Ahsai

Just to let you guys know in case someone is searching. The latest (2002) spec is 19ftlb + 120 degrees (not 90 degrees, which was the older spec).

Slakker

Meaning torque to 19ft and then tighten another 120 degrees?

Ahsai

Yup. Those are stretched-to-yield one-time-use bolts.

relinuca

For removal of doubt, Ashai's posting means DO NOT reuse the old bolts...get new ones and properly torque.

relinuca

relinuca

Ahsai...sorry.

nofun

I'd be interested to know what 120 degree past 19 ft lbs is in ft lbs. It sure felt like a lot.

Ahsai

No worries. It doesn't hurt to be clearer.

Ahsai

I just did it and I won't be surprised if it's 150ftlb or higher. Felt like 200ftlb haha

Schnell Gelb

Seems like a good idea to chase,clean & dry these threads but the size is unusual M10x1.0 -that is very fine and not the more common 1.5 fine thread.Just finding a USA-made bottoming chase/plug tap is a challenge.
I am a wimp so do the xxx degrees in 2 stages & use a breaker bar not a torque wrench for this final stage. With the M96 I got even more paranoid and used a Brownline torque-angle wrench (because the Snap-On ones were unreliable according to Internet legend !). Then I started researching light oiling of the bolt threads vs. no oil ....The simplest tasks on this engine can take hours of research and expense ! But I am sure lots of people do just fine slapping them together. The guys at ARP are getting to know me really well !
While you are hunting this size - you may need some M10 x1.0 long bolts to do the RMS with your home-made PVC coupling tool.

Ahsai

I checked my threads are very clean and shiny. I just use a dab of anti-seize on the new bolts.

Wow, I can't imagine how you crank those bolts 120 degree using only the (18"?) Browline torque-angle wrench! More power to you! 90 degree is easy but the extra 30 degree is exponentially more grunt.

01slvr911

Just to keep all the updated torque specs in one place, Can anyone confirm the following from the most updated manual:

Are the pressure plate values 17 ft lbs? with no additional degree turning?

Bell housing Bolts 85 ft lbs for all the standard 16mm nuts

.... and 45 ft lbs for the triple square and the nut/bolt


AOS 7.5 ft lbs

Clutch slave 7.5 ft lbs

Manual Transmission Mount bolts (all 6 against the body) 48 Ft Lbs

Manual Transmission mount through the rubber mount, nut and bolt 48 Ft lbs

I'm also replacing my split case micro-encapsulated bolts along the engine (4 i believe) I can't seem to find that torque spec anywhere, any insight would be awesome.

cds72911

My advice: buy the torque spec book from theknowledgegruppe.

http://www.theknowledgegruppe.com/in...96-automobile/

It is worth every penny you pay for it to have all (most) torques specs in one handy reference. It'll save you a lot of hunting, digging, and trusting random internet posts.

01slvr911

I'm just trying to compile a DIY with pictures of doing IMS, RMS, Clutch Etc. So having of all specific torques required would let my guide potentially be a one trick pony, If anyone who has the book could share the wealth i'm sure it would benefit others to have all of the specifics involved with doing this overhaul themselves.

Coopduc

Ahsai

I assume you mean the flywheel bolts. Use a regular torque wrench to get to 19 ftlb, then mark the bolt (0 degree and 120 degree) and use a breaker bar to angle torque it.