When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Getting ready to replace front drop links as there is occasionally a high-pitched rattle from the front after it is all warmed up when going over bumps. Sounds like hand tools rattling in a small box. Drop links seem to be the most likely culprit but may not be, I know. Either way, 12 years, 74k miles, might as well even though I'm not KK...
Yes I searched but I cannot find A) any torque specs as to what to tighten the nuts to and B) if I need to use any anti-seize compound etc.
I am also assuming the car needs to be on jackstands with the wheels off or can it be done on ramps? And should the final tightening torquing be done with or without load on the wheels/suspension?
According to Bentley manual, those are 63 ftlb for the strut end and 34 ftlb on the sway bar end. No need to load them when tightening. You may need a thin wrench to counter hold it from spinning. No anti-seize specified.
I did it on a lift but jackstands on both sides with wheels off should be fine.
If you are going to replace with OEM links then no need to load suspension. If you are going with adjustable links then you need to load the suspension.
Tighten the bleep out of them at the sway bar. If not, they may eventually loosen and strip the threads making them almost impossible to remove without just cutting the bolt. Ask me how I know....
Are those adjustable? If so, make sure to tighten the crap out of the adjustable length turnbuckle, too, or it will work itself longer and the sway bar will start striking your lower control arm(s) during cornering.
I just did this a few days ago, the ones on the car where adjustable, but the ones I got weren't. I may go back to adjustable. Anyways for the top part I used an 18mm socket and and same in wrench to hold the back side, for the bottom I believe it was an 15 or 16mm with the wrench to hold the back side too. For me I had to load the suspension to get the holes to line up for the new drop links, just used a second jack I had, doesn't take much effort to lift it. That's it, your done!
Getting ready to replace front drop links as there is occasionally a high-pitched rattle from the front after it is all warmed up when going over bumps. Sounds like hand tools rattling in a small box. Drop links seem to be the most likely culprit but may not be, I know.
I am also assuming the car needs to be on jackstands with the wheels off or can it be done on ramps?
I had a sound like you are describing and I replaced the front drop links. Nothing changed and the sound is still there. Like you describe, the sound appears when the suspension is "warmed up" after driving several miles.
When I replaced mine, I had the front on jacks and tires removed. It was a very simple procedure to do, and even though it did not cure my car's problem I was happy to have replaced a wear item on my suspension.
I had my car jacked up, took a rubber hammer and hit gently under the drop links. The sound was reproducible. when I fitted the new ones, the sway bar was under tension, needed to pry the sway bar when dismantling and fitting to align the holes.
Also I fastened at the sway bar end without load. I would not do that again, will tighten with load next time. The drop link made a powerful thunk sound and adjusted itself I guess when I did the test drive. Just what my mechanic neighbour said I should do that I did not get .
I had my car jacked up, took a rubber hammer and hit gently under the drop links. The sound was reproducible. when I fitted the new ones, the sway bar was under tension, needed to pry the sway bar when dismantling and fitting to align the holes.
Also I fastened at the sway bar end without load. I would not do that again, will tighten with load next time. The drop link made a powerful thunk sound and adjusted itself I guess when I did the test drive. Just what my mechanic neighbour said I should do that I did not get .
You need to go back and check the bolts for the drop links to see if they are not loose.
Theon Goes Full Carbon Fiber With Stunning New Build
Slideshow: Built around a carbon-bodied 964 and a naturally aspirated 4.0-liter flat-six, this bespoke commission highlights how far the restomod formula has evolved.
Tuner Is Converting Porsche 911s Into Shooting Brakes
Slideshow: A Polish Porsche specialist is moving ahead with one of the most unusual 911 conversions in recent memory: a shooting brake version of the 991-generation sports car.
This Coachbuilt Creation Is A Modern Take on the Legendary Porsche 917
Slideshow: A Porsche Carrera GT has been transformed into a one-off coachbuilt machine that blends analog supercar engineering with styling inspired by the legendary 917 race cars.
Is This Convertible Cayenne A Steal, Or A Returnless Investment?
Slideshow: A heavily modified Porsche Cayenne convertible with faux wood trim and a long list of flaws recently sold at auction for surprisingly little money.
Porsche's Top 5 Most Questionable Naming Decisions
Slideshow: For a company obsessed with engineering precision, Porsche has occasionally named its cars in ways that left even loyal enthusiasts scratching their heads.
Pogea Racing's 964 Porsche 911 Reimagination Stands Out in a Crowded Field
Slideshow: Pogea Racing's latest Porsche 964 project blends carbon-fiber construction, modern chassis upgrades, and up to 500 horsepower while keeping the air-cooled 911 experience firmly analog.