blown engine
#916
Good question. What I found is FRA is indicated in the Torque app as the Long Term Fuel trim. e.g., FRA 1.06 will be indicated as +6%
The RKATs I think are indicated as Short term fuel trims but I'm not 100% since the numbers tend to go up and down quickly.
The RKATs I think are indicated as Short term fuel trims but I'm not 100% since the numbers tend to go up and down quickly.
#917
Fixed a few things...
Remember my OBC stalk went limp and Groovzilla gave me a stalk with the switch? Turns out one of the bolts of the switch fell off and the other one was very loose. Replaced the bolt. Added some loctite and it's good to go.
Bolt at the bottom of the combination switch cover
The stock lights are in a pretty sad state. Yellowed and pitted.
After restoration
Not bad huh?
Bolt at the bottom of the combination switch cover
The stock lights are in a pretty sad state. Yellowed and pitted.
After restoration
Not bad huh?
#918
Rennlist Member
Very nice. I also had good success with the Sylvania kit. I did use a little too much of the clear though and got a faint run line between "strokes". Yours look perfect.
#920
Thanks, guys. Yeah, I only used the kit and more 400 grit sandpaper which I already had. All hand wet sanded and polished about 1hr per light.
The kit comes with 400, 1000 and 2000 grits sandpapers, a surface activator, clarifying polish and uv coat. The plastic lens is very hard so I needed to use more 400 grit sandpaper than the kit supplied. The trick is to wet sand with 400 to remove the top yellowed dead layer. Figure at least half an hr for that per light. Followed by 1000 and 2000 for maybe 5min each. Then buff with the clarifying polish for a few minutes. Then the lens will still have a white haze but once you apply the uv coat, they ill become crystal clear. You can see my drivers side light still has some yellow tint on it picked up by the camera. In person both lights have no such tint.
The kit comes with 400, 1000 and 2000 grits sandpapers, a surface activator, clarifying polish and uv coat. The plastic lens is very hard so I needed to use more 400 grit sandpaper than the kit supplied. The trick is to wet sand with 400 to remove the top yellowed dead layer. Figure at least half an hr for that per light. Followed by 1000 and 2000 for maybe 5min each. Then buff with the clarifying polish for a few minutes. Then the lens will still have a white haze but once you apply the uv coat, they ill become crystal clear. You can see my drivers side light still has some yellow tint on it picked up by the camera. In person both lights have no such tint.
#921
Racer
Thread Starter
Put 280 miles on it so far. Got a set of new Continental DW's on it (great deal btw at $750 out the door) and they totally transformed the car! I guess I was driving on 8yrs old flat spot tires before.
Returned 28mpg on pure non-stop freeway drive at around 70mph. Engine feels very strong and smooth. Definitely enjoying the extra torque above 3k rpm. No leaks, no warning lights and no issues. All my Durametric numbers stay practically the same.
Returned 28mpg on pure non-stop freeway drive at around 70mph. Engine feels very strong and smooth. Definitely enjoying the extra torque above 3k rpm. No leaks, no warning lights and no issues. All my Durametric numbers stay practically the same.
Also, the computer indicated MPG reads about 0.48 MPG higher than the actual numbers (my current 997 reads 1.7 MPG high)
#922
Yeah, I saw your post and pics before and thought it was pretty amazing. Do you recall what oil you used at the time?
As I said before your old engine was really healthy and efficient for a 100k engine. Looks like my rebuilt engine is also as good. Hope it gets even better mpg after fully broken in. With the new found torque, it's difficult to keep a light foot at times though
As I said before your old engine was really healthy and efficient for a 100k engine. Looks like my rebuilt engine is also as good. Hope it gets even better mpg after fully broken in. With the new found torque, it's difficult to keep a light foot at times though
#923
Racer
Thread Starter
Yeah, I saw your post and pics before and thought it was pretty amazing. Do you recall what oil you used at the time?
As I said before your old engine was really healthy and efficient for a 100k engine. Looks like my rebuilt engine is also as good. Hope it gets even better mpg after fully broken in. With the new found torque, it's difficult to keep a light foot at times though
As I said before your old engine was really healthy and efficient for a 100k engine. Looks like my rebuilt engine is also as good. Hope it gets even better mpg after fully broken in. With the new found torque, it's difficult to keep a light foot at times though
#924
#925
Headlights before and after pics
I used the Sylvania headlight restoration kit, which gives decent results.
BEFORE. Right headlight. Note the pitting on the upper part.
AFTER. Right headlight.
BEFORE. Left headlight. Note the heavy pitting everywhere.
AFTER. Left headlight.
BEFORE. Right headlight. Note the pitting on the upper part.
AFTER. Right headlight.
BEFORE. Left headlight. Note the heavy pitting everywhere.
AFTER. Left headlight.
#928
Burning Brakes
Thanks to Ahsai for a very educational thread
This has convinced me to switch to spin on filter, filter mag and magnetic drain plug on my X51 997.1 at my next oil change
OT: does anyone know of a similar thread for metzger (GT3 or turbo) engines?
This has convinced me to switch to spin on filter, filter mag and magnetic drain plug on my X51 997.1 at my next oil change
OT: does anyone know of a similar thread for metzger (GT3 or turbo) engines?