Tiptronic transmission removal/install and EPS IMS upgrade kit- Write-up with pics
03-24-2016, 08:59 AM
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Tiptronic transmission removal/install and EPS IMS upgrade kit- Write-up with pics
Having found nothing on tiptronic transmission removal and reinstallation before I started this, I am posting this write-up through several posts in hopes that others will find some inspiration. I did this job completely on jack stands, which took a bit more time than it would have on a lift and also required some forethought to be able to move the transmission around since I was doing this job alone. This was meant to be a winter project where I would work on it in bits and pieces… there were a lot of steps and while the actual number of steps below may seem daunting, in the end it only took 12 days working on it here and there and I took a lot of notes for posterity. This is my first Porsche and this project was great way for me to gain some intimate knowledge of the car’s mechanicals.
Disclaimer: What follows is my personal experience with this project. This is not a how-to and if you choose to do this, you are responsible for your own safety and property.
2000 996 C2 Tiptronic. I purchased the European Parts Solution IMS Bearing Upgrade Kit with forced engine oil feed for only $441 shipped (half price) directly from Vertex on eBay. Having thought about my options on this for quite some time, I decided on this kit due to the following reasons:
- Two rubber cam plugs: $4 each from pelican
- Drive plate to crank bolts (8) $23 from local auto parts supply
- IMS tool kit purchased on eBay for $180 + $10 shipping. I am going to resell this back on eBay as “used”.
- Hose pinch clamps, which I had, but after seeing they were the wrong size, I plugged the transmission coolant hoses with a couple of used wine corks held in place with the existing hose clamps and they worked like a charm. Go figure… now my coolant has the slight flavor of a nice Chianti.
Other items purchased during this project (not necessarily required to do IMS job).
- Engine oil and filter change: Mobil-1 (5w-40) $51/10qts from Walmart, Mahle filter $10.75 from Pelican, plug washer $0.25 from Pelican
- Left side differential output seal: $ 48.66 from local auto parts supply
- Gear oil: Mobil 1 75W/90 synthetic 1 qt. $11 from Autozone
- 5/16 brass double hose barb to permanently replace the brittle coolant connector that inevitably fails when you work on these engines. $3 from Lowes.
- A bit of silicone hose to splice the brittle line coming from the forward plenum to the EGR valve that also always breaks: Free-had some laying in my parts box.
- Contitech drive belt- only because I wanted a spare: $19 from Pelican
- Transmission fluid and filter change: Transmission pan gasket: $34.15 from local auto parts supply; Porsche branded filter: $ 58.75 from Pelican, but could have went with the ZF one for $39 also from Pelican; Transmission fluid (ATF): a controversial topic to be sure. My car is a 2000 model year with the ZF transmission and the local Porsche dealer wanted $54 a liter! After researching options, I decided on “Castrol Transmax Import multi-vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid”. Castrol recommends this for transmissions requiring LT71141 and some others on this forum have used it in the past with good results. A cursory web search shows that the BMW-crowd that have a ZF transmission requiring LT71141 have been using it for years with no ill effects. I have had no issues with slipping or overheating since using this ATF and it was on sale at half price for only $4 qt. from Advance Auto Parts (used 7.5 qts). The ATF replacement job also required the use of a monstrous 17mm hex socket, purchased for $9 and a fluid pump $9 both from Autozone
- Coolant: In case any was spilled. I didn’t need any, so I didn’t purchase.
- Infrared thermometer for filling transmission: $23 from Lowes
- JB Weld: I cracked the oil fill tube and easily epoxied it.
I am listing the approximate time that it took to do each step below… I say approximate, because it doesn’t include breaks, chasing down missing tools, mistakes, running out to buy parts/fluid or sniffing wine corks as above. I also bagged and labeled every set of bolts that came off and this saved a lot of head scratching.
If I did this again, it would take a lot less time.
Disclaimer: What follows is my personal experience with this project. This is not a how-to and if you choose to do this, you are responsible for your own safety and property.
2000 996 C2 Tiptronic. I purchased the European Parts Solution IMS Bearing Upgrade Kit with forced engine oil feed for only $441 shipped (half price) directly from Vertex on eBay. Having thought about my options on this for quite some time, I decided on this kit due to the following reasons:
- Cylindrical bearing design.
- The simplicity of the oil feed design which required no complex parts that could fail or need maintenance.
- Low cost. I was skeptical that I needed this upgrade in the first place and really I just wanted a project to tackle, so not spending a significant amount was key. In reality, I was right on about not needing this because the double row bearing that I pulled out was perfect in every way. I keep telling myself that having done the job will improve the resale of the car should that time come lol.
- Two rubber cam plugs: $4 each from pelican
- Drive plate to crank bolts (8) $23 from local auto parts supply
- IMS tool kit purchased on eBay for $180 + $10 shipping. I am going to resell this back on eBay as “used”.
- Hose pinch clamps, which I had, but after seeing they were the wrong size, I plugged the transmission coolant hoses with a couple of used wine corks held in place with the existing hose clamps and they worked like a charm. Go figure… now my coolant has the slight flavor of a nice Chianti.
Other items purchased during this project (not necessarily required to do IMS job).
- Engine oil and filter change: Mobil-1 (5w-40) $51/10qts from Walmart, Mahle filter $10.75 from Pelican, plug washer $0.25 from Pelican
- Left side differential output seal: $ 48.66 from local auto parts supply
- Gear oil: Mobil 1 75W/90 synthetic 1 qt. $11 from Autozone
- 5/16 brass double hose barb to permanently replace the brittle coolant connector that inevitably fails when you work on these engines. $3 from Lowes.
- A bit of silicone hose to splice the brittle line coming from the forward plenum to the EGR valve that also always breaks: Free-had some laying in my parts box.
- Contitech drive belt- only because I wanted a spare: $19 from Pelican
- Transmission fluid and filter change: Transmission pan gasket: $34.15 from local auto parts supply; Porsche branded filter: $ 58.75 from Pelican, but could have went with the ZF one for $39 also from Pelican; Transmission fluid (ATF): a controversial topic to be sure. My car is a 2000 model year with the ZF transmission and the local Porsche dealer wanted $54 a liter! After researching options, I decided on “Castrol Transmax Import multi-vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid”. Castrol recommends this for transmissions requiring LT71141 and some others on this forum have used it in the past with good results. A cursory web search shows that the BMW-crowd that have a ZF transmission requiring LT71141 have been using it for years with no ill effects. I have had no issues with slipping or overheating since using this ATF and it was on sale at half price for only $4 qt. from Advance Auto Parts (used 7.5 qts). The ATF replacement job also required the use of a monstrous 17mm hex socket, purchased for $9 and a fluid pump $9 both from Autozone
- Coolant: In case any was spilled. I didn’t need any, so I didn’t purchase.
- Infrared thermometer for filling transmission: $23 from Lowes
- JB Weld: I cracked the oil fill tube and easily epoxied it.
I am listing the approximate time that it took to do each step below… I say approximate, because it doesn’t include breaks, chasing down missing tools, mistakes, running out to buy parts/fluid or sniffing wine corks as above. I also bagged and labeled every set of bolts that came off and this saved a lot of head scratching.
If I did this again, it would take a lot less time.
Last edited by Vince124; 03-24-2016 at 09:18 AM.
03-24-2016, 09:01 AM
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- Lifted rear of car: 10 minutes.
Placed rear on ramps (safer than stands) and chocked front wheels, but eventually I did place the front of the car on jack stands once I was ready to lower the transmission. In addition to the two holding up the front of the car, I use three other jack stands to hold up the engine: One when unbolted from transmission and two to hold the engine when removing motor mounts.
- Starter removal: 1.5 hour (Pelican has a nicely illustrated how-to on this), but I also removed the second plenum. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...EC-Starter.htm
Removed airbox: 13mm bolt next to latch, squeeze and pull off MAF electrical connector on large hose, remove hose clamp to throttle body. I did not have the extra breather hose that some tiptronics have.
Removed throttle body: (4) 10mm bolts, one electrical connector
Removed both intake plenums: The Pelican write-up says only the first one, but removing the top bell housing bolt is significantly easier once I removed the second plenum. Loosen inner hose clamps on either side (4 per plenum) and rotate plenum to break hoses free, then loosen outer hose clamps and rotate plenum to break plenum free. The trick here was to slide the short hoses on either side, away from the plenum to get it off. Removed and labeled all vacuum hoses coming off of both plenums.
Removed starter: (2) 15mm bolts- need to use a series of long extensions and u-joint on ratchet. Also removed electrical connections to starter (1) 10mm nut and (1) 13mm nut.
- Removed Torque Converter (TC) bolts: 0.5 hour.
Rotated crank clockwise with socket on crank pulley (don’t recall the size) until the TC bolts appeared in starter hole and hole in crank pulley was lined up to pin it to keep from moving (used short/thin screwdriver to pin, but can use tool provided with IMS tool kit). Removed 6mm bolts from TC to drive plate, 2 at a time and rotated crank and pinned at pulley to do next set of 2. Six in bolts in all, again using a series of long extensions and u-joint on ratchet.
Placed rear on ramps (safer than stands) and chocked front wheels, but eventually I did place the front of the car on jack stands once I was ready to lower the transmission. In addition to the two holding up the front of the car, I use three other jack stands to hold up the engine: One when unbolted from transmission and two to hold the engine when removing motor mounts.
- Starter removal: 1.5 hour (Pelican has a nicely illustrated how-to on this), but I also removed the second plenum. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...EC-Starter.htm
Removed airbox: 13mm bolt next to latch, squeeze and pull off MAF electrical connector on large hose, remove hose clamp to throttle body. I did not have the extra breather hose that some tiptronics have.
Removed throttle body: (4) 10mm bolts, one electrical connector
Removed both intake plenums: The Pelican write-up says only the first one, but removing the top bell housing bolt is significantly easier once I removed the second plenum. Loosen inner hose clamps on either side (4 per plenum) and rotate plenum to break hoses free, then loosen outer hose clamps and rotate plenum to break plenum free. The trick here was to slide the short hoses on either side, away from the plenum to get it off. Removed and labeled all vacuum hoses coming off of both plenums.
Removed starter: (2) 15mm bolts- need to use a series of long extensions and u-joint on ratchet. Also removed electrical connections to starter (1) 10mm nut and (1) 13mm nut.
- Removed Torque Converter (TC) bolts: 0.5 hour.
Rotated crank clockwise with socket on crank pulley (don’t recall the size) until the TC bolts appeared in starter hole and hole in crank pulley was lined up to pin it to keep from moving (used short/thin screwdriver to pin, but can use tool provided with IMS tool kit). Removed 6mm bolts from TC to drive plate, 2 at a time and rotated crank and pinned at pulley to do next set of 2. Six in bolts in all, again using a series of long extensions and u-joint on ratchet.
Last edited by Vince124; 03-24-2016 at 10:14 AM.
03-24-2016, 09:02 AM
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- Removed underbody trays: 0.5 hour
Rear: 3 Phillips head screws, (4) 10mm nuts, plastic push pin thingy known as “underbody covering rivet”
Center: (10) 10mm nuts
Sides (just forward of rear wheels): 2 Philips head screws each side.
Rear: 3 Phillips head screws, (4) 10mm nuts, plastic push pin thingy known as “underbody covering rivet”
Center: (10) 10mm nuts
Sides (just forward of rear wheels): 2 Philips head screws each side.
03-24-2016, 09:03 AM
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- Removed braces: 1 hour
Unbolt sway bar at frame, swing away and tie off.
Unbolt Horizontal brace: (2) 15mm bolts
Unbolt diagonal braces: (1) 15mm bolt each side, (1) 16mm bolt each side, (1) 15mm nut on top of each side
Unbolt the thick cross member (rear axle support) that sits below the seam between the engine and transmission. (2) 16mm bolts each side, (2) 18mm nuts each side. At this point I was able to see that I had a double row IMS bearing as I described in the below thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...nsmission.html
Unbolt sway bar at frame, swing away and tie off.
Unbolt Horizontal brace: (2) 15mm bolts
Unbolt diagonal braces: (1) 15mm bolt each side, (1) 16mm bolt each side, (1) 15mm nut on top of each side
Unbolt the thick cross member (rear axle support) that sits below the seam between the engine and transmission. (2) 16mm bolts each side, (2) 18mm nuts each side. At this point I was able to see that I had a double row IMS bearing as I described in the below thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...nsmission.html
03-24-2016, 09:04 AM
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- Unbolted Axle shafts from transmission: 2 hours
(6) 8mm hex bolts each side. Easier to do drivers side first for better visibility of bolts. Noticed gear oil leaking from differential.
(6) 8mm hex bolts each side. Easier to do drivers side first for better visibility of bolts. Noticed gear oil leaking from differential.
03-24-2016, 09:05 AM
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- Transmission wires: 5 minutes.
Unclipped shifter cable and pulled off of transmission. Disconnected multifunction plug. Disconnected bayonet plug by turning counter-clockwise.
Unclipped shifter cable and pulled off of transmission. Disconnected multifunction plug. Disconnected bayonet plug by turning counter-clockwise.
03-24-2016, 09:06 AM
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- Transmission coolant hoses: 5 minutes.
The hose pinch clamps that I had were the wrong size, so I plugged the transmission coolant hoses with a couple of used wine corks held in place with the existing hose clamp. Probably works better than the clamps.
The hose pinch clamps that I had were the wrong size, so I plugged the transmission coolant hoses with a couple of used wine corks held in place with the existing hose clamp. Probably works better than the clamps.
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03-24-2016, 09:07 AM
#8
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- Transmission removal: 3 hours
Removed vacuum line from transmission switch over valve located above bell housing on left.
Pinned torque converter from top, with tool from IMS tool kit (can be tricky, but must seat fully all the way to the handle; by using an alternate metal rod, it would be difficult to know whether the tool was fully seated or not). Tool goes into slots next to bolt holes on the TC.
I propped the engine on a jack stand and raised/strapped on a cheap-o transmission jack from Harbor freight. Would not use this jack again, but rather would modify a floor jack. Jack placement is under the pan, close to the bell housing and almost touching the differential side of the transmission to balance properly when lowering.
Bell housing bolts: (See pic) I used series of extensions and a u-joint where necessary.
Bolt #1: 16mm bolt, placed ratchet on bolt from top through engine compartment and cracked bolt from the bottom.
Bolts # 7, 5, 4, 3, 2 were all relatively easy took about 15 minutes each. #4 was a 12 point star bolt, but came out with a T-50 torx socket. There is no bolt at #6.
Bolt #8 was the most difficult one due to the position and the tools I had on hand. Once it cracked I could only move it maybe a mm or two at a time. This single bolt took more than an hour to remove.
Removed nuts/bolts from transmission carrier and support at front end of transmission.
The transmission was now resting on the transmission jack.
Removed vacuum line from transmission switch over valve located above bell housing on left.
Pinned torque converter from top, with tool from IMS tool kit (can be tricky, but must seat fully all the way to the handle; by using an alternate metal rod, it would be difficult to know whether the tool was fully seated or not). Tool goes into slots next to bolt holes on the TC.
I propped the engine on a jack stand and raised/strapped on a cheap-o transmission jack from Harbor freight. Would not use this jack again, but rather would modify a floor jack. Jack placement is under the pan, close to the bell housing and almost touching the differential side of the transmission to balance properly when lowering.
Bell housing bolts: (See pic) I used series of extensions and a u-joint where necessary.
Bolt #1: 16mm bolt, placed ratchet on bolt from top through engine compartment and cracked bolt from the bottom.
Bolts # 7, 5, 4, 3, 2 were all relatively easy took about 15 minutes each. #4 was a 12 point star bolt, but came out with a T-50 torx socket. There is no bolt at #6.
Bolt #8 was the most difficult one due to the position and the tools I had on hand. Once it cracked I could only move it maybe a mm or two at a time. This single bolt took more than an hour to remove.
Removed nuts/bolts from transmission carrier and support at front end of transmission.
The transmission was now resting on the transmission jack.
Last edited by Vince124; 03-24-2016 at 02:04 PM.
03-24-2016, 09:08 AM
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- Waiting for parts to arrive: 2 days
At this point I lowered the transmission with the transmission jack (an adventure with that lousy jack) and planned to leave it under the car, but since I was waiting for some parts to arrive, I stacked up some short 2x4 wood pieces under the narrow end of the transmission and on the other side of the transmission under the pan near the bell housing. I lowered the jack to rest the transmission on the 2x4s and then removed the 2x4s one at a time until I could slide the transmission onto a piece of cardboard and out from under the car. The transmission was not as heavy as I expected and once removed, it actually looked smaller to me. I was able to muscle it back onto the transmission jack once it was out from under the car in order to move around the garage.
With the crank pinned I removed the (8) T-55 torx bolts from the drive plate with an impact gun, but could have used a breaker bar if needed.
Drained engine oil and replaced oil filter.
At this point I lowered the transmission with the transmission jack (an adventure with that lousy jack) and planned to leave it under the car, but since I was waiting for some parts to arrive, I stacked up some short 2x4 wood pieces under the narrow end of the transmission and on the other side of the transmission under the pan near the bell housing. I lowered the jack to rest the transmission on the 2x4s and then removed the 2x4s one at a time until I could slide the transmission onto a piece of cardboard and out from under the car. The transmission was not as heavy as I expected and once removed, it actually looked smaller to me. I was able to muscle it back onto the transmission jack once it was out from under the car in order to move around the garage.
With the crank pinned I removed the (8) T-55 torx bolts from the drive plate with an impact gun, but could have used a breaker bar if needed.
Drained engine oil and replaced oil filter.
03-24-2016, 09:10 AM
#11
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- Removed cam tensioners: 5 minutes
Removed cam tensioner 1-3 at bottom of engine w/ 32mm socket (1-1/4”)
Removed tensioner (IMS to crank) w/32mm socket (1-1/4”), but needed to remove 10mm bolt holding the hose to oil filter area to make room for socket.
Removed cam tensioner 1-3 at bottom of engine w/ 32mm socket (1-1/4”)
Removed tensioner (IMS to crank) w/32mm socket (1-1/4”), but needed to remove 10mm bolt holding the hose to oil filter area to make room for socket.
03-24-2016, 09:11 AM
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- Removed IMS bearing: 20 min.
Used EPS instructions: http://europeanpartssolution.com/wp-...ernal.IMS_.pdf
Removed flange bolts: reverse torx bolts and the hex nut on bearing shaft.
Pulled bearing and internal clip with bearing puller from IMS tool kit and cleaned inside of shaft. The bearing was perfectly firm and did not leak oil.
Used EPS instructions: http://europeanpartssolution.com/wp-...ernal.IMS_.pdf
Removed flange bolts: reverse torx bolts and the hex nut on bearing shaft.
Pulled bearing and internal clip with bearing puller from IMS tool kit and cleaned inside of shaft. The bearing was perfectly firm and did not leak oil.
03-24-2016, 09:13 AM
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- IMS bearing install: 45 min
Installed bearing with tool provided with EPS bearing kit and red thread-locker as per EPS instruction. The bearing won’t go in unless it is perfectly straight, so I took a bit of extra time here.
Installed new flange bolts (15ftlbs) and shaft nut (35ftlbs).
Installed drive plate with the new bolts: (19ftlbs) in a cross-wise pattern, then marked top of bolt and tightened an extra 90 degrees. I used an old box wrench that came with some odd item to hold the drive plate while torqueing (see pic), but wonder if the pin at the crank pulley would have been enough.
Installed bearing with tool provided with EPS bearing kit and red thread-locker as per EPS instruction. The bearing won’t go in unless it is perfectly straight, so I took a bit of extra time here.
Installed new flange bolts (15ftlbs) and shaft nut (35ftlbs).
Installed drive plate with the new bolts: (19ftlbs) in a cross-wise pattern, then marked top of bolt and tightened an extra 90 degrees. I used an old box wrench that came with some odd item to hold the drive plate while torqueing (see pic), but wonder if the pin at the crank pulley would have been enough.
Last edited by Vince124; 03-24-2016 at 10:21 AM.
03-24-2016, 09:14 AM
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- IMS oil feed install part 1: 1 hour
Removed catalytic converters: (3) 12mm bolts at flange used u-joint, (2) 12mm bolts at clamp, (1) 13mm bolts at hanger. Disconnected wiring for (2) oxygen sensors from top by pulling red clips.
- IMS oil feed install part 2: 1 hour
Jacked engine under oil pan and placed 2 jack stands under engine for redundancy.
Removed (2) 18 mm nuts from motor mounts to carrier.
Removed heat-shield strip from carrier and (4) 15mm bolts that go from the carrier to engine
Removed oil pump cover bolts (7) 10mm and (1) 15mm.
Removed oil pump cover, gears, allen-drive and punched a 3mm hole into IMS cover with provided punch as per EPS instructions.
Replaced allen-drive with the slotted one that came with the EPS kit.
Removed catalytic converters: (3) 12mm bolts at flange used u-joint, (2) 12mm bolts at clamp, (1) 13mm bolts at hanger. Disconnected wiring for (2) oxygen sensors from top by pulling red clips.
- IMS oil feed install part 2: 1 hour
Jacked engine under oil pan and placed 2 jack stands under engine for redundancy.
Removed (2) 18 mm nuts from motor mounts to carrier.
Removed heat-shield strip from carrier and (4) 15mm bolts that go from the carrier to engine
Removed oil pump cover bolts (7) 10mm and (1) 15mm.
Removed oil pump cover, gears, allen-drive and punched a 3mm hole into IMS cover with provided punch as per EPS instructions.
Replaced allen-drive with the slotted one that came with the EPS kit.
Last edited by Vince124; 03-24-2016 at 02:09 PM.
03-24-2016, 09:15 AM
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- Reinstalled engine carrier and cats: 2 hours
Installed nuts on carrier to motor mounts (63ftlbs), should’ve replaced those nuts in retrospect. Installed carrier to engine (34ftlbs)
Installed Catalytic converters: bolts at flange to header (22ftlbs), bolts at clamp to muffler (60ftlbs), bolts at hanger to heat shield (22ftlbs), oxygen sensors wiring: pre-cat sensor to black plug, sensor directly on cat to gray plug.
- Reinstalling transmission: 4 hours
In order to decrease the weight of the transmission to get it back on the jack, I removed the torque converter (this also allowed me to empty and fill most of it), drained the transmission fluid and removed the differential cover, gear oil and the differential itself.
I slid transmission under the car on cardboard and using the low profile stock jack from the spare tire, I alternately jacked each end and built up 2x4s until I could get the transmission jack under and strapped to the transmission jack. I replaced the leaking seal on the differential cover and reinstalled the differential, cover and filled with new gear oil. (12) T-40 torx bolts on differential cover (23ftlbs). Differential hex-bolt fill plug (30ftlbs).
I installed the torque converter using the “double clunk method”, making sure to pin the TC on the right side of the holes to be sure that they will be accessible from the starter hole.
I raised the transmission into place and needed to use the stock jack again to get the bell hosing lined up properly with the engine. Once I got bolt #8 started, I raised/lowered the jack to get #3 bolted (#8 and #3 needed to be bolted first due to the protrusions from their respective holes). All other bolts were relatively easy after that and torqued to specs: (45ftlbs) for bolts #4 and 5. All other bolts were (85ftlbs)
Secured transmission carrier and support at front of transmission: all bolts: (48ftlbs)
Installed nuts on carrier to motor mounts (63ftlbs), should’ve replaced those nuts in retrospect. Installed carrier to engine (34ftlbs)
Installed Catalytic converters: bolts at flange to header (22ftlbs), bolts at clamp to muffler (60ftlbs), bolts at hanger to heat shield (22ftlbs), oxygen sensors wiring: pre-cat sensor to black plug, sensor directly on cat to gray plug.
- Reinstalling transmission: 4 hours
In order to decrease the weight of the transmission to get it back on the jack, I removed the torque converter (this also allowed me to empty and fill most of it), drained the transmission fluid and removed the differential cover, gear oil and the differential itself.
I slid transmission under the car on cardboard and using the low profile stock jack from the spare tire, I alternately jacked each end and built up 2x4s until I could get the transmission jack under and strapped to the transmission jack. I replaced the leaking seal on the differential cover and reinstalled the differential, cover and filled with new gear oil. (12) T-40 torx bolts on differential cover (23ftlbs). Differential hex-bolt fill plug (30ftlbs).
I installed the torque converter using the “double clunk method”, making sure to pin the TC on the right side of the holes to be sure that they will be accessible from the starter hole.
I raised the transmission into place and needed to use the stock jack again to get the bell hosing lined up properly with the engine. Once I got bolt #8 started, I raised/lowered the jack to get #3 bolted (#8 and #3 needed to be bolted first due to the protrusions from their respective holes). All other bolts were relatively easy after that and torqued to specs: (45ftlbs) for bolts #4 and 5. All other bolts were (85ftlbs)
Secured transmission carrier and support at front of transmission: all bolts: (48ftlbs)
Last edited by Vince124; 03-28-2016 at 02:10 PM.