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Old 05-24-2016, 05:53 PM
  #121  
Schnell Gelb
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Jon,
If you explain this issue to Vertex, they may man up and give you a new bearing?
Yes, it may have been your mistake but the Instructions were not clear and they offered no advice or guidance here.A simple dimensioned sketch was all you needed or even a close-up photo.Others who use their product may/shoud need those dimensions anyway - so you re actually helping them.
If not, others will give you the generic part number for the roller bearing.It is nothing special . By comparison the RND roller bearing is a very unusual part.
Old 05-24-2016, 06:48 PM
  #122  
Slakker
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Originally Posted by Schnell Gelb
Jon, If you explain this issue to Vertex, they may man up and give you a new bearing? Yes, it may have been your mistake but the Instructions were not clear and they offered no advice or guidance here.A simple dimensioned sketch was all you needed or even a close-up photo.Others who use their product may/shoud need those dimensions anyway - so you re actually helping them. If not, others will give you the generic part number for the roller bearing.It is nothing special . By comparison the RND roller bearing is a very unusual part.
So you do recommend replacing it? My apologies to lmo000.
Old 05-24-2016, 07:08 PM
  #123  
Schnell Gelb
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You want to take a chance on a $20 bearing buried deep inside a $5k++ engine?
If it fails ,it isn't like replacing an alternator bearing.
If yours is damaged and it destroys the engine in a few thousand miles...
I don't have that kind of luck but perhaps you do.
Old 05-24-2016, 07:53 PM
  #124  
rockhouse66
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The LN instructions say to discard the bearing if it has to be removed. I think this is a little extreme as I think it depends on the fit, how it was removed, etc. Sounds like you did everything you could to allow the bearing to survive removal.

Having said that, if it were me and Vertex would sell you another bearing - even if it were $150 - I would probably not risk it. It is just too much of a PIA to go back in and replace it again even if no damage occurs.

My opinion.
Old 05-24-2016, 09:10 PM
  #125  
Slakker
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Originally Posted by Schnell Gelb
You want to take a chance on a $20 bearing buried deep inside a $5k++ engine?
Me? Heck no. I just didn't understand the issue and was asking for clarification.
Old 05-24-2016, 11:56 PM
  #126  
Flat6 Innovations
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Originally Posted by rockhouse66
The LN instructions say to discard the bearing if it has to be removed. I think this is a little extreme as I think it depends on the fit, how it was removed, etc. Sounds like you did everything you could to allow the bearing to survive removal.

Having said that, if it were me and Vertex would sell you another bearing - even if it were $150 - I would probably not risk it. It is just too much of a PIA to go back in and replace it again even if no damage occurs.

My opinion.
Not extreme at all.. When extracting the load is placed on the inner race completely, yet the outer race holds the bearing into the housing bore. Extracting the bearing will place small dents in the face of the inner and outer raceways due to this.
Old 05-25-2016, 04:28 AM
  #127  
speed rII
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Originally Posted by Flat6 Innovations
Extracting the bearing will place small dents in the face of the inner and outer raceways due to this.
Op has roller bearing, so the denting isn´t as much of a problem as in ball bearing.
Roller to outer race contact is on large flat surfaces.
If the extraction was performed with reasonable force, I see no reason not to use the bearing.
Old 05-25-2016, 09:17 AM
  #128  
Flat6 Innovations
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Originally Posted by speed rII
Op has roller bearing, so the denting isn´t as much of a problem as in ball bearing.
Roller to outer race contact is on large flat surfaces.
If the extraction was performed with reasonable force, I see no reason not to use the bearing.
I'm aware of this. I was responding to the comment made by rockhouse66 concerning the LN product reference.
Old 05-25-2016, 11:48 AM
  #129  
Imo000
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Originally Posted by Jon Mashburn
Out of curiosity, because I am far from an engineer, would that mean that I damaged it putting it in, also? I thought a lot about it and used a combination of heat on the outside and dry ice one the inside to break the loctite. I would think this would be a problem both ways. If so I need to let the company know that their standard installation practice of pressing it in with a bead of loctite red would require a replacement if immediate extraction due to installation worries weakens the part. The instructions weren't very good, though the bearing itself seems like a very well engineered part. Thanks for the input. I was hesitant to use the company based on the lack of information I could get on the outside. Everything seemed to be based on what "they" say. Biased to say the least. Ha
You are asking questions that are alarming. I suggest you find someone that knows how to install and handle bearings before this turns really ugly.

Last edited by Imo000; 05-25-2016 at 04:45 PM.
Old 05-25-2016, 03:23 PM
  #130  
wildbilly32
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After re-reading this whole thread I find one thing that went wrong, IMHO, is that Vertex early on said since this an "enthusiast forum" the conversation will be dumbed down(my words-not his). I feel that offended many. There are people on here that are much more than just "enthusiasts" and some have/had jobs/educations/experiences that qualify them to dig into the depths of technical information. I am NOT one of those people but I do know talking down to potential customers is not good business.
Old 05-29-2016, 07:47 PM
  #131  
Noz1974
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The bearing should be fine but you will need to check the thrust washer that sits behind the bearing and is part of the central assembly, this will have taken all the force on extraction as you will have pulled out the bearing by attaching to the central stud which this is part of and drawing it out, the rear thrust control is like a large thick washer with oil control grooves in it and may have been damaged, check the outer race edges of the bearing also as these run against other surfaces to control the thrust when the bearing is rotating in the shaft, the bearing does stick out by a small amount for this reason , I do agree with other advise though , double check with EPS , I'm sure they will tell you and don't risk your rebuild if you think something is not right , the cost of a replacement bearing is better than a replacement engine , just be careful



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