Andryuha

I've been lurking her for quite some time as I have been looking to purchase a 996. I do not have $40-50k to spend on a turbo. I've recently found a 2000 C4 with 80k miles that has some "engine noise" according to the seller. He also does not recommend driving the car. The upside is that the car actually looks great and I can get it for around $10k. I am an avid "shade tree" mechanic, but I have never worked on a Porsche. Is a car like this worth my time? Is there anything specific that I should inspect on it? My understanding is that the noise could be caused by anything, ranging from IMS to sticky lifter to alternator.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: It's a C4 (non-S)

jleblanc

The C4S didn't exist until 2002. Maybe it's a C4?

Either way, if you're looking at a rebuild, you're already more than it would cost to buy a car that doesn't have problems. You can get a decent C2/C4 for $20k, and a decent C4S for $30k.

If the rest of the car is truly pristine, and it's in a color that you LOVE and can't find elsewhere, then you might think about it. But otherwise... keep looking.

Andryuha

I should have also mentioned that the seller is pretty negotiable, so I may be able to get the price even lower.

jleblanc

If you want a project because you want to learn about working on 911s and you have the space/time to do it, it could be a fun car. if you're interested in the cheapest way to a good car that you can drive without worries... buy one that needs less work.

Either way, it's probably worth looking at to determine exactly what kind of noise it is, and what the problem might be. Maybe it's a quick fix... but probably not

FRUNKenstein

If it needs a rebuild, it's worth $6,000 tops. There are many things that could be wrong with it that could require a rebuild. And a few things that wouldn't. Assuming you don't mind the thought of buying a project car, then offer $6,000 and assume the worst for the engine. Personally, I'd spend $16,000 or $17,000 and buy a nice condition Mk I car and skip the project car headaches. In the end, the $17,000 one will be cheaper as you'll put $12,000+ into a rebuild.

Slakker

There are quite a few threads you can search on rebuilds but this is not a standard engine. The M96 has a lot of quirks and uniqueness. It's not a good engine to save money by rebuilding yourself (as already stated.).

But there are some really good reasons to buy a roller. If you are wanting to upgrade the engine a roller makes perfect sense. I paid 8k for my '00 C4 roller which seems to be around market value. It's sitting in GA waiting it's turn for an FSI Track Performer Plus 3.8l engine.

The other reason is because you love these cars and want to learn how to rebuild one. In which case I would highly recommend taking a rebuild class prior to starting the project. I know the Knowledge Gruppe offers them but I don't know of any others.

Good of luck and let us know how it turns out.

Andryuha

Talked to the seller some more. He has some extensive maintenance records and the heads were "re-done" 10k miles ago. He suspects that the noise is either due to the IMS or tensioner.

Schnell Gelb

If the engine would fail the Pre-Qualification Test for LN IMSB (search!)it is a Roller.
If you find ferrous debris in the pan or filter = Roller
If no debris ,find an Indie who is competent(ask for referrals here) and willing to do an invasive PPI to find the probably cause of the noise.
Meanwhile ,research the cost of fitting either known to be good used engine or pro rebuilt.
A diy rebuild is not smart unless you are qualified and equipped. Ask here what standards and equipment are required. Think aircraft/FAA standards not Chevy.

charlieaf92

Someone willing to knock 8-9k off the price because of an 'engine noise' screams red flag to me. Why wouldn't the owner take it to a mechanic and have it diagnosed? He is assuming the worst, and I'd say you should too. Wishful thinking says its something you can fix yourself for maybe a few grand in parts - but the worst case scenario is pretty bad and sounds fairly likely given his willingness to part with it.

If there is a qualified mechanic in the area I would have it trailered/towed there and at least have them remove the oil sump cover and inspect for debris. Maybe there are some other things they can check as well. But ultimately you've got to make the call as to whether or not the juice is worth the squeeze. Take a look at a similar car that is in drivable condition and see what they're going for.

Schnell Gelb

The smart guys tell us "they are all 20K+ cars- pay now or pay later" Your only choice is when you pay ,not if. If you aren't comfortable with that .......
If you want the Porsche experience for less, consider a Boxster or a sleeper -the rare 968

gnat

As others have said, find one in better condition. Do what you can to make sure your first experience is a good one so you can determine if you like them or not. This one could be something simple or it could be a cornucopia of pain and misery and there is no sense to get into something like that until you A) know you love the cars and B) know more about them.

Macster

Just my 2 cents' worth but if the engine is making noise to the point the seller recommends against driving the car you should treat the car as a "roller" and not pay any more for it that what rollers are going for.

My roller price info is out of date but I suspect it way less than $10,000. (Last time I check Boxster rollers were going for around $3K.)

The engine could be toast and you can't know if the transmission/running gear is any good nor any of the other subsystems either. The car could be two wheels into the salvage yard already.

You should be able to find a running and issue free 996 though it will cost you more than $10K but less than the $40K or $50K you don't have for a Turbo.