Coolant in exhaust
#16
I wont try this unless someone who knows tells me it is safe, but I was thinking about just running open for about 1min. The steam/coolant usually starts right away, that would narrow it down to the correct cylinder, but I guess that still wont tell me exactly what the damage is.
#17
Rennlist Member
I would recommend doing as Jake asks if he is going to take the time to help you troubleshoot.
FYI, if you are using your phone you will need to upload pics via your phone browser as the app tends to bomb out.
FYI, if you are using your phone you will need to upload pics via your phone browser as the app tends to bomb out.
#18
Below are pics of the wet exhaust bolt and its hole between 5 and 6.
#19
Typically this is a cracked cylinder. I have seen some increasing numbers of a different type of cracked head that can lead to this as well.
The heads can crack very deeply within the casting, and coolant can enter the secondary air capillaries, then exit at the exhaust flange.
Pull the exhaust head pipes and see where the source of the coolant is.. Take pics and post. I'll assist.
The heads can crack very deeply within the casting, and coolant can enter the secondary air capillaries, then exit at the exhaust flange.
Pull the exhaust head pipes and see where the source of the coolant is.. Take pics and post. I'll assist.
Also, the valve stems look whiteish like they have been steamed on cylinder 5 (pictured below). The color is a little hard to see in the pics
4 and 6 are pictured below respectively for comparison.
#20
Former Vendor
Thats not as wet as I'd expect. Typically the pencil sized holes will drip coolant if a 3 chain head is cracked internally.
I see moisture in the #5 exhaust, and at this point that's pointing toward a cracked cylinder. The good news is, thats its not horrible yet. Definitely do not run it anymore, and get it to an M96 Specialist. If the cylinder cracks too far the chunk will break away, and thats a massive failure.
I'd pressurize the cooling system without the engine running, and see what happens. Roll the engine over so the exhaust valves on cylinder 5 are open, pressurize the system, and wait for the show.
I see moisture in the #5 exhaust, and at this point that's pointing toward a cracked cylinder. The good news is, thats its not horrible yet. Definitely do not run it anymore, and get it to an M96 Specialist. If the cylinder cracks too far the chunk will break away, and thats a massive failure.
I'd pressurize the cooling system without the engine running, and see what happens. Roll the engine over so the exhaust valves on cylinder 5 are open, pressurize the system, and wait for the show.
#21
Racer
This gold nugget advice from Raby is worth a lot of money - just think how much a shop would have charged for it, even if you had taken off the exhaust manifold yourself.....
#22
Thats not as wet as I'd expect. Typically the pencil sized holes will drip coolant if a 3 chain head is cracked internally.
I see moisture in the #5 exhaust, and at this point that's pointing toward a cracked cylinder. The good news is, thats its not horrible yet. Definitely do not run it anymore, and get it to an M96 Specialist. If the cylinder cracks too far the chunk will break away, and thats a massive failure.
I'd pressurize the cooling system without the engine running, and see what happens. Roll the engine over so the exhaust valves on cylinder 5 are open, pressurize the system, and wait for the show.
I see moisture in the #5 exhaust, and at this point that's pointing toward a cracked cylinder. The good news is, thats its not horrible yet. Definitely do not run it anymore, and get it to an M96 Specialist. If the cylinder cracks too far the chunk will break away, and thats a massive failure.
I'd pressurize the cooling system without the engine running, and see what happens. Roll the engine over so the exhaust valves on cylinder 5 are open, pressurize the system, and wait for the show.
So does this confirm a cracked cylinder wall and not a cracked head? Thanks again Jake
#23
Former Vendor
This is further confirmation of a cracked cylinder. There's a 1 in 10,000 chance the head gasket failed, but I'd bet against it.
Come get in line!
Come get in line!
#24
Thanks for everyone's help on this. I really appreciate the professional diagnosis Jake. This engine is totally original at 106k miles, so it wont hurt to have an expert go through it anyway.
#25
Former Vendor
So much better than this!
#27
Former Vendor
Actually, the thrust shim was the primary failure.
It was a reman Factory engine and the shim was installed backward. When this occurs the oiling grooves face the carrier and not the crankshaft, so the surfaces do not get enough oil. The lack of lubrication makes for more friction. As the thrust shim wears it becomes thinner and eventually will fall out like this one has.
Actually the thrust shim pictures was installed correctly, but the second one on the opposite side of the carrier was at fault first. It's the one that was installed backward, as there's no signs of wear on the inboard side, but a ton on the outboard.
This is the 5th time I have documented this mode of failure.
It was a reman Factory engine and the shim was installed backward. When this occurs the oiling grooves face the carrier and not the crankshaft, so the surfaces do not get enough oil. The lack of lubrication makes for more friction. As the thrust shim wears it becomes thinner and eventually will fall out like this one has.
Actually the thrust shim pictures was installed correctly, but the second one on the opposite side of the carrier was at fault first. It's the one that was installed backward, as there's no signs of wear on the inboard side, but a ton on the outboard.
This is the 5th time I have documented this mode of failure.