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Over the weekend I installed new drop links to cure the low-speed clunking over speed bumps and such. As long as the right front wheel was off, I pulled back the fender liner to look at the carbon canister and emission system. Using my Durametric, I exercised the fuel evaporative valve (which I think is the same as the EVAP canister purge valve in the Porsche diagnosis), which is the little valve that hangs off of the alternator in the engine compartment. It made little clicks on and off as the Porsche troubleshooting guide says it should for Code P0430, so it's probably OK. I did the same for the charcoal filter shutoff valve , which is at the top of the wheel well, usually covered by the fender liner. It made satisfying clicks on and off, so it's probably OK as well.
Today I drove starting from cold for half an hour with the Durametric monitoring the ECU. I felt that it was running roughly. The Durametric showed a little rough running and a few misfires during the first minute (see graphs below).
After 25 minutes I let the car idle for a while. It felt a little rough and a door panel rattled slightly (where the dealer didn't reassemble door correctly). The Duramtric, however, showed no roughness or misfires (see graphs below). Maybe I'm just overly sensitive after all that the engine has been through.
The bank 1 camshaft deviation is still at 6 degrees, while bank 2 is at 0 degrees. I don't know whether replacing the bank 1 chain tensioner will solve this problem.
The indie that installed the new bank 1 valve lifters said that everything was good with the Porsche timing tool, so bank 1 should not have a camshaft deviation of 6 degrees. He suggested that maybe a sprocket that attaches to the intermediate shaft has slipped a little. He said that this is common and that LN Engineering prevents it by adding a few spot welds to hold the shaft and the various sprockets in place. Other 996s he has done similar work on come out with about 0 degrees of camshaft deviation.
The indie that installed the new bank 1 valve lifters said that everything was good with the Porsche timing tool, so bank 1 should not have a camshaft deviation of 6 degrees. He suggested that maybe a sprocket that attaches to the intermediate shaft has slipped a little. He said that this is common and that LN Engineering prevents it by adding a few spot welds to hold the shaft and the various sprockets in place. Other 996s he has done similar work on come out with about 0 degrees of camshaft deviation.
Incorrect. The cam deviations are measured by the hall sensor and its reluctor wheel on the intake camshaft.
The IMS has nothing to do with this if the timing has been set. Any slippage in the IMS would have been corrected with the setting of the cam timing.
What he didn't do was use the proper pre- tensioner tool, or pump up the hydraulic tensioner before setting timing.
Dang. And he took your class, so he should have known this.
Is there anything I can do without removing the cam cover to get the deviation back to where it belongs?
"You can lead a human to knowledge, but you can't make them think"
First of all, the Porsche allowable spec for cam timing, is 6 degrees.
Secondly, The cam cover can stay on to set timing. Pull the scavenge pump, and the camshaft end plugs, and timing is a breeze. He may not have turned the engine enough after he set timing, to ensure that it was still set. I turn the engine at least 7 times after setting timing, then I check the fit of the tools again. It is often out of spec after checking it, and must be corrected. We do go over this in the class, and just did it this past Saturday, in the enthusiast class.
The tensioner being fully pumped up is a requirement; else cam timing will be perfect on the bench, but incorrect once oil pressure hits the tensioners.
Yes, I can confirm in the m96 engine rebuild class, we spent the whole morning learning how to time the m96, both the 3-chain and 5-chain versions. Both Tony and Jake made a point of rotating the engine many times and recheck timing. We used the Porsche special tool (mechanical spring loaded tensioners) in class though.
Yes, I can confirm in the m96 engine rebuild class, we spent the whole morning learning how to time the m96, both the 3-chain and 5-chain versions. Both Tony and Jake made a point of rotating the engine many times and recheck timing. We used the Porsche special tool (mechanical spring loaded tensioners) in class though.
Can the Porsche timing tool fit into the engine with the engine still in the car, maybe dropped down a few inches in the rear?
Can the Porsche timing tool fit into the engine with the engine still in the car, maybe dropped down a few inches in the rear?
I've never tried it but I think the bigger challenge is how to loosen the big variocam actuator bolt on the intake cam. I think the rear frame is in the way. Even with the engine out, I needed an impact gun to loosen that bolt.
I think you may have a chance if you can lower the whole engine/trans by a few inches passed the rear cross beam (with the cross beam removed).
4)FSI has 1 year warranty for parts and labor, price 40% higher than MB. We also offer 1 year warranty for parts and labor, price is 40% cheaper than FSI.
Hmm. I started having valve lifter trouble at 6.5 months. I would have had to pay thousands and thousands of dollars in shipping to get my car to MB Motorsports in Florida. I would like to have the money I spent at my local German car shop refunded.
Last edited by DrMEMS; 05-23-2016 at 08:47 PM.
Reason: Clarified engine vendor
4)FSI has 1 year warranty for parts and labor, price 40% higher than MB. We also offer 1 year warranty for parts and labor, price is 40% cheaper than FSI.
Hmm. I started having valve lifter trouble at 6.5 months. I would have had to pay thousands and thousands of dollars in shipping to get my car to Florida. I would like to have the money I spent at my local German car shop refunded.
Just to be clear (since I have received a PM asking) Drmems was not my customer. If he was I would have paid the shipping (both ways) for him and took care of it.
Just to be clear (since I have received a PM asking) Drmems was not my customer. If he was I would have paid the shipping (both ways) for him and took care of it.
For the record.
Right. I got my rebuilt from MB Motorsports. I figured that they were good enough, having rebuilt Porsche engines for a long time. After 6.5 months, a valve lifter started to stick. I can't tell whether they had been replaced during rebuilding or not because they have told me both. They have a supplier that sells the lifters for something like $30, which is a fraction of the price everywhere else, which makes me wonder whether they use Porsche brand lifters.
I wish that I had the service that Jake has provided to his customers. When I got the rebuilt M96 engine, it was the fastest affordable option I could find. Jake has a long waiting list.
I wish that I had the service that Jake has provided to his customers. When I got the rebuilt M96 engine, it was the fastest affordable option I could find. Jake has a long waiting list.
Fast isn't what we are known for... One reason it's not fast is because we take the proper time, but also because there's a backlog of folks waiting for what isn't the fastest. They know that we stand behind it, too, even outside of warranty.
Cheap, fast, or reliable. Choose ONE.
The most expensive Porsche engine you can find has the cheapest price. It just sucks that people have to learn this from first hand experience.
That said, what local shop fixed this for you, DrMems?
Right. I got my rebuilt from MB Motorsports. I figured that they were good enough, having rebuilt Porsche engines for a long time. After 6.5 months, a valve lifter started to stick.
That guy is a hack and a dirt ball. He's the jackass that used to call his company Porscheland when he was in the Chicago suburbs. After Porsche sent him a cease & dismiss letter, dipstick changed his name to Forscheland. All the while, using Porsche's colors and font on his web site.
That said, what local shop fixed this for you, DrMems?
William Sverderlov at Bay Area Motor Works in Campbell, California. Last year when I was looking for a rebuilder you mentioned that he had taken your class.
He removed the original engine, shipped it to MB, then installed the rebuilt engine. When I had the sticking cylinder 1 valve lifter, he replaced all of the lifters on bank 1.
Last edited by DrMEMS; 05-23-2016 at 11:35 PM.
Reason: Added more info.
05-14-2016, 07:17 PM
