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996 flywheel bolt torque specs

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Old 01-26-2018, 05:50 PM
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Coopduc
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Thanks Ahsai. That device do you recommend to measure the angle?
Old 01-26-2018, 05:56 PM
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Ahsai
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Originally Posted by Coopduc
Thanks Ahsai. That device do you recommend to measure the angle?
For the flywheel bolts, you don't need 0.01 degree precision so I just mark between the bolt and the flywheel as the initial starting point, then add a 120 degree mark on each bolt so you can visually check which bolt has reached its final 120 degrees. This trick is fool proof so even if you get interrupted in the middle of angle torquing you can resume and continue with where you left off.
Old 01-26-2018, 06:00 PM
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01slvr911
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heres a great cheat sheet, you can cut it and use painter tape to get the right 120 degree alignment.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...egreeWheel.jpg
Old 01-26-2018, 06:02 PM
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Coopduc
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Is something like this recommended? I’m wondering because it’s only rated to 147 ftlbs but you never really know if you exceed that when turning to an angle. Or do you?

Old 01-26-2018, 06:07 PM
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01slvr911
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For the initial torque of 19 ft lbs tightened in a star pattern, that would be fine. but for the 120 degree, your best bet would be a breaker bar and the chart above.
Old 01-26-2018, 06:11 PM
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cds72911
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I'm with Ashai - use a torque wrench to get initial torque, and then use a Sharpie marker to make a reference mark on both the bolt and the flywheel. Then complete the angle torque with a breaker bar. Obviously, you'll need the flywheel locked to do this. Easily accomplished with a short length of flat steel bar with two holes in it, one end bolted to the bell housing and the other to a hole in the edge of the flywheel (where the pressure plate will be mounted later). I've used the same shop made tool on all kinds of cars for decades. Just use some of your old bolts that you were going to discard anyway.
Old 01-26-2018, 06:30 PM
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01slvr911
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Originally Posted by 01slvr911
Just to keep all the updated torque specs in one place, Can anyone confirm the following from the most updated manual:

Are the pressure plate values 17 ft lbs? with no additional degree turning?

Bell housing Bolts 85 ft lbs for all the standard 16mm nuts

.... and 45 ft lbs for the triple square and the nut/bolt


AOS 7.5 ft lbs

Clutch slave 7.5 ft lbs

Manual Transmission Mount bolts (all 6 against the body) 48 Ft Lbs

Manual Transmission mount through the rubber mount, nut and bolt 48 Ft lbs

I'm also replacing my split case micro-encapsulated bolts along the engine (4 i believe) I can't seem to find that torque spec anywhere, any insight would be awesome.

Ahsai do you have the split case bolt torque?
Old 01-26-2018, 07:09 PM
  #23  
Ahsai
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Originally Posted by Coopduc


Is something like this recommended? I’m wondering because it’s only rated to 147 ftlbs but you never really know if you exceed that when turning to an angle. Or do you?

When turning angle, torque is irrelevant so you don't need to measure it.
That paper dial looks nice but I doubt you have enough space there to use it unless it's 2" in diameter or less.

Originally Posted by 01slvr911
Ahsai do you have the split case bolt torque?
The ones that are along the case edge of the RMS?
Old 01-26-2018, 07:30 PM
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01slvr911
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Yea, there's 2 inside, above and below the RMS, one under the bell housing, and one above the bell housing.
Old 01-26-2018, 08:08 PM
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i have had a snap on torque angle gauge for 15 years or more......................i have used a magic marker more
Old 01-26-2018, 08:57 PM
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cds72911
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My 2 cents is still to buy the book and have the torque specs you need in one place. I like to support the vendors that make a lot of this DIY accessible to the average shade tree.

That being said... you seem intent on doing it by crowdsourcing. Are these two of the twenty-five m6x35 bolts that join the crankcase halves? If so, according to the spec book I listed above, they are 13 Nm (10 ft-lb).

Last edited by cds72911; 01-26-2018 at 09:37 PM.
Old 01-26-2018, 10:38 PM
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01slvr911
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Originally Posted by cds72911
My 2 cents is still to buy the book and have the torque specs you need in one place. I like to support the vendors that make a lot of this DIY accessible to the average shade tree.

That being said... you seem intent on doing it by crowdsourcing. Are these two of the twenty-five m6x35 bolts that join the crankcase halves? If so, according to the spec book I listed above, they are 13 Nm (10 ft-lb).
Much appreciated info, as I said before; just trying to collect all information involved in doing a write up so save the next guy the headache of hunting around for certain info.

Thanks again!
Old 01-28-2018, 08:37 PM
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mayday1
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Originally Posted by cds72911
I'm with Ashai - use a torque wrench to get initial torque, and then use a Sharpie marker to make a reference mark on both the bolt and the flywheel. Then complete the angle torque with a breaker bar. Obviously, you'll need the flywheel locked to do this. Easily accomplished with a short length of flat steel bar with two holes in it, one end bolted to the bell housing and the other to a hole in the edge of the flywheel (where the pressure plate will be mounted later). I've used the same shop made tool on all kinds of cars for decades. Just use some of your old bolts that you were going to discard anyway.
I did essentially the same thing. I used a chain to lock the flywheel when torquing to 120degrees with a 2' breaker bar, and used a permanent marker to mark the 120 degree.

T marks the starting position after torquing to 19ftlbs.
Old 01-29-2018, 04:05 PM
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01slvr911
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nicely done!
Old 11-07-2018, 05:47 PM
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islaTurbine
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Use anti-seize or Loctite on the flywheels bolts?


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