Just completed 996 DIY Rebuild!
04-23-2017, 10:35 AM
#31
Rennlist Member
And for those of us unable to attend the classes - thank you to all those who have attended and use their knowledge to help us when we ask.
And in Jake's case, damn those who have whined so much that he just gave up helping us on the Forums as much as he used to. In some difficult cases he is the only one to post the solution. Reading a few lines of promotion from a Sponsor(permitted by Rennlist rules btw) is a small price to pay for info you can't get anywhere else.
If such knowledge is no longer shared the M96 becomes even more expensive and difficult to repair.Ultimately that erodes the value of the cars, the parts support and Forum participation.
It is nuggets of info like how to confirm a Variocam solenoid is defective and to what degree that are impossible to find any other way - including the FSM.
Thank you Jake.
And in Jake's case, damn those who have whined so much that he just gave up helping us on the Forums as much as he used to. In some difficult cases he is the only one to post the solution. Reading a few lines of promotion from a Sponsor(permitted by Rennlist rules btw) is a small price to pay for info you can't get anywhere else.
If such knowledge is no longer shared the M96 becomes even more expensive and difficult to repair.Ultimately that erodes the value of the cars, the parts support and Forum participation.
It is nuggets of info like how to confirm a Variocam solenoid is defective and to what degree that are impossible to find any other way - including the FSM.
Thank you Jake.
04-23-2017, 11:09 AM
#32
Former Vendor
I came to my senses, after a couple of reminders from modern humans... I'd only be a part of something from behind the scenes, where I had zero contact with the support side, and never had to work with the end user.
I recently deleted all my email addresses and set up one new one. Yesterday I was at the Mitty at Road Atlanta and all was good till one person spotted me helping a 996 customer behind my RV when he had a CEL pop on for a loose gas cap. Within an hour the BS had begun, we packed up, and left a day early!
04-23-2017, 01:18 PM
#34
Former Vendor
09-21-2017, 02:02 AM
#35
Advanced
Thread Starter
09-21-2017, 06:51 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
09-21-2017, 01:05 PM
#37
Rennlist Member
Congratulations on a successful and frugal top end rebuild !! I had suggested the top end only repair on a few intermix conditions, but it is not a popular idea among the 996 crowd. I would not hesitate to do this own my own m96 engine, but there is always a risk in not doing a complete rebuild, IF the intermix is more oil-in-coolant and less coolant-in-oil your chances are greatly improved . Most 996 owners do not want to take that risk, congratulations again and keep us posted!
09-22-2017, 02:15 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
Congratulations on a successful and frugal top end rebuild !! I had suggested the top end only repair on a few intermix conditions, but it is not a popular idea among the 996 crowd. I would not hesitate to do this own my own m96 engine, but there is always a risk in not doing a complete rebuild, IF the intermix is more oil-in-coolant and less coolant-in-oil your chances are greatly improved . Most 996 owners do not want to take that risk, congratulations again and keep us posted!
09-22-2017, 05:57 PM
#39
Drifting
Congratulations on a successful and frugal top end rebuild !! I had suggested the top end only repair on a few intermix conditions, but it is not a popular idea among the 996 crowd. I would not hesitate to do this own my own m96 engine, but there is always a risk in not doing a complete rebuild, IF the intermix is more oil-in-coolant and less coolant-in-oil your chances are greatly improved . Most 996 owners do not want to take that risk, congratulations again and keep us posted!
In any case back then fixing cracked heads was not well know and the dealer, my Indy and Jake said I had no choice but to replace the engine. Being a home builder in the depth of the recession there was no way I could afford that then. They all said there would be bearing damage, etc. I changed the fluids and parked the car until the next spring. As those of you who followed my threads know I had the head repaired, replaced a few other items, put the engine back together, flushed the cooling system as well as I could, put everything back together and have been driving it since.
I never even replaced the hoses. I turned 92,000 mile earlier this month and the damn thing still runs strong! I have changed chain tensioner, put in a DOF ceramic IMS upgrade and misc other thing over the last nine years too. I think my oil pressure may not be what it would have been and the bearing my not go for 200,000, but you never know.
So, sure, if you have an old ntermix it would be better to rebuild the engine, and a Raby engine would be fantastic, but not everyone can, or needs to go that way.
I want to say again that Jake and Charles were very helpful when I went through this, great guys!
09-22-2017, 08:29 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
I can tell you that when I found the intermix on my car at 48,000 mile back in September of 2008 it was extensive. The coolant had so much oil in it that it was lick a thick pudding. And the oil had so much coolant in it it was like a thick chocolate shake. I don't know how long it had been going on but I have to believe it was for a while. I changed the oil and coolant but it remixed right away, although some of this was probably remenants that did not drain when I changed the fluid.
In any case back then fixing cracked heads was not well know and the dealer, my Indy and Jake said I had no choice but to replace the engine. Being a home builder in the depth of the recession there was no way I could afford that then. They all said there would be bearing damage, etc. I changed the fluids and parked the car until the next spring. As those of you who followed my threads know I had the head repaired, replaced a few other items, put the engine back together, flushed the cooling system as well as I could, put everything back together and have been driving it since.
I never even replaced the hoses. I turned 92,000 mile earlier this month and the damn thing still runs strong! I have changed chain tensioner, put in a DOF ceramic IMS upgrade and misc other thing over the last nine years too. I think my oil pressure may not be what it would have been and the bearing my not go for 200,000, but you never know.
So, sure, if you have an old ntermix it would be better to rebuild the engine, and a Raby engine would be fantastic, but not everyone can, or needs to go that way.
I want to say again that Jake and Charles were very helpful when I went through this, great guys!
In any case back then fixing cracked heads was not well know and the dealer, my Indy and Jake said I had no choice but to replace the engine. Being a home builder in the depth of the recession there was no way I could afford that then. They all said there would be bearing damage, etc. I changed the fluids and parked the car until the next spring. As those of you who followed my threads know I had the head repaired, replaced a few other items, put the engine back together, flushed the cooling system as well as I could, put everything back together and have been driving it since.
I never even replaced the hoses. I turned 92,000 mile earlier this month and the damn thing still runs strong! I have changed chain tensioner, put in a DOF ceramic IMS upgrade and misc other thing over the last nine years too. I think my oil pressure may not be what it would have been and the bearing my not go for 200,000, but you never know.
So, sure, if you have an old ntermix it would be better to rebuild the engine, and a Raby engine would be fantastic, but not everyone can, or needs to go that way.
I want to say again that Jake and Charles were very helpful when I went through this, great guys!
The oil after it gets into the cooling system can soak into the rubber hoses and soften them too much and they will swell, you did right by cleaning it quickly and thoroughly. Another tip should anyone encounter this is to use several gallons of brake cleaner through the cooling system with an external pump, nothing removes and soaks up oil like brake cleaner. It will even remove oil that has slightly soaked into the rubber. The hoses should be pliable but not soft or stiff, too dry and they will dry-rot/crack , to soft and they will swell/burst, should be like Goldie Locks... juuuust Right.
09-23-2017, 03:23 AM
#41
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That's great news !! Glad to hear your top end rebuild is doing well !! 42k and climbing is more than some have lasted right out of the Factory !! Good job.
The oil after it gets into the cooling system can soak into the rubber hoses and soften them too much and they will swell, you did right by cleaning it quickly and thoroughly. Another tip should anyone encounter this is to use several gallons of brake cleaner through the cooling system with an external pump, nothing removes and soaks up oil like brake cleaner. It will even remove oil that has slightly soaked into the rubber. The hoses should be pliable but not soft or stiff, too dry and they will dry-rot/crack , to soft and they will swell/burst, should be like Goldie Locks... juuuust Right.
The oil after it gets into the cooling system can soak into the rubber hoses and soften them too much and they will swell, you did right by cleaning it quickly and thoroughly. Another tip should anyone encounter this is to use several gallons of brake cleaner through the cooling system with an external pump, nothing removes and soaks up oil like brake cleaner. It will even remove oil that has slightly soaked into the rubber. The hoses should be pliable but not soft or stiff, too dry and they will dry-rot/crack , to soft and they will swell/burst, should be like Goldie Locks... juuuust Right.
09-23-2017, 03:59 AM
#42
Rennlist Member
09-23-2017, 11:38 PM
#43
Advanced
Thread Starter
I can tell you that when I found the intermix on my car at 48,000 mile back in September of 2008 it was extensive. The coolant had so much oil in it that it was lick a thick pudding. And the oil had so much coolant in it it was like a thick chocolate shake. I don't know how long it had been going on but I have to believe it was for a while. I changed the oil and coolant but it remixed right away, although some of this was probably remenants that did not drain when I changed the fluid.
In any case back then fixing cracked heads was not well know and the dealer, my Indy and Jake said I had no choice but to replace the engine. Being a home builder in the depth of the recession there was no way I could afford that then. They all said there would be bearing damage, etc. I changed the fluids and parked the car until the next spring. As those of you who followed my threads know I had the head repaired, replaced a few other items, put the engine back together, flushed the cooling system as well as I could, put everything back together and have been driving it since.
I never even replaced the hoses. I turned 92,000 mile earlier this month and the damn thing still runs strong! I have changed chain tensioner, put in a DOF ceramic IMS upgrade and misc other thing over the last nine years too. I think my oil pressure may not be what it would have been and the bearing my not go for 200,000, but you never know.
So, sure, if you have an old ntermix it would be better to rebuild the engine, and a Raby engine would be fantastic, but not everyone can, or needs to go that way.
I want to say again that Jake and Charles were very helpful when I went through this, great guys!
In any case back then fixing cracked heads was not well know and the dealer, my Indy and Jake said I had no choice but to replace the engine. Being a home builder in the depth of the recession there was no way I could afford that then. They all said there would be bearing damage, etc. I changed the fluids and parked the car until the next spring. As those of you who followed my threads know I had the head repaired, replaced a few other items, put the engine back together, flushed the cooling system as well as I could, put everything back together and have been driving it since.
I never even replaced the hoses. I turned 92,000 mile earlier this month and the damn thing still runs strong! I have changed chain tensioner, put in a DOF ceramic IMS upgrade and misc other thing over the last nine years too. I think my oil pressure may not be what it would have been and the bearing my not go for 200,000, but you never know.
So, sure, if you have an old ntermix it would be better to rebuild the engine, and a Raby engine would be fantastic, but not everyone can, or needs to go that way.
I want to say again that Jake and Charles were very helpful when I went through this, great guys!
Your posts from when you went through your rebuild was very helpful. I archived your post, along with many more from others who went through the same thing. My 2000 C2 Cab is now at 199190 miles. Still drives better than any car I have ever driven.
09-23-2017, 11:44 PM
#44
Advanced
Thread Starter
That's great news !! Glad to hear your top end rebuild is doing well !! 42k and climbing is more than some have lasted right out of the Factory !! Good job.
The oil after it gets into the cooling system can soak into the rubber hoses and soften them too much and they will swell, you did right by cleaning it quickly and thoroughly. Another tip should anyone encounter this is to use several gallons of brake cleaner through the cooling system with an external pump, nothing removes and soaks up oil like brake cleaner. It will even remove oil that has slightly soaked into the rubber. The hoses should be pliable but not soft or stiff, too dry and they will dry-rot/crack , to soft and they will swell/burst, should be like Goldie Locks... juuuust Right.
The oil after it gets into the cooling system can soak into the rubber hoses and soften them too much and they will swell, you did right by cleaning it quickly and thoroughly. Another tip should anyone encounter this is to use several gallons of brake cleaner through the cooling system with an external pump, nothing removes and soaks up oil like brake cleaner. It will even remove oil that has slightly soaked into the rubber. The hoses should be pliable but not soft or stiff, too dry and they will dry-rot/crack , to soft and they will swell/burst, should be like Goldie Locks... juuuust Right.
11-21-2018, 02:35 PM
#45
RRRUFF
Great to hear. Looks like my 996 decided to loose some coolant through the exhaust yesterday. Been looking at options, and none of them any good, so would like to do myself. I just got a hold of the WSM so at lest I have that documentation. Will also bring the heads away. I did call and talk with the folks at Flat6 and despite only being about an hour and half way, they will not be able to fit me into June... I am hoping I can salvage most of my engine, and just mainly focus on the heads... I think it will be quite doable if I can be that lucky.
Would it be possible to contact you and pick your brain from time to time. Just PM me and we can exchange info.
thanks -- rr
Great to hear. Looks like my 996 decided to loose some coolant through the exhaust yesterday. Been looking at options, and none of them any good, so would like to do myself. I just got a hold of the WSM so at lest I have that documentation. Will also bring the heads away. I did call and talk with the folks at Flat6 and despite only being about an hour and half way, they will not be able to fit me into June... I am hoping I can salvage most of my engine, and just mainly focus on the heads... I think it will be quite doable if I can be that lucky.
Would it be possible to contact you and pick your brain from time to time. Just PM me and we can exchange info.
thanks -- rr