997 3.8 carrera s motor swap into 996 possible
#32
Rennlist Member
Incredible article, thanks for sharing!
#33
Rennlist Member
#35
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Page 47 has the whole story.
http://digital.nexsitepublishing.com...47-august-2018
http://digital.nexsitepublishing.com...47-august-2018
#36
Instructor
Agreed such a great article to read. I feel as time goes on, the 997 motor swaps will become more common. The article touched on things briefly, but it would be a great resource to have a detailed description on the hurtles you and the guys at Dundon had to work through on the build. Not a cost sheet, but something that would help encompass the timeline/ process of such a motor swap. I feel more people would do it if the land of unknowns did not exist.
#37
Thanks for the kind words....Let me see what I can do about the timeline....I can do a real high level one but maybe I will work with Charles Dundon to get a more detailed description since he is the Genius that made it happen.
#38
Instructor
#39
Charles is very open and has been providing other RL folks on even the harness mappings....Really a great guy which is why I was willing to do the project in first place with him.
#40
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#41
Advanced
I have a 997.1S 3.8 going in my 2000 996 as we speak to replace my blown engine at the track. We are also doing some mods and expect the car to be about 400-420HP. Can't wait. I am looking for Turbo/C4S radiator assemblies to deal with the additional heat load if someone has those.
fantastically written article and great story. Now let’s fix the oil pressure problem. From the pics of the underside of your engine, I suspect nothings been done (edit:, but I can’t tell, and the article never mentioned addressing it, I don’t think). I’ve had a 996 (3.6L) and now a 997.1 (3.6L), both with the same oil pressure problems, despite installing a 1.2L Mantis Deep Sump pan. That’s not enough for the street let alone the track.
Edit, from the pics it’s hard to tell.. was there a 1” Deep Sump extension added?
To test oil control and pressure on the street:
Fully warm up the oil by driving it for 15 min at or near highway speeds (takes much longer to heat up than coolant, btw.). Then find a 270 degree highway on-ramp that *continuously* curves without any straight-ish sections at all. Find a speed you can take your car at where the rpms are almost 3000 rpm or above, and have 0.5 lateral G or greater.. so for me that means taking a 30km posted on-ramp in 3rd gear at 62-ish km/hr. Put on cruise control at that speed and rpm on the approach, not the oil pressure and keep cruise control on for the entire duration of the on ramp. CHeck the oil pressure again just before you start straightening your steering wheel. You will see an oil pressure drop, unless something is done.
-Pete Koepfgen
pkoepfgen@gmail.com
Last edited by krombacher; 10-08-2018 at 10:42 PM.
#42
Rennlist Member
#43
I have a 997.1S 3.8 going in my 2000 996 as we speak to replace my blown engine at the track. We are also doing some mods and expect the car to be about 400-420HP. Can't wait. I am looking for Turbo/C4S radiator assemblies to deal with the additional heat load if someone has those.
thx
#44
lowpue,
fantastically written article and great story. Now let’s fix the oil pressure problem. From the pics of the underside of your engine, I suspect nothings been done (edit:, but I can’t tell, and the article never mentioned addressing it, I don’t think). I’ve had a 996 (3.6L) and now a 997.1 (3.6L), both with the same oil pressure problems, despite installing a 1.2L Mantis Deep Sump pan. That’s not enough for the street let alone the track.
Edit, from the pics it’s hard to tell.. was there a 1” Deep Sump extension added?
To test oil control and pressure on the street:
Fully warm up the oil by driving it for 15 min at or near highway speeds (takes much longer to heat up than coolant, btw.). Then find a 270 degree highway on-ramp that *continuously* curves without any straight-ish sections at all. Find a speed you can take your car at where the rpms are almost 3000 rpm or above, and have 0.5 lateral G or greater.. so for me that means taking a 30km posted on-ramp in 3rd gear at 62-ish km/hr. Put on cruise control at that speed and rpm on the approach, not the oil pressure and keep cruise control on for the entire duration of the on ramp. CHeck the oil pressure again just before you start straightening your steering wheel. You will see an oil pressure drop, unless something is done.
-Pete Koepfgen
pkoepfgen@gmail.com
fantastically written article and great story. Now let’s fix the oil pressure problem. From the pics of the underside of your engine, I suspect nothings been done (edit:, but I can’t tell, and the article never mentioned addressing it, I don’t think). I’ve had a 996 (3.6L) and now a 997.1 (3.6L), both with the same oil pressure problems, despite installing a 1.2L Mantis Deep Sump pan. That’s not enough for the street let alone the track.
Edit, from the pics it’s hard to tell.. was there a 1” Deep Sump extension added?
To test oil control and pressure on the street:
Fully warm up the oil by driving it for 15 min at or near highway speeds (takes much longer to heat up than coolant, btw.). Then find a 270 degree highway on-ramp that *continuously* curves without any straight-ish sections at all. Find a speed you can take your car at where the rpms are almost 3000 rpm or above, and have 0.5 lateral G or greater.. so for me that means taking a 30km posted on-ramp in 3rd gear at 62-ish km/hr. Put on cruise control at that speed and rpm on the approach, not the oil pressure and keep cruise control on for the entire duration of the on ramp. CHeck the oil pressure again just before you start straightening your steering wheel. You will see an oil pressure drop, unless something is done.
-Pete Koepfgen
pkoepfgen@gmail.com
harness was modified. Charles has been sharing the pinout to those who have asked.