Rockit

My friend has a 2001 996 with a factory Aero Package. Does anyone have any knowledge of how to fix the bubbles that come up in the center of the spoiler. Seems to be a common problem.

He had it painted 2 times and both times same thing happened. He consulted with paint companies and they don't have an answer.

He called Porsche and they said the car was out of warranty which he knew but they did not offer any solutions. He even bought a used wing...the trunk and spoiler are one piece...the used factory one had the same problem.

I was wondering if anyone had the same problem and was able to figure out a solution.

Thanks

kromdom

any chance there is ANOTHER more qualified/experienced/competent paint shop nearby?

Have a wing on mine (Techart) and do not have the problem you describe

P.S. Post a PICTURE if you can of the problem to help some us (like me) who have poor imagination

Rockit

It's a Porsche wing, its not the paint but the martial the wing/spoiler is made out off. I think it's called "off gassing" it only happens in the center of the wing. Because the used wing was also is the same way, its a problem with the material it's made out of.

I'm thinking Porsche stop making the wing....I'll try and get a picture, its not the typical style wing.

5CHN3LL

Is the wing metal? I have seen occasions where paint would bubble and eventually crack when the underlying metal oxidized, but properly primed and painted metal shouldn't have this problem.

The fact that this has happened twice with two completely different wings makes me suspect that there is a problem with the process being used and not with the material itself. I'm not suggesting your friend is doing a poor job - merely pointing out that his painting is the common denominator between the two bubbling wings...

A photo would help visualize what's going on, and allow those of us with the same wing, if there are any, to contribute whether or not we've had a similar issue.

Rockit

No the wing is factory Porsche, it's some kind of plastic.

The stock wing was painted at the factory and came with the car brand new....its started to bubble after a few years......he than had it painted by Porsche twice..same outcome.

The used one he bought...factory Porsche, had the same issue.

Sue Esponte

I could understand Porsche saying they're not covering a paint issue on a 15yr old car but, you're saying that the problem first presented itself a few years after he bought the car, at which time his dealer (presumably) agreed to repaint it. Then it happened again and his dealer ( presumably) agreed to repaint it a 2nd time.

Just curious...

- Did they charge him for either repaint?
- How long did it take for the problem to resurface after each repaint?
- Did he go back to his dealer a 3rd time immediately after it started to surface following the 2nd repaint?
- Presumably the used one didn't have the problem when he bought it. How old was it when he got it? How long did he have it before that one showed signs of a problem?

Is there any chance it could be environmental...somehow? Does he live near the ocean? Store his car under a heatlamp? lol Okay, last one's a joke...but, seriously, is there anything unique to his circumstances that might help explain? Did he ever ask the dealer if they'd seen the problem before?

-Eric

5CHN3LL

Yeah, I'm with Eric. I don't understand why two different parts painted at different times both developed an issue I haven't seen or heard of. The storage environment and/or anything products being used on the car are the things that I'd investigate at this point...I have one car ('96 Corvette) that is made entirely of fiberglass and plastic as well as a 17-year-old 996 with a wing, and I've never seen what you're describing.

*edit* Well, shut my mouth and call me Susie...a Google search suggests that this IS definitely a problem with some spoiler sections, but I don't see any post that has a definitive cause or solution.

Here's one comment from one of those threads:
"Porsche repainted my GT3 style spoiler three times because the paint kept bubbling, finally replaced it with a new one and I'm awaiting results. I suspect the underlying fiberglas was not properly cured."

langg

If it were mine, I'd go talk to the local guy that paints Corvettes. He would have experience with painting fiberglass.

Good luck. Hope mine doesn't do that.

Lang G

5CHN3LL

Corvette forum shares the following wisdom: If the mold was treated with too much mold release compound, some of it becomes impregnated in the fiberglass and starts to leach out later, causing the paint to lift. Other chemicals, such as brake fluid, will cause this if the finished part was contaminated before being painted.

Sanding, baking, and gel coating are how it's been addressed by Corvette paint shops. Another painter recommends cleaning the part extensively with acetone, and then sealing it with several layers of gel coat to encapsulate any remaining contaminant.

Further Corvette goodness: "There is a chemical cleaner that removes silicones(Used to be called DuPont Prep-Sol)... I used it before my second repaint and the DOT5 problem never came back. I had to really soak some spots repeatedly though and it took time & patience."

I think Langg hit it dead nuts by suggesting you take it to a Corvette paint specialist - they will have whatever magic juju is needed to get the part decontaminated and sealed.

mharrison

Mine is like that too. It has what looks like four bubbles under the paint. It just looks kind of dimpled. My preferred local body shop, European Coachworks, says it is the fiberglass de-laminating. He said that is not uncommon with fiberglass pieces.

5CHN3LL

Dear God, there are some horror stories with Corvettes. One guy had a master cylinder leak and brake fluid wound up wicking into his hood - he's been trying to fix it for a decade.

OKB

I would first say that when a part is sanded and primed it is common to FIRST wipe with prep sol or wax and grease remover or silicone remover to get any of the cars wax jobs off of it or what ever people have rubbed it with. It is most important to handle the chemical properly or it will 'back fire' on you. if you dont wipe off properly you will just rub the waxes around and not remove them. If you dont let it dry or wash it off it will seep into the part and eventually resurface, bubbling the paint.
Secondly I have done painting on fiberglass and plastic and as a final solution to surface troubles I have stripped and reprimed with water borne primers and solver all the problems
As for the fiberglass gel coats trapping or releasing after time, it can be solved by the stripping and repriming with waterborne primer and its a time consuming job and will cost respectively

groovzilla

a common issue with bubbles forming under painted surfaces on cars is moisture in paint when it is applied. this happened to a 356 of mine years ago - when i would let it bake in the sun the bubbles would disappear - crasy but true.

only fix is to strip and repaint

Rockit

I found this post on Pelican. Seems Porsche is having a problem with the wing and to cut that section out and replace it seems to be the answer.

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In 2006 I bought a 22K mile 2001 red 996 with the factory aero kit. The car had bubbles in the center section of the spoiler. From the local Porsche club I got the name a bodyshop that was favored by club members. They painted the center section. Two months later the bubbles reappeared. They stripped off the paint and at each bubble it was actually damp when they dug into the finish. It was decided that it would be useless to paint it.

I did a search and found someone in the UK who manufactured GT3 rear wings. He said his center section would fit the factory rear wing. I bought it, the body shop painted it and a year later when I sold the car it was still perfect. Unfortunately, I do not have the name of the UK supplier anymore.

In February of this year, I bought a 27K mile 2001 black 996 with the factory aero kit. The center section had bubbles. I took it to the local body shop in Charlotte that does all of the Porsche dealer work and was also recommended by the Porsche club. I have used him previously and have been very satisfied with his work. I explained that this was the second car I have had with the same issue. He said he had seen it before. He would dig out each of the bubbles, heat the wing in their drying oven, then prep and paint it.

Within one week, the bubbles were back and it appeared as if he had never touched it. He called the local Porsche dealer but they did not have any information and recommended I call Porsche's hot line and talk with them. At this point, warranty is not an issue but my body guy would sure like to hear if Porsche has a solution for treating the panel.

Based on my experience, I would say Porsche had a defective batch of these center sections.

Rockit

Also found this from a company that makes metal aero kits for Porsches, they say why fiberglass will bubble;

Because no matter what manufacturers and sellers of fiberglass body panels tell you, the fitment and most importantly, the longevity of a fiberglass body kit is very poor. There are several problems with a fiberglass body kit. The first is how porous fiberglass is and thus it contracts and expands to temperature as well as air and water being trapped inside the fiberglass. What this does is (a.) The expanding and contracting of the fiberglass causes fitment problems and can cause paint cracking. Second, the air bubbles and moisture trapped in the pours of the fiberglass can evaporate to the surface in extreme heat, causing the air or moisture to come up to the surface right under the paint and cause paint bubbles or paint reactions. Now if the parts you are using are only bumpers and tails, if the parts made well, meaning care is taken to not allow for hollow points in the fiberglass, or not to make the part too thin to cause waves or too thick making it too heavy, fiberglass bumpers and wings can be used if prepared properly. (a.) The fiberglass bumpers and wings must be heat cycled, either out in the hot sun for a few days, so the air and moisture can be allowed to evaporate as much possible (b.) and the parts must be prepare correctly with a sealer and or a non-poly primer so any remaining air or moisture will be trapped inside and not be allowed to rise to the surface under extreme heat. So even though there are cures for fiberglass problems as mentioned above, if treated properly, the last element posed the biggest problem for fiberglass body kits and they is bonding points.