I have more vibration in the cabin then before the job
.
Edit: just engine mounts not trans.
#7
Did you go for OEM engine mounts? I replaced my worn OE ones with the Rein (OEM replacement) mounts on Monday, and the whole car behaves better - less "busy" ride (less stuff in the rear moving around over bumps), much smoother shifting, etc.
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#8
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#10
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#11
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I would just go ahead and replace them, very easy and (for a Porsche) cheap to do. They are 15 years old, and rubber wears out. I did mine, and the clunking went away.
#12
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#13
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I hate to keep open treads, so here is the update and the closure.
Took me some time as i hurt my right hand pretty bad , and only couple of weeks ago was able to work on the car again.
As suggested by ditto and boomvang, I went ahead and ordered the drop links.
Got to the car to install them and that’s what I saw.
The right side drop link was loose on the top nut.
new drop links, problem solved, car feels like new.
Solved also the vibration issue that was probably caused by the GT3 mufflers I was testing on my car.
Still have slight vibration, so I’m definitely going to replace the transmission mount at some point.
Took me some time as i hurt my right hand pretty bad , and only couple of weeks ago was able to work on the car again.
As suggested by ditto and boomvang, I went ahead and ordered the drop links.
Got to the car to install them and that’s what I saw.
The right side drop link was loose on the top nut.
new drop links, problem solved, car feels like new.
Solved also the vibration issue that was probably caused by the GT3 mufflers I was testing on my car.
Still have slight vibration, so I’m definitely going to replace the transmission mount at some point.
Last edited by meirschwartz; 04-11-2017 at 02:45 PM.
#14
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#15
Instructor
That would do it! Easy fix, good job.