First Gear Issues
05-08-2014, 05:48 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
I had the same symptom. I would release the clucth slowly and normally the car should start rolling but instead the rpm would just drop and want to stall if I didn't give it gas. It's as if my sweet spot of engagement was completely gone. This would happen here and there and would return to normal.... Last week my pressure plate failed and I just installed a new clutch kit. I feel like it was related.
Last edited by Topaz330ci; 05-09-2014 at 02:28 PM.
05-08-2014, 06:21 PM
#18
Rat Balls
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I had the same sympton. I would release the clucth slowly and normally the car should start rolling but instead the rpm would just drop and want to stall if I didn't give it gas. It's as if my sweet spot of engagement was completely gone. This would happen here and there and would return to normal.... Last week my pressure plate failed and I just installed a new clutch kit. I feel like it was related.
05-08-2014, 06:30 PM
#19
Have you checked under the car to see if either of the shifter cables has come out of the bracket on the transmission? That can cause wonky shifting.
Thats true too. Many (including me) use safety wire to help secure them. Its odd there is no burnt smell if its really slipping. It really sounds like something went wrong inside. I would want to verify what they actually replaced. Now we all have to know. Please update what happens.
05-08-2014, 06:53 PM
#20
Race Director
"Can't do" and "not recommended" are not the same thing. My indy resurfaced my DMF in-house when they did my clutch several thousand miles ago.
If I made parts for Porsches, I'd recommend against reusing the existing parts as well.
If I made parts for Porsches, I'd recommend against reusing the existing parts as well.
Sorry but you cant do (not recommended by LUK) this on the DMF. You must replace it which should have been done anyway when the clutch was replaced. Not sure of your mileage but every clutch related part should have been replaced.
Gonzo, your description sounds odd. Does everything work fine if cars on a lift? Can you post a vid of whats going on?
Gonzo, your description sounds odd. Does everything work fine if cars on a lift? Can you post a vid of whats going on?
05-09-2014, 02:30 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
I think it's an internal problem related to the pressure plate.
It would really annoy me, but I lived with it for a while as it was only occuring on and off. I drove it until something serious happened (pressure plate completely failed and wouldn't engage gears with the engine running).
New clutch kit solved that.... just a shame cause my clutch wasn't worn out at all and i've been driving manuals all my life. Just a flow in design I guess, a fluke really.
It would really annoy me, but I lived with it for a while as it was only occuring on and off. I drove it until something serious happened (pressure plate completely failed and wouldn't engage gears with the engine running).
New clutch kit solved that.... just a shame cause my clutch wasn't worn out at all and i've been driving manuals all my life. Just a flow in design I guess, a fluke really.
05-09-2014, 04:36 PM
#22
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I think it's an internal problem related to the pressure plate.
It would really annoy me, but I lived with it for a while as it was only occuring on and off. I drove it until something serious happened (pressure plate completely failed and wouldn't engage gears with the engine running).
New clutch kit solved that.... just a shame cause my clutch wasn't worn out at all and i've been driving manuals all my life. Just a flow in design I guess, a fluke really.
It would really annoy me, but I lived with it for a while as it was only occuring on and off. I drove it until something serious happened (pressure plate completely failed and wouldn't engage gears with the engine running).
New clutch kit solved that.... just a shame cause my clutch wasn't worn out at all and i've been driving manuals all my life. Just a flow in design I guess, a fluke really.
05-09-2014, 06:59 PM
#23
Gonzo, a basic kit is usually the clutch disc, release bearing, and pressure plate.
Ideally they should check and replace if needed; guide tube, clutch release lever, ball pin, sealing washer, retainer, clutch slave cylinder, and DM flywheel. Many of these things should be changed "while in there" because of the age of our cars.
I would ask for a list.
Ideally they should check and replace if needed; guide tube, clutch release lever, ball pin, sealing washer, retainer, clutch slave cylinder, and DM flywheel. Many of these things should be changed "while in there" because of the age of our cars.
I would ask for a list.
05-09-2014, 07:20 PM
#24
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Gonzo, a basic kit is usually the clutch disc, release bearing, and pressure plate.
Ideally they should check and replace if needed; guide tube, clutch release lever, ball pin, sealing washer, retainer, clutch slave cylinder, and DM flywheel. Many of these things should be changed "while in there" because of the age of our cars.
I would ask for a list.
Ideally they should check and replace if needed; guide tube, clutch release lever, ball pin, sealing washer, retainer, clutch slave cylinder, and DM flywheel. Many of these things should be changed "while in there" because of the age of our cars.
I would ask for a list.
Yes they use Mobil 1 and yes it is 15w-50. I just know someone will see that and this will turn into an oil thread.
Yes I had the IMS replaced with the clutch because it is a wear item. I just know this will turn into an IMS thread.
BTW KK...please go for a nice, extended 2 block drive this weekend
05-12-2014, 06:27 PM
#25
I just pulled the invoice (attached) and they replaced the pressure plate and release bearing and resurfaced the flywheel
Yes they use Mobil 1 and yes it is 15w-50. I just know someone will see that and this will turn into an oil thread.
Yes I had the IMS replaced with the clutch because it is a wear item. I just know this will turn into an IMS thread.
Sounds like you got it all covered. Hopefully they will find the problem soon.
05-12-2014, 06:35 PM
#26
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Did they find the problem yet? There are many more clutch system potential wear items depending on mileage/use.
Good idea. Higher viscosity is recommended, especially for hot climates like yours.
A great idea. It should be replaced with the clutch!
Sounds like you got it all covered. Hopefully they will find the problem soon.
Good idea. Higher viscosity is recommended, especially for hot climates like yours.
A great idea. It should be replaced with the clutch!
Sounds like you got it all covered. Hopefully they will find the problem soon.
05-20-2014, 12:10 AM
#27
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Finally got the car to my Indy this morning. Preliminary report is a bad clutch pedal sensor but the owner was out today and wants to confirm diagnosis. Should have details by mid morning. Will update tomorrow. Still could be the pressure plate.
05-20-2014, 02:51 AM
#28
Three Wheelin'
I guess the ECU runs a different map when the clutch is disengaged. Probably runs a lot leaner for emissions purposes and richens up when the car is pulling away.
I could see this being the problem. It'll be a nice cheap fix if it is (should be anyway).
Please update this thread when its all sorted out.
05-20-2014, 10:38 AM
#29
Glad to hear you are having it addressed. I think your "slipping" description but no burnt smell is what threw us off.
Interesting read on the delay switch and what it does:
Interesting read on the delay switch and what it does:
1. Retarding the timing reduces shift jerk which makes shifts smoother, but more importantly protects the Dual Mass Flywheel from damage.
2. During take offs, retarding the timing reduces the chances of knock/ping on clutch release. This makes it much easier to launch without stalling (the overlap I was taking about).
3. By knowing when the clutch is being depressed, the DME can widen the range of acceptability in it's misfire detection module.
Here's a quote directly from the Porsche Tech archives: "The program that evaluates misfire is complex. it has to be able to distinguish between deceleration caused by rough roads, potholes, shifting, and other non misfire causes, and deceleration caused by misfire."
4. By knowing then the car is shifted (watching the clutch), the Torque Control can reduce engine braking during high torque downshifts.
Here's another quote from the archives: "On deceleration with unacceptably high engine braking when downshifting, engine drag torque control (MSR) prevents the drive wheels from locking on a slippery road by slightly opening the throttle valve."
2. During take offs, retarding the timing reduces the chances of knock/ping on clutch release. This makes it much easier to launch without stalling (the overlap I was taking about).
3. By knowing when the clutch is being depressed, the DME can widen the range of acceptability in it's misfire detection module.
Here's a quote directly from the Porsche Tech archives: "The program that evaluates misfire is complex. it has to be able to distinguish between deceleration caused by rough roads, potholes, shifting, and other non misfire causes, and deceleration caused by misfire."
4. By knowing then the car is shifted (watching the clutch), the Torque Control can reduce engine braking during high torque downshifts.
Here's another quote from the archives: "On deceleration with unacceptably high engine braking when downshifting, engine drag torque control (MSR) prevents the drive wheels from locking on a slippery road by slightly opening the throttle valve."