Clamshell stuck open!
10-08-2018, 10:38 AM
#16
Thank you for the response kaychub.
Yes I did use the emergency open using the hex tool to lift the clamshell. So If I understood correctly just replace the square drive unit kit inside the motor (using the repair kit) and get it recalibrated at the dealership?
So no need to replace the complete motor?
Yes I did use the emergency open using the hex tool to lift the clamshell. So If I understood correctly just replace the square drive unit kit inside the motor (using the repair kit) and get it recalibrated at the dealership?
So no need to replace the complete motor?
This is the kit https://www.ebay.com/p/Porsche-996-C...-on/1495796998 my car was a 997, same thing for the 997 also.
If you're not a DIY person I wouldn't get into it and you will definitely need Durmetric because it has the calibration function, but really that is all it is, you can test your motor by disconnecting it and testing with a battery to see if its working, I did that to confirm it was working. I really doubt that motor is bad though, or if you can hear the motor hum, then all it is is the kit.
Let me know if you want to DIY.
10-08-2018, 10:47 AM
#18
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I do hear the motor humming so I am pretty confident motor is alright.
I think I will DIY. But I do not have the Durametric tool so will see if I would want to invest in it now or just go to the dealership for re calibration.
I think I will DIY. But I do not have the Durametric tool so will see if I would want to invest in it now or just go to the dealership for re calibration.
10-08-2018, 01:06 PM
#19
Do you know how to get to the rear of the car to access the motor? Let me know if you need any help with that.
10-08-2018, 04:06 PM
#21
10-08-2018, 04:57 PM
#22
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Once you use the emergency open, it breaks the contact between the motor and the shaft that drives the driving mechanisms which the cables are attached to. If you are a DIY person you can probably do it, but it's not easy and you will need some guidance, its a bit finicky and you need to be careful especially when trying to calibrate the potentiometer which you have to do with a multimeter as Durametric doesn't have that function, not even the pro version which I bought.
This is the kit https://www.ebay.com/p/Porsche-996-C...-on/1495796998 my car was a 997, same thing for the 997 also.
If you're not a DIY person I wouldn't get into it and you will definitely need Durmetric because it has the calibration function, but really that is all it is, you can test your motor by disconnecting it and testing with a battery to see if its working, I did that to confirm it was working. I really doubt that motor is bad though, or if you can hear the motor hum, then all it is is the kit.
Let me know if you want to DIY.
This is the kit https://www.ebay.com/p/Porsche-996-C...-on/1495796998 my car was a 997, same thing for the 997 also.
If you're not a DIY person I wouldn't get into it and you will definitely need Durmetric because it has the calibration function, but really that is all it is, you can test your motor by disconnecting it and testing with a battery to see if its working, I did that to confirm it was working. I really doubt that motor is bad though, or if you can hear the motor hum, then all it is is the kit.
Let me know if you want to DIY.
Chad
10-08-2018, 05:18 PM
#23
Hi Kaychub. I'm glad I found this thread and it was revived recently as I'm having issues with my clamshell motor as well. My story goes, I went to put the top down after a shop replaced my air/oil separator valve. The latch disconnects above the windshield and then everything halts. The clamshell motor clicks twice but does not move. The light on the dash flashes and says there is a "timeout" of some sort. I did use the hex tool to manually open the clamshell when I got the car home to investigate further but I'm now at a loss. By using the hex tool, do I need to also buy this kit to fix the motor? And what type of battery can I use to test the motor out of the car? Just a standard car battery? Any help is much appreciated! Car is a 2001 996.
Chad
Chad
Is your soft top opening and closing with the rear hatch extended?
10-08-2018, 06:09 PM
#25
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Once you use the emergency open, you will have to change the kit. When you open the rear hatch, does the top open and close? There are potentiometers on the side of the hatch that send a signal to the cylinders to stretch out when they are engaged, so if the hatch doesn't open the roof won't go down, but if you have extended the hatch manually the roof should go up and down, if the roof is not opening and closing, you have two potential issues.
Is your soft top opening and closing with the rear hatch extended?
Is your soft top opening and closing with the rear hatch extended?
10-08-2018, 06:16 PM
#26
I just tested it and unfortunately not. With the rear hatch manually opened, the hydraulic motor begins to run for a brief second and then stops. The top does not move. I Know there are two potentiometers on the side flaps and I've found those before but are there other potentiometers for the rear hatch?
What you want to do now is open up the back below the rear hatch while it is open, let me know if you know how to do this. Check the level of the hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic pump, if the fluid is low it sometimes seizes, I have read of a few people that simply topped it up and all was well again. Once you have your roof opening and closing then you can look into fixing up the kit, you can find a link up there in this thread, just get the part number from there and order the kit from the US.
If you top up the fluid (use porsche approved or similarly rated) and it doesn't work, check for leakages, if you don't have leakages then your cylinders are good, those things are expensive!! Pumps are a cheaper and you can find a working on on ebay.
10-08-2018, 10:40 PM
#27
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The potentiometer for the rear hatch is by the motor in the picture above, the blue plastic thing, this is where the emergency open kit fits into.
What you want to do now is open up the back below the rear hatch while it is open, let me know if you know how to do this. Check the level of the hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic pump, if the fluid is low it sometimes seizes, I have read of a few people that simply topped it up and all was well again. Once you have your roof opening and closing then you can look into fixing up the kit, you can find a link up there in this thread, just get the part number from there and order the kit from the US.
If you top up the fluid (use porsche approved or similarly rated) and it doesn't work, check for leakages, if you don't have leakages then your cylinders are good, those things are expensive!! Pumps are a cheaper and you can find a working on on ebay.
What you want to do now is open up the back below the rear hatch while it is open, let me know if you know how to do this. Check the level of the hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic pump, if the fluid is low it sometimes seizes, I have read of a few people that simply topped it up and all was well again. Once you have your roof opening and closing then you can look into fixing up the kit, you can find a link up there in this thread, just get the part number from there and order the kit from the US.
If you top up the fluid (use porsche approved or similarly rated) and it doesn't work, check for leakages, if you don't have leakages then your cylinders are good, those things are expensive!! Pumps are a cheaper and you can find a working on on ebay.
Chad
