The digging out from my money shift begins.
01-01-2017, 02:06 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I paid $10K for the crashed car. I already have a side business parting out E36 M3s, so I already have a system in place. The donor car has lots of track parts including GT3 Euro seats so lots of money to be made back (although I may end up keeping the seats for my car depending on how the other stuff sells).
01-03-2017, 12:41 AM
#18
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
wheeled tanks -by Bill Gates?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C-jleVMORI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C-jleVMORI
So sez;
http://www.military-today.com/artillery/stryker_mgs.htm
http://military.wikia.com/wiki/M1128_Stryker_MGS
http://www.defenseindustrydaily.com/...ehicles-05045/
http://www.gdls.com/products/stryker...ryker-MGS.html << These guys designed and built them. No where are they referred to as a 'tank'.
01-03-2017, 12:42 AM
#19
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I paid $10K for the crashed car. I already have a side business parting out E36 M3s, so I already have a system in place. The donor car has lots of track parts including GT3 Euro seats so lots of money to be made back (although I may end up keeping the seats for my car depending on how the other stuff sells).
Keep updates coming as you make milestones.
01-03-2017, 09:52 AM
#21
Former Vendor
help us Jake, you're our only hope
All my engines have used the LN Engineering low temp thermostat since we developed it, back in 2008. We avoid cylinder and rod failure by not using OEM components for these tasks. All of my engines get LN Nickies cylinders, and at minimum they receive ARP rod bolts.
Yes, coupled to non- automated assembly. Here the same person will pull the engine from a car, tear that engine down, then complete 100% of the work associated with assembling that engine, to include dynamic balancing of the components. He'll even reinstall it, and start it up for the first time. This removes the variables that other builders, and the factory leave on the table.
What people need is an assembly guide, put together in a step by step format, in chronological order. What **I** do not need is something published that will be nothing but a pain in the *** to deal with. I also don't need off- hand comments from smart asses because the things that I state defy conventional wisdom, or what is shared on forums. All that will do is **** me off, and I'll retire.
Those are the things that will cause me trouble. If this was 25 years ago, and every smart *** in the room couldn'tt post some random interjection on a forum, things would be different.
"How to" will be covered in great detail. What won't be included are chapters on "why" or pages and pages of my opinions. Its an engine build guide that will be filled with tons of assembly tricks. It won't tell you how we build our engines, but it will tell you how you should assemble yours. It certainly won't make me more of a "fear monger" than I already am in the eyes of people on these forums who generally, can't handle the truth.
The reason I haven't finished it has been because I kind of dread the fallout from releasing it. I don't care for notoriety, or being in a spotlight. I build engines, and why we are so successful at this is because we don't hype it up, don't market what we do, and we don't live in a fantasy world of fake image, and race cars like the majority of the Porsche industry. At the end of the day I am a guy with dirty hands, and busted knuckles, not an author.
One thing I'm curious about in the rebuild process is bank2 temp management. Do you focus on using low temp thermostat, 3rd radiator, better internals to reduce the chance of cylinder/rod failure?
So far I've read about conn rods/bolts, cylinder lining, pistons, solution for the ims bearing. Outside of that you have the structural problem on inadequate bank2 cooling design. Do the upgraded parts simply stand up to the abuse, is it the blend of better cooling in aggregate (3rd rad. + LTT) coupled with the better internals that allows your engines to hold up?
About the book:
Disagree about what's needed in terms of an M96 book. The hours of dedicated work on this engine should be filled with op-ed from experience. Otherwise, why bother, why publish?
Disagree about what's needed in terms of an M96 book. The hours of dedicated work on this engine should be filled with op-ed from experience. Otherwise, why bother, why publish?
Like has been said, I would pay premium for a less censored, and more secret filled tome. That is, if you really aren't motivated by money, why not let it all hang out?
The value of a 'how-to' is directly related to the authors intellectual property. You have vast IP in this area(blatant suck-up, sorry). Not writing the real ins and outs is doing a disservice to the marque.
The reason I haven't finished it has been because I kind of dread the fallout from releasing it. I don't care for notoriety, or being in a spotlight. I build engines, and why we are so successful at this is because we don't hype it up, don't market what we do, and we don't live in a fantasy world of fake image, and race cars like the majority of the Porsche industry. At the end of the day I am a guy with dirty hands, and busted knuckles, not an author.
01-03-2017, 10:44 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
For the third bolt on the compressor, it became very easy once I read the tip that I should remove the throttle body, and the first plenum for the intake. Once you do that, you can put you left had back that way to find the bolt, and lower the socket/swivel/extensions down with your right hand. All the pictures I saw, never showed where the bolt actually is, so I took one (below). You can get to either from going through the intake, or above the compressor (as seen in the picture).
I used a standard height 13mm socket, 3/8 swivel, extension and ratchet.
01-03-2017, 10:49 AM
#23
01-03-2017, 12:05 PM
#24
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
"How to" will be covered in great detail. What won't be included are chapters on "why" or pages and pages of my opinions. Its an engine build guide that will be filled with tons of assembly tricks. It won't tell you how we build our engines, but it will tell you how you should assemble yours. It certainly won't make me more of a "fear monger" than I already am in the eyes of people on these forums who generally, can't handle the truth.
01-03-2017, 12:58 PM
#25
Drifting
Moderators AWOL
See below how much the unmoderated ,gratuitous nasty comments cost the Rennlist community ?
Imagine if instead the nasty comments were deleted by the Moderator. We would have accumulated much more knowledge.Instead we get a very understandable response to give only a portion of what would otherwise be generously offered.
If the Moderators decline to intervene, it is left to the rest of us to drown out the spiteful commentary.
Thanks for publishing anyway Jake.There must be a silent (& spineless?) majority who appreciate your insights & Ferret photos.
Imagine if instead the nasty comments were deleted by the Moderator. We would have accumulated much more knowledge.Instead we get a very understandable response to give only a portion of what would otherwise be generously offered.
If the Moderators decline to intervene, it is left to the rest of us to drown out the spiteful commentary.
All my engines have used the LN Engineering low temp thermostat since we developed it, back in 2008. We avoid cylinder and rod failure by not using OEM components for these tasks. All of my engines get LN Nickies cylinders, and at minimum they receive ARP rod bolts.
Yes, coupled to non- automated assembly. Here the same person will pull the engine from a car, tear that engine down, then complete 100% of the work associated with assembling that engine, to include dynamic balancing of the components. He'll even reinstall it, and start it up for the first time. This removes the variables that other builders, and the factory leave on the table.
What people need is an assembly guide, put together in a step by step format, in chronological order. What **I** do not need is something published that will be nothing but a pain in the *** to deal with. I also don't need off- hand comments from smart asses because the things that I state defy conventional wisdom, or what is shared on forums. All that will do is **** me off, and I'll retire.
Those are the things that will cause me trouble. If this was 25 years ago, and every smart *** in the room couldn'tt post some random interjection on a forum, things would be different.
"How to" will be covered in great detail. What won't be included are chapters on "why" or pages and pages of my opinions. Its an engine build guide that will be filled with tons of assembly tricks. It won't tell you how we build our engines, but it will tell you how you should assemble yours. It certainly won't make me more of a "fear monger" than I already am in the eyes of people on these forums who generally, can't handle the truth.
The reason I haven't finished it has been because I kind of dread the fallout from releasing it. I don't care for notoriety, or being in a spotlight. I build engines, and why we are so successful at this is because we don't hype it up, don't market what we do, and we don't live in a fantasy world of fake image, and race cars like the majority of the Porsche industry. At the end of the day I am a guy with dirty hands, and busted knuckles, not an author.
Yes, coupled to non- automated assembly. Here the same person will pull the engine from a car, tear that engine down, then complete 100% of the work associated with assembling that engine, to include dynamic balancing of the components. He'll even reinstall it, and start it up for the first time. This removes the variables that other builders, and the factory leave on the table.
What people need is an assembly guide, put together in a step by step format, in chronological order. What **I** do not need is something published that will be nothing but a pain in the *** to deal with. I also don't need off- hand comments from smart asses because the things that I state defy conventional wisdom, or what is shared on forums. All that will do is **** me off, and I'll retire.
Those are the things that will cause me trouble. If this was 25 years ago, and every smart *** in the room couldn'tt post some random interjection on a forum, things would be different.
"How to" will be covered in great detail. What won't be included are chapters on "why" or pages and pages of my opinions. Its an engine build guide that will be filled with tons of assembly tricks. It won't tell you how we build our engines, but it will tell you how you should assemble yours. It certainly won't make me more of a "fear monger" than I already am in the eyes of people on these forums who generally, can't handle the truth.
The reason I haven't finished it has been because I kind of dread the fallout from releasing it. I don't care for notoriety, or being in a spotlight. I build engines, and why we are so successful at this is because we don't hype it up, don't market what we do, and we don't live in a fantasy world of fake image, and race cars like the majority of the Porsche industry. At the end of the day I am a guy with dirty hands, and busted knuckles, not an author.
01-03-2017, 06:04 PM
#26
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
See below how much the unmoderated ,gratuitous nasty comments cost the Rennlist community ?
Imagine if instead the nasty comments were deleted by the Moderator. We would have accumulated much more knowledge.Instead we get a very understandable response to give only a portion of what would otherwise be generously offered.
If the Moderators decline to intervene, it is left to the rest of us to drown out the spiteful commentary.
Imagine if instead the nasty comments were deleted by the Moderator. We would have accumulated much more knowledge.Instead we get a very understandable response to give only a portion of what would otherwise be generously offered.
If the Moderators decline to intervene, it is left to the rest of us to drown out the spiteful commentary.
OTOH, when you sign your name to a published book/paper, you stick it out there, and let people roll over it, stick a fork in it, and otherwise attack, ridicule, and belittle. It's the nature of the game, and I still say that someone who professes to 'not care' seems to want to take his ball and go home at the first sign of disagreement. Even nonsensical disagreement where a stout 'go ahead, do whatever you want' would be more warranted. i.e. if someone decides to put the second compression ring on upside down because they consider the pressure on the ring will be better with the groove in that position, so be it. Jake doesn't have to defend putting the ring on the right way.
The internetz and this forum are an equal oppty place. Equal only in access, not equal in results. It's up to us to decide based on content. Having a mod do this for us is not something I would agree with. Mostly because sooner rather than later - asshattery will out. BTW, that's what the 'ignore' function does, should one want to limit their viewing of my op-ed blather.
01-11-2017, 08:53 AM
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
This week's update.
I spent time separating the trans and tearing down the old motor, of course labeling everything.
Top Tip - got to the Dollar Store for the "Ziploc" bags. They have lots of sizes, up to 2 Gallon, so you can keep complete components with all mounting hardware all in one bag. Also keeps power steering fluid from getting everywhere. That pump just keeps leaking fluid.
Got everything off except for the heads. That will be one night this week, or this weekend. No issues pulling anything, and only broke one header bolt.
I'm this deep, and still have not seen any carnage (other than the connecting rod pieces that were in my oil pan). Looking at the valves (from what I see) none of the look bent (although I am sure they need to be)
What amazes me is how light the block is. I don't have an engine stand at my garage, so it is up on a moving cart with a wood base. The engine actually moves around with very little force. It seems like two people could easily pick it up. Maybe I'll see if my wife wants to give me a hand.
I plan on holding onto most of these parts since I know they were working (and some of them were new), until the new motor is in and running with no issues. Once that is confirmed, I'll start selling them, but if you need anything, let me know.
Onto the pics.
Apparently someone left me some snacks in the bell housing. Amazing how rodents can get places.
I spent time separating the trans and tearing down the old motor, of course labeling everything.
Top Tip - got to the Dollar Store for the "Ziploc" bags. They have lots of sizes, up to 2 Gallon, so you can keep complete components with all mounting hardware all in one bag. Also keeps power steering fluid from getting everywhere. That pump just keeps leaking fluid.
Got everything off except for the heads. That will be one night this week, or this weekend. No issues pulling anything, and only broke one header bolt.
I'm this deep, and still have not seen any carnage (other than the connecting rod pieces that were in my oil pan). Looking at the valves (from what I see) none of the look bent (although I am sure they need to be)
What amazes me is how light the block is. I don't have an engine stand at my garage, so it is up on a moving cart with a wood base. The engine actually moves around with very little force. It seems like two people could easily pick it up. Maybe I'll see if my wife wants to give me a hand.
I plan on holding onto most of these parts since I know they were working (and some of them were new), until the new motor is in and running with no issues. Once that is confirmed, I'll start selling them, but if you need anything, let me know.
Onto the pics.
Apparently someone left me some snacks in the bell housing. Amazing how rodents can get places.
01-16-2017, 12:10 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
In this week's update, I got the heads off. Amazingly, they both look fine. Valves looks good, cams look good, the timing was actually still correct.
The cylinder walls also look good. You would not know there was an issue, until you turn it over by hand. The outer pistons move with no issue, while the two middle pistons just sit there. So now I have a 4 cylinder.
I'll crack the case this week, just for fun, and then it is on to pulling the motor from the donor car.
The cylinder walls also look good. You would not know there was an issue, until you turn it over by hand. The outer pistons move with no issue, while the two middle pistons just sit there. So now I have a 4 cylinder.
I'll crack the case this week, just for fun, and then it is on to pulling the motor from the donor car.
