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The wear pads will now begin to wear at a faster rate. Once the chains have began to wear grooves into the material, the softer the layers below the dermis become. The deeper and deeper the wear occurs, the faster it will progress.
Oh yeah looks like my plastic bits. Mine even had pieces of a busted spark plug tube the previous owner left inside. Get ready to do some Cam chain tension pads, also split the case in half and inspect or replace the IMS chain tensioner paddle. Better drop the old oil pan to see if more pieces are stuck in there or in the pick up screen.
The orange bits are tensioner pad parts or chain rail bits and the black stuff is either one of the IMS chain rail or the paddle.
Device2,
Very interesting, thanks for sharing that info... Did you get a CEL regarding the engine timing issue or based on the black pieces in the oil that you decided to replace those chain-tensioner Pads? Does the engine need to come out in order to replace these Pads? Thanks and Cheers,
Just to add some further information to this thread . . .
Back in May I installed an FVD Motorsports Oil Pan. When I dropped the original pan, here is what I found:
Of course I was hoping to find nothing, but I have seen photos plenty worse than this.
In June my son and I took a road trip in the car. Hit the Tail of the Dragon and Cherohala Skyway. Then south to Florida for Wakulla Springs; the U of F bat house; family, friends, food, and beach at Tierra Verde; more friends and family in Avon Park and Alva; and an airboat ride in the Everglades. Finished off with a visit to my sister on the Outer Banks. All in all, 3200 miles with no problems.
For 4th of July week, my wife and I hauled the car to her parents' home outside of Rockford, IL. I spent July 3 driving Blackhawk Farms, then July 7-9 driving Road America. Northwoods Shelby Club allowed ride-alongs at Road America, so I got to take Susan out for a few laps.
I'm scheduled for three days at Summit Point later this month. So, I'm driving the car. Maybe it will keep on going? Maybe one day I'll be researching an LS installation.
Here's another update. I took the car to Watkins Glen in June for a three-day DE. After my first run session Friday morning my check engine light came on. I hooked up my Durametric and it told me a camshaft was out of alignment (I forget the specific code). Durametric also showed that the left camshaft was off by 18 degrees! I guess this was the car giving me a nice warning, rather than just imploding. Though I wish this happened on Sunday rather than Friday! So, the car went on my trailer, and a couple of weeks after getting the car home I took it to Roger Bratter at Auto Therapy in Gaithersburg, MD, for some extensive work. Right now the innards are with Charles Navarro for Nickies with a bump to 3.8 liters. Add in the IMS Solution, Carillo connecting rods, an IPD intake plenum, new tensioners, etc. Should be a pretty sweet ride and ready for the track when I get the car back. Of course, I won't have any money left to pay for track fees, brake pads, tires, and all.
So, with just over 100K miles and a number of track days on the car, I guess this was coming.
Sure is quite a bit of debris. As another member suggests, drop the pan and inspect how bad it is. If it is the chain tensioner, then the engine has to be dropped to change it.
Yeah, rebuilds for Porsches are inevitable. In 2005, I bought an ‘88 3.2 Carrera with 117k miles. It had received a top-end rebuild at 90k miles. Those air-cooled cars were prone to needing valve guides for one reason or another. Not common, but not uncommon either. This car is still going strong at over 180k miles.
Simply put, these cars are designed with a balance of performance and reliability. Design for too much reliability on the extreme end and you end up with a tractor-trailer engine. Design for too much performance and you end up with a top fuel dragster. One lasts a million miles and other lasts 0.1893 miles.
With all else being equal in the world of cars, though, Porsches seem to have the best balance among reliability and performance when you add in other factors, both tangible and intangible.
I suspect these cars are designed for about 100k miles. Porsches are for rich people that can afford to purchase and maintain them and although we see many cases where folks hang onto these cars for decades and accumulate hundreds of thousands of miles, they usually do so because they are maintained properly. I don’t think it’s just fluid changes. If something looks suspect, the caregiver of such a fine vehicle will spring to replace it.
Lasting 100k miles isn’t a bad thing. How many people even hold onto cars that long? Most used cars have 2, 3, 4 owners, representing good useful lifetimes per owner, especially for Porsche owners who feel like they just acquired a gem of car that might look “new,” even if it’s going on 10 years old.
To the OP: you’ll end up with a refreshed car that is probably going to be better and stronger than when new. Another one bites the dust and will be reborn with another 100k to go.
12-14-2016, 01:46 PM
