rolex11

I lied, 142 miles from you, 125 miles from you to me.

Flat6 Innovations

That engine is DOA... The bearing failed, and seized the inner and outer races... This fuses the flange onto the inner race and makes it non- removable.

No repair here; you already have collateral damage thats probably including bent valves on bank 1, IMS tensioner paddle shock, and a ton of ferromagnetic debris that has circulated through every internal of the engine.

Game over for this one. Trying to patch up, or repair this will be wasted effort. You'll have to learn that the hard way, though.

Based on what I see, this bearing had failed before it got to the shop, or while they were pulling it into the shop. I don't thing they snapped the stud off, I believe the stud snapping was from the normal trauma of the bearing failing.

Why did the car go to the shop? Did it have IMSB symptoms?

Looks like you waited too late to retrofit this one.

ejdoherty911

The master just weighed in ^^^^^^ it looks like this engine is done. Sorry, that sucks.

Neto

TheMystro

Did I miss the year and mileage of the car???

DBJoe996

As rolex11 suggested - I would give these guys a call. It appears your engine is toast. Since they are within flatbed distance, maybe they could get your car, evaluate the situation and give you some informed recommendations. A short block, or long block replacement engine. Take a deep breath, this is going to be $$$. http://www.vertexauto.com/

Jason 996

It has 138K miles on it. I was changing the IMS due to wanting to prevent any chance of this happening. It never even leaked a drop of oil or make a single noise and ran fine getting there, but as I have read so many times on here that it can happen in a blink of an eye (I was 1.5 years ago going to have the upgrade done but got side tracked - Big mistake on my part). I am glad I didn't be dis-respectful to the shop I took it to, being what they said was correct. Thank you Jake Raby for letting me know what I am looking at. Now I have some tough decisions to make with it. Jake could you tell me if the engine can be rebuilt or do I have to purchase a new one. Also you said the races were seized onto the shaft, would that shaft have to be replaced which I read on here is not in a standard rebuild correct?

bpu699

Can the car be driveable with a seized bearing??? I though the car was asymptomatic prior to this adventure....

docmirror

Yikes, I didn't think there was a catastrophic and instantaneous failure mode to the bearing. All I've ever heard is the slow death rattle, metal particles in the oil, or the crunching of bearing parts as they left the building. Bearing seizure would typically be associated with a loud howl or whine as the bearing races welded themselves to the carrier. And typically a ball bearing will give plenty of audible notice before seizure.

OP, did you get any audible warning from the engine on the way to the shop? Bearing seizure is not generally a silent event.

Jason 996

Nothing at all. In fact i didn't know where they wanted me to pull it into and jumped out of the car and left it running while i ran into the front office to ask i man behind the counter if i should pull it to the garage bay entrance or leave it out front in the customer parking. I didn't hear a sound. I was instructed to pull to the open bay on the side and the man drove it in the rest of the way onto the lift while i was still standing there. Ohh well, I guess I have to not worry about how and focus on next step. BTW do these engines have numbers that would match the VIN on my car or is that something they no longer do in this day and age?

docmirror

I'm hoping this engine makes its way to Jake for actual FA. Sounds like it was running fine right up until the shop started working on it. Did the mileage on the odo match what you had when dropped off? Did they start work the same day you dropped it off? Shops have been known to take nice cars and hot lap them before working to do a 'test drive' on intake. This whole things sound pretty suspicious to me.

Sue Esponte

First question is, how much are you interested in putting into your car? If it needs a new engine, are you interested in taking that costly path or would rather dump it and sell it as a roller?

If you're keeping it, I'd find a Porsche shop (not one that generally does "European" cars ) and have them take a look to validate Jake's opinion before deciding which direction to go.

-Eric

Jason 996

I'm pretty sure they didn't drive it because by the time my wife picked me up they had already asked me if i wanted to replace a piece of plastic that acts like a bottom shield in front of the driver side rear tire that was only like $80 that had a small crack in it. I said sure. They said it would take 1 day to get in and wanted to order right away. They even walked me back there to show me. I was just reading on here some old posts on valuation on rebuilding or just going out and buying a replacement or upgrading to maybe a newer model. From my initial research on here, looks like I can get a rebuild anywhere from roughly 15-25K depending on builder and quality of builder Plus I guess I will need to replace the shaft that the races are seized on that Jake Raby mentioned on a post earlier which I don't know the cost of but will assume around 3,000 plus shipping the car either north or south depending on the current recommendations of the posts earlier so lets say roughly another 1,000 (Just using round numbers- Not precise) that puts it somewhere between 19k -29K. Other cars with less mileage on the car itself (not the engine) and with a newly rebuilt engine realistically are selling for around 20K at best. Just analyzing this logically from a strictly a financial stand point in this analysis at this point. So if I amy realistically spending 30k, should I throw another 10k or 20k with it and upgrade?

gnat

Heh. I was about to suggest you get the number off the motor and then call PCNA to see if they confirm it belongs to your VIN. That they had the motor out bugs me and I tend toward the paranoid side.

Of course if it's not a match, you have to minder if the shop is pulling a fast one or if a PO swapped it previously.

bpu699

Sorry this happened...

Look at the numbers differently...

A 996 with 138,000 miles was probably a $10-12,000 car realistically. At least, I have seen them sell for that in the Midwest.

You can probably sell the car, as is, for $4000 or so.

So, you are out $8000.

Fixing the motor for $20,000 plus doesn't make economic sense. The car will still be worth about $15k... you just increased your losses.

Sell the car for $4000, add $10-15,000 to it, and you can gave another, better, 996 within a couple days...


Or, scrounge for a salvage motor for 6-7000$, and install that...