TAXFREE

just a few questions, I spoke with one of the guys at LN and he suggested I drop the oil pan and look for metal shavings as I want to get a benchmark on engine life.

Let me state I'm not to concerned as my first 5,000 miles in 1 month (yeah I'm driving the Sxxt out of it) I don't see and oil loss/burn.

What are the torque spec's for the oil pan and do I need to replace a gasket?

Yes, Jake I will be buying your book when I get home from the office.

thanks in advance

Chiamac

Honestly I wouldn't drop the pan unless there was some stuff in the filter you wanted to learn more about.

Not that it's a pita, but coming from the Moto Guzzi world where our oil filters are INSIDE the pan, behind 14 bolts, dropping oil pans just isn't my idea of fun on an afternoon or weekend - unless there was more of a reason to do it. Then, and not really in this case**, those bolts are threaded into the block, so the theory is that the less you have to mess with them the longer they will last and the less they will be exposed to over tightening and stripping.

**Long day I work, I mean that the sump usually isn't dropped frequently, so some of the wear and tear on those threads isn't there. Where as with the Guzzi unless a person gets an external filter adapter, the sump needs to come off every or every other change which introduces opportunity for a lot of wear on the threads.

We should do drinks again sometime soon, and aren't you working from home?


[edit] and if it's not leaking now, and the filter is clean, it may not be a bad idea to keep the pan where it is. Not that it's anywhere close to rocket science, but if it isn't leaking and it's happy it may be best to leave it like it is rather than introduce an opportunity for it to not seal right and leak.

Byprodriver

Yes the oil pan bolts are threaded into the block then torqued to 7.5 ft/lbs.
As long as the machined sealing surfaces are spotless, (final wipe with rubbing alcohol & lint free wipe) it seals easily with many anaerobic sealants. I like the Permatex #82194 Ultra Grey.
New M96/7 owners should do this ASAP.

TAXFREE

Thanks for the replies, I'm mixed on dropping the pan but I'll check the filter first. To relatively easy process to accomplish and as much as I would like the Porsche dealer or an indie to do it for me just because of the potential oil mass, I don't trust anybody to do it as well as I would, being the **** retentive nut job that I am, i'm cursed with my German grandfather's words to do it right or keep your goddamn hands off of it.

Good idea for meeting for some more drinks, I work from home when I'm not visiting clients I have a little flexibility.

vandersmith

I dropped mine and wish I hadn't. The oil and filter was already telling enough. It didn't completely seal the first time and I really took my time trying to do a good job.

Even after installing my LN deep pan/baffle, it also didn't seal properly the first time and I wayyy overdid the work on it after the experience above.

Wouldn't want to go through that again at all. Thats a lot of friggin oil to figure out how not to waste.

Chicago Pete

It's a piece of cake job, I drop mine and have a look with every oil change.

DBJoe996

FWIW there is no gasket. As mentioned you use sealant to re-seal. Not all that difficult but somewhat messy. Dropping the oil pan should not be a common practice. Without all that fuss, change oil/filter, inspect the filter, and finger the sump (I know I know). If you feel any grit or shavings then plan on dropping the pan. Recommend an LN filter adapter and magnetic drain plug.

Chiamac

Brings up another good point, having a magnetic plug would be enough to tell what's going on in there and/or enough on it's own to clean things up. If that's clean, and the filter is clean, then no reason at all to pull the sump.

I'd even argue that cleaning all the gasket junk isn't the best for it and exposes chances to wear down the surface or scratch it.

Chiamac

Well if you need help and I'm free, or need someone to hand you beers...

It's not a big deal, and with the dealers and indies we have here I'd more than trust them to do it, and if you want to I'm not going to stop you.



I'd just check the filter first and see what if anything is going on and then take things from there.

alpine003

Use something like Dreibond or Loctite sparingly if you plan on dropping the pan. If you're not very detail oriented, leave it to the pro's or don't do it or else you may end up with something like this in your oil pickup.

Byprodriver

That shows why you are dropping sump plate ASAP

alpine003

Only if it's not virgin. Factory does not make those mistakes.

ion_berkley

FWIW, having just dropped the sump plate on my 996 a few weeks back for the first time, I'm glad I did it, it provided peace of mind that nothing was lurking in there that was a clue to something time critical.

Large debris (as shown in alpine003's photo) won't make it to the oil filter but will obstruct oil volume flow. It will also give you the opportunity to take a quick look at your oil baffle flaps to see they have not deteriorated (not seen it myself but others claim to have). Jake Raby recently posted a picture of a sump he had just opened where he found the entire oil pickup pipe missing.....

I won't do it every oil change in the future but will occasionally take a look. Whilst I was at it I changed out the drain plug for a magnetic one as others have advised you which will give you plenty reassurance every time you swap oil in the future and take a look at it. I also replaced all the sump bolts with new factory bolts...they are dirt cheap...about 30% of the ones I removed were corroded significantly on the thread outside the block (on a California car no less)...and when I compared them with the new bolts it was obvious the previous bolts were non-factory (20mm instead of 16mm).

On the advice of those way more experienced with 996's than me, I used the factory drei bond to form the new gasket with a *very* thin bead so that excess did not enter the now clean oil pan. It honestly wasn't a hard job, just get the car high enough up that you are not struggling and pay attention to torques, those are small bolts in an aluminum block so have an appropriately sized torque wrench where 7.5ftpounds is not in the lower 20% . Top tip: Home Depot concrete mixing tub is an excellent oil catch when you pull off the sump plate.

TAXFREE

Ion, do you have the part numbers for the sump bolts? I agree on the Drei Bond, I'm planning on sticking with stock everything unless they are go fast parts.

Chiamac or anyone else in Minnesota want to have a beer and oil change/oil pan get together?

ion_berkley

900-378-035-01 (Item 17 on Page 10 of the PET).
For some reason some dealers show these as Torx head in the online description but they are hex head.

Given that these are used extensively throughout the vehicle I was surprised to find non in stock anywhere in the Bay area dealers so plan a couple of days ahead accordingly. Prices also all over the place.